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Hey all. The previous owner said that the key just needs a new battery. I looked online found the CR2032 battery, replaced it and when opening my key I found DL2032. Weird but I tried the CR one and it didn’t work. I used even a diff battery from the batch I purchased and still nothing. I went to a watch store and used their cr2032 and it still didn’t work. Not sure what the issue is and really not wanting to go to the dealer for this type of issue. Any help is appreciated! Thanks.
This also happened to me.
It could just be the rubber unlock button on the case. Sometimes they get hard or wear out.
If it is a 2wo button key Fob - You can try this:
Split the Fob. Leave the battery in along with the circuit board. Go out to the car with both halves. Hold the key blade portion next to the portion that holds the battery/circuit board. On the circuit board there are 2wo little buttons. Gently, with your fingernail depress the little button that unlocks the door.
Would be helpful to clarify ('cus I don't remember) whether your current car is pre-FL or FL (perhaps add that to sig line). FL keyfobs like mine don't use conventional "coin style" battery but instead, one like imaged below. My 2nd key fob eventually obtained from the original owner was dead and wouldn't recharge during normal driving or by using other techniques posted elsewhere, so I bought a 2-pack and did the de-solder/re-solder thing as likewise outlined on the web. Those batteries are fairly cheap (I paid $14 for 2 last year with a spare ready if ever needed)...
Would be helpful to clarify ('cus I don't remember) whether your current car is pre-FL or FL (perhaps add that to sig line). FL keyfobs like mine don't use conventional "coin style" battery but instead, one like imaged below. My 2nd key fob eventually obtained from the original owner was dead and wouldn't recharge during normal driving or by using other techniques posted elsewhere, so I bought a 2-pack and did the de-solder/re-solder thing as likewise outlined on the web. Those batteries are fairly cheap (I paid $14 for 2 last year with a spare ready if ever needed)...
what do you mean FL? Does my key charge while driving? I have an r53
Your mention of CR2032 battery replacement indicates your R53 is pre-FL ("Face Lift") whereas 2005+ 1st Gen FL models utilize keys with the soldered-in battery style shown above. With the later style, that battery charges while driving whereas earlier style had to be replaced periodically. My spare key hadn't been used by the original owner, thus wouldn't charge until soldered-in battery replacement.
what do you mean FL? Does my key charge while driving? I have an r53
"FL" = Face-Lift.
R53 Mini's built from 2003 to July 2004 are regarded as Pre Face-Lift. During /after July of 2004 there were some updates made.
I have an '04 R53 pre Facel-Lift (build date October 3, 2003). Therefore - I have the earlier model egg shaped, simple 2 button key fob with the non chargeable, replaceable coin battery.
"FL" = Face-Lift.
R53 Mini's built from 2003 to July 2004 are regarded as Pre Face-Lift. During /after July of 2004 there were some updates made.
I have an R53 pre Facel-Lift (build date October 3, 2003). Therefore - I have the earlier model egg shaped, simple 2 button key fob with the non chargeable, replaceable coin battery.
the previous owner gave me 4 keys. Two egg shell ones and two other ones I’ll send the pics of them. Would the recharge work if I use the FL key? I don’t understand how they expected the FL keys to work. Can anyone explain?
Sorry I think I may have confused the matter for you. The PL and the FL fobs are both egg shaped.
Early pre face-lift key fob. (Non rechargeable but replaceable coin battery)
I understand. So what do you suppose I do. I would like not to go to the dealer cause they're gonna charge a lot, but if that's what I have to do than I guess I have to go.
Your post #1 didn't state what that specific key isn't doing, i.e., remote function doesn't work or that plus won't start the car. If simply remote functions, I suspect that ithe key was "dead" long enough to require being re-initialized (aka "registered" or "paired"). 1st Gen 02-04 2-button remotes still need that done but the process isn't as simply as subsequent 3-button style on late 2004+ FL models, which can eisily be done inside the car with the doors closed using an easy few step process. I had to do that on mine after soldered-in battery replacement, however I won't outline those steps here since you have the earlier 2-button style remote. Lots of forum topics on NAM (plus videos elsewhere) on these old cars but this one might be helpful (noting the content posted by forum member 04_Indi_Mini_S): More Key programming help needed!
Thought I would return back here and state what information I have gathered. Depending on whether your mini is Pre Facelift or Facelift, the key module will be behind the digital clock. That can go bad and prevent the keys signal to be read by the car. The car used to have leaks from the sunroof which not only damaged the radio, but I assume also damaged this key module. You can remove the digital clock by literally tugging the clock from the side closes to the front windshield. Once removed, you will see a black rectangular shaped box mounted to the roof of the car. One torx screw on one side and a hose clip on the other. Weird way to mount but whatever. I was not able to remove the torx screw because there is absolutely no room to access that bolt. I ended up just leaving it and unplugging the wire and plugging it in to my other module that i got from my other mini. That unfortunately did not fix the problem. I messaged Adriancl and he mentioned that the key might need resyncing. He will help me tomorrow. Will update you guys!
