Hi guys -
my 2004 Mini Cooper Base Model has been on jack stands for WAY too long and I'm simply at dead end of patience and ideas.

Decided to replace the Slave Cyl after it started getting hard to put it in 1st gear. 2nd was slightly easier.

I am on the 4th SlvCyl now. Yesterday I bled all 4 brakes before attempting the swap out; just in case the res took on air during the last attempt. reservoir stayed topped off thru whole ordeal, positive it never sucked any air in through it.. I carefully compressed the plunger with a strap and gravity bled, flipping it around and tapping it during the process. Didn't even bother bolting this one into place because it never stopped spitting air. Ran a bottle and a half of fluid through it.

So we took everything apart and even tried adding in the small rubber bushing that came in the box though it wasn't mentioned in the paperwork and not once have i seen or read one thing about this hollow rubber nipple in any of the how-too videos or forum posts. It fit perfectly in the bore hole for the fluid input so i figured maybe it's sucking air there and this was the solution. I didn't consider bothering with it before because there was no rubber bushing (that I found anyways) in the bore hole of the cyl that came off the car.

So when we tried putting the rubber bit into the cyl bore it became impossible to connect the clip that locks in the hose. we used a big clamp to the point i was afraid of breaking the cyl body casting and still couldn't get the clip to go. Even if we could I bet it was so much pressure it would have blown the clip off anyways

one weird thing that might be a clue is that the depth of the input hole on the new cyl was about 10mm deeper than the original. the rubber bushing is about 23mm. even thought about shaving the rubber clip bushing a few mm.

One more thing: in one Youtube video a guy solved this issue buy taking apart the old and new SC's and swapped the new plunger, boot and spring into the old cyl body that came off the car. It seems crazy to me but that prob is my next move if I don't hear anything back here.

So that's where things are at. I'm just lost on wth to do.
actually considered towing to a mini mechanic. something i haven't done in a decade.
save me please!

 

Just recently replaced mine and the little rubber grommet was a big issue. It stayed behind in the old cylinder and I couldn't even see it with a flashlight because everything in that tiny little well where the line connects is black and wet. Had to dig it out with a pick, then reinstall it on the line before inserting the line into the new slave cylinder. Really wanted a new one but of course you have to buy a whole new line to get it; no unique part number for it so far as I can tell. Really wish our vendors would pick up on this and start looking for a source. I'd pay $20 for that bad boy.

 

yeah this is a royal PITA. are we talking about the same rubber grommet? you were able to put this in the cylinder and still get the input line to clip in?
I've dug in the old cylinder and never found one. Could have fallen out when removed but still no sign of it anywhere...

 

I put it on the end of the plastic line, then inserted it into the cylinder. It clipped right in but I was very concerned it wouldn't seal being old and worn, and conformed to the old cylinder. Somehow it worked though.

BTW I used a power bleeder on mine, not sure if you have one too or are old schooling it with a buddy.

 

As I stated in a couple of other recent posts this month , I'm getting ready to do this brake flush and new and clutch slave procedure myself.
My brakes seem fine but I've also been having trouble shifting smoothly into gears as the car/fluid gets warm/hot.
Being my first time - As I've been reading about the horror stories/ near impossible trying to bleed the clutch slave - I decided to spend the day at the local salvage yard and R&R the clutch slaves on 2wo Mini's just to see what was in store for me before I attempt to do it on my own Mini.
I paid close attention when removing the clutch slave line to be sure that little rubber grommet was still on the end of the hydraulic line when I pulled it off. The grommet stayed in place on the line (and not in the slave), on both Mini's when I managed to separate them by gently fist ****ing it off with some concerted effort.
As long as the grommet was in place on the hydraulic line, I had no trouble reinserting it into the slave and the clip seated perfectly.
I'm hoping this will be the case when I attempt it on my own car.

I'll be following your this discussion to see how you fair.
Best of luck.

 

Thanks both @Daftlad and @Here2Go - This is helpful.

For a slight bit more clarity, and I'm 98% sure i know the answer, but the grommet goes directly in the cylinder right? I took off this aluminum coupler and the grommet fits in there too but there was definitely nothing in there when I took it off. so my car's clutch was fine for years without a grommet in the coupler but it kinda seems like something should be in there...

It's looking like i need to find a way to get the grommet into the cylinder... anyone else have trouble getting it to clip in? Any tricks if so? I was thinking of shaving it down... I dont know what else to do. Had it compressed down as much as we could get and it still blew the line out.

So I bought a power bleeder and used it at first but wanted to rule that out as the problem and starting having a friend help me. It's slower but also less room for mistakes. Also the power bleeder i got off Amazon kind of sucks. the lines are white so you can't really see the bubbles (how stupid right?) and the pressure gauge either doesn't work or it's not getting fully pressurized. Waited too long to send back this junk.

 

I hope I understand your question correctly - The little rubber grommet as shown in your pic above; should firstly slip on to the end of the brake line end, and then plugs into the clutch slave.
On the 2wo Mini's that I messed around with over the weekend; I had no trouble with disassembly with (R&R'ing) the brake line or rubber grommet - removing or inserting back into the slave inlet.
But to you question: the grommet goes on the end of the brake line first.
Again, I hope I didn't misunderstand the question.

FWIW: I'm wondering if it may have something to do with the clutch slave you bought? I assume you're installing a new one?
I haven't yet done the procedure on my own car yet (raining), but I bought 2wo slaves one from FCPEuro (Febi), and one from Pelican (FTE).
We'll see if I have any similar problems with install with either one.

 

yup You understood the question... I couldn't get the grommet to go over the brake line when i tried before. didn't even seem close to fitting. but i will take a whack at it today and report back! thanks

 

this is the best i can do with a picture of the grommet and the fluid line. There is NO WAY this thing will go over the line. They are basically the same size. this gets back to something @Daftlad said - Can you post a picture of the grommet you used, that you'd pay $20 for? or post a link to it? thinking this has to be the wrong one...

 

WTH??? I am no expert but - I have never seen that kind of a 'brake line to clutch slave' on any of the 1st Gen Mini's that I've worked on.
It's no wonder you've been stumped! -- So am I!
Again - I'm certainly no expert .
Perhaps your '04 R50 Mini is and maybe consistent with a "facelift" model?

EDIT: Then again I've only worked on 1st Gen R53's and not R50.

 

not sure at all. never heard of Facelift either. i could provide the VIN, is that something i could find out with it? There's been a few weird things with this one.
I had a long time figuring out that the alternator made for this isn't what is suggested in parts catalogues or anywhere. it was a nightmare and the higher output on that I was sold burned out my Power Steering pump. That wasn't any fun and not cheap. It's def a 2004. this mini has had me living in an infinite loop of perplextion .

 

From what I've learned (w/regards to an R53) - 2004 1st Gen Minis with build date before July 2004 are considered pre-facelift.
Thus facelift models with build dates from July 2004 and on, had some upgrades/improvements made. You can find your build date on the driver's side door jam.
@deepgrey has a better understanding of these cars and the experience with his own R50. Maybe he will chime in and can offer more valid insight.

BTW: There was a power steering recall for our 1st Gen models. Although none of mine never went out; I received several recall notices within 8 years(?) and had the dealer replace the power steering unit and hoses at least 3 or 4 times for free.

 

just checked. mine is a 03/04
Im not sure about any recalls - ive only owned it for the last 4-5 years -
Would love any insight i can find on this!
Miss driving that little buggy.

 

Question: Does it appear that the previous owner or a mechanic may have modified the end of that hydraulic line with that aluminum nipple/connector?
Does it appear that you might be able to remove it? - I'm not suggesting that you do at this point. At least not until a more seasoned contributor has a definitive, plausible answer as to whether or not that aluminum part should be there.
How does your old and new slave look by comparison and could you upload a picture of them - preferably a side by side comparison?
Still naggingly curious to me.

If the R50's are concurrent with the R53 models with respect to pre and facelift years - I would venture a guess and say your '04 is a pre-facelift (given that the build is March 2004).

I've read that other NAM members here have posted that they have (at least up until 2018), recently had the dealer honor their PS pumps recall for free. I think if you google the Mini PS recall or run your VIN it may show whether or not the recall had been redeemed (PS replaced).

 

Just tried bleeding it again and I think there might be a leak where the master cyl is attached to that big round thing. really tough to say becaseu there's been so much spillage but I've been trying to clean it up. would adding dye (so i can do a black light check) be okay for the brake fluid?

As far as that connector and previous modifications i truly have no idea. they didn't give me any records unfortunately.
Tried shaving down a grommet and getting it to clip in but it's so mashed that i think it's flattened in there and no fluid will go through. leaning towards the grommet no belonging in there at this point.

Picture: new one on the left; took apart when thinking about swapping new guts to old casing - the SC on the car now is the same as the one on the left. as i said earlier i've bought a couple of them thinking it might be faulty. the exterior dimensions and shape appear to be the same / oh and in an above post i said that the input bore-hole was deeper in the old one but that's not true upon double check. must have fumbled the calipers.

Thinking the PS recall ship has sailed since i've already swapped it out and currently having no issues so I'll let a sleeping dog lie i suppose.

 

Dunno how much it's worth to you, but back when the recall first came out, they were reimbursing people if they could provide receipts from the replacement. I had already replaced mine, but MINI sent me a check for the $700 I'd spent on a new pump.

 

I'm not sure about or don't think adding any foreign liquids or dye to the hydraulic fluid is a good idea unless there is a specific product made available for diagnosing hydraulic fluid leaks in this particular situation.

In response to the the highlighted point in your quote above - No - that rubber grommet is probably NOT supposed to go on the hydraulic input line or in the slave for the R50. As for the aluminum connector in question on the end of the hydraulic line that connects/inserts into the slave; Yep - that's the way the R50s hydraulic line is for connecting to the clutch slave cylinder as seen in the pic below taken from Pelican Parts Tech Article - Clutch and Slave Replacement. (Scroll down to fig.#23 - but read the entire tech article. Good to know stuff there).


Clutch slave attachment for 2004 Mini Cooper R50. - EDIT: Ignore the green arrows. The aluminum connector on the hydraulic line is what I meant to focus.

I would imagine that the new clutch slaves you purchased, as shown in your pic should work/fit.
I hope this helps a bit - If nothing else; sheds some light on some of the questions.

EDIT: BTW, Although the The Bentley Service manual speaks briefly about the clutch slave on an R50 it does not go into specific detail or show any pictures for the R50 hydraulic line or clutch slave.
At the time of it's publication; Bentley must've assumed everyone had a computer and should Google for further information - Sheeesh?!

 

@Here2Go , sorry I missed your ping yesterday. That is indeed a pre-facelift slave cylinder, and it appears Mini used the same one for both the Midlands and the 6-speed Getrag. My trans and slave are completely different though.

I haven't had to deal with mine yet, so I don't know that I can be of much help unfortunately. I've actually never really worked on a hydraulic clutch. My van has a rod linkage, and my Audi has a cable.

I can drop the diagram here from RealOEM though, not that it will be of much help.

 

@deepgrey -Your input IS and has ALWAYS been helpful.
Not my thread - but regardless.
Thank you!

 

Wow, Yeah, in that case I will check with them!

 

Thank you both @deepgrey and @Here2Go - so much helpful material here. Will keep at it and report back.

 

Just read that article (which is GREAT btw) and trying to understand something... here's a quote from it...

"Replacing the clutch slave cylinder on the R55/R56/R57 cars is similar to the R50/R52/R53 models, except that you do not need to pre-bleed the unit by compressing the cylinder. Also, the bleeder port has been changed to a plastic valve..."

The plastic bleeder valve is mentioned for the r,55,56,57 - but the SC i bought from autozone has the metal bleeder valve, and is made of diecast metal... (see the pic i posted a few messages above) - the one that came off the car, that worked fine for years, is the one described in the article...

Could there be some fundamental difference between the two designs that's ******* me?... It seems that the plastic SC's don't need that little rubber grommet that has been such a point of contention - but 99% there wasn't one when i originally pulled the SC off. I'm wondering if i should try the bleeding procedure mentioned for the 55-57 since it seems mine has the same equipment. Also thinking I need to get the other style of SC before trying again... still in the weeds here i guess.

 

Well, according to the Bentley - the 1st Gen pre-facelift, R50 or R53, use the same clutch slave and procedure when bleeding is the same. My only other thought with respect to the Auto zone brand/purchased clutch slave makes me rather dubious to their actual fit and quality. Not to suggest that you made a poor choice - just my experience in the past buying parts for my German brand cars. With my Mini - I've had better success/parts/experience when purchasing from FCPEuro, ECS Tuning, or Pelican. Again, that's just my preferrence.
Still axiously waiting and hoping you get it all sorted out.
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Thanks @Here2Go - I decided to order a new Master Brake Cylinder and another SC, this one looks to be the same manufacturer of the one that was one there. - I know i'm just "throwing money" at more parts but kinda getting desperate to get this over with and it always just feels good to know you have new parts... haha.
And i'm Just seeing your reply- so I didn't order from where you said but if i run into more probs i'll return everything and then go on your recommendations.
parts should be here in a few days and i'll take another whack at it.
Thanks for hanging in there with me! Can't imagine how people did this type of stuff pre-internet-

 

I’ll echo @Here2Go ’s sentiment about some of the chain parts store stuff. Sometimes it’s fine, but I’ve definitely had some experiences where you just fight with it for hours and finally give up and buy the OEM or OES part, which then fits immediately with no problems.