howdy, i'm working on a 2002 r53

i have looked and searched and whatnot...i am familiar with the mushroom strut tower problem and the solution is reinforcing the strut tower. there seem to be two basic options:
1) billet aluminum over the top of the strut tower
2) steel plates between the strut mount and the strut tower

aside from a nominal increase in height equal to the thickness of the plate for option 2, is there a mechanical advantage to one or the other? price isn't really an issue as they're all reasonably priced.

is it personal preference?

 

I read somewhere on the board that you lose a little bit of suspension adjustability when using option #2. Other than that I think the differences are mostly installation complexity, as #1 can be added without removing the struts and #2 requires it. I went with UTIs for my car, since I was replacing the struts at the same time and am going for a stock look.

 

Personal preference for me:
I did what I refer to as the "slam sandwich" (#1 + #2).
Cravenspeed Under tower plates and M7 upper reinforcement plates.
My Mini is lowered via lowering springs, 1.5 in the front. 1" rear.
The CS under plates are approx 1/8" thick so my 17" wheels still fill in very nicely with 9/16" - 5/8" space between tire & inside trim.

Tower reinforcement plates; whether option #1 or #2 are the first mod/accessory that should be done on these cars IMO.

 

^^^ Similarly, retained the Helix adjustable camber plates installed beneath when I changed out coil springs but added M7 plates above (without crossbar between towers).

 

I probably should have mentioned... I'm replacing the shocks/struts and mounts. There will be no additional work for me with either approach.

 

I think there is an advantage to the plate going below the mount as it will distribute the forces more effectively across the entire tower.

I would suggest that the best bang for your buck would be to add the Ireland fixed camber plates. You get effective strut tower reinforcement AND improved camber.

 

Most do the sandwich. I have the top plates. If you change out the suspension to coilovers then its easy to do the plates. Most plates on the underside will change ride height a hair. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-hamburg-...7400-0070~ham/

https://www.ecstuning.com/News/Mini_..._Plates_28248/

 

I prefer the JCW strut tower brace with H&R camber plates, m7 under body support and strut tower braces.

 

these are what i ended up getting - ebay specials.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/200573253803

 

i looked at strut tower braces. that m7 one is in sections, so i struggle to believe it's as stiff as a single piece would be. the same with ones i saw that used a single nut and bolt to connect to the bases. if i could have found one that was the top plate + a one piece strut bar for a reasonable price i'd have considered it.

in the end, i just not inclined to spend much more than necessary on the car. i don't buy junk parts, but i'm still focusing on all the deferred maintenance before getting into more upgrades than i've already done.

 

Go back to maybe 9th or 10th grade science and or physics class, I think that that's about the time I recall...

To "properly" support a given panel, the support "needs" to come from the "invading" (loading) side of the panel (shock tower).
For the BEST...bend protection -
A support plate (see post #9 above) NEEDS...to be sandwiched between the panel (Tower) and the load (shock/spring).

A plate, of ANY sort, above the shock tower, will only slightly help, as the metal (tower) starts to bend, and the shock mount studs start to contact the thick aluminum plate, but by then...the top of the tower is...already bent.

The BEST...thing to do, is buy a pair of camber adjusting plates. This will, both provide the ability to adjust the front suspension camber, it will also provide the "under" tower strength that you seek.

Mike

 

https://www.gtt.uk.com/product/mini-...op-strutbrace/

Although its not a "reasonable" price, it is the best strut bar available for Super coops.

I will be putting under towers on mine as well.

 

Every now and then I ogle that strut brace. Then I come to my senses and remind myself that it doesn’t clear my battery box.

 

^^^ Agreed, often mods are "eye candy" which admittedly appeal whereas simpler less-flashy / less-costly solutions work just as well.

 

IF...you want the tower supported "correctly", there is only ONE option.
Support the tower from where the load comes from...BELOW the OEM tower materai .

Large heavy, FULL contact upper supports are sorta ok, but they MUST have full material contact, the the stud holes must be tight around the three stude to so any good.
But, the upper support is still...second best.

Engineering wise !

Mike