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Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum though I've had my Cooper (r53) for a couple years now. I have always found great results and past threads on here from Google when I've looked up questions so thank you everyone who has answered. I'm faced with a really silly issue and can't find info elsewhere so I thought I'd ask. The Cooper died after idling for a little bit, so I ran the code which turned out to be P0107 which is for the map sensor. I bought the sensor and went to install it only to find that this "10 minute" job is going to become a couple hour job due to wiring that is right above it that will not move and the O2 sensor clip that is covering the other screw that I need to get to. Also, there's a bunch of ice around the tmap sensor (near the intercooler) so I'm expecting that'll go out soon as well. I guess my question I have for you all is how does one remove an old map sensor and install a new one with all the wiring and stuff in the way. Thanks!
Unfortunately you'll just have to unclip the wires from the plastic clips and move them aside, you should be able to get a Torx bit down to remove the sensor no problem but I suggest abit of penetrating lube and tap the torx bit into the screws too to seat it well abd tap them loose. They can strip pretty easily depending on the condition of the engine..
swapping both sensors should take you 15min total... don't be intimidated, these engines look and get a bad rap , they're imo one of the easier engines I've ever worked on..
btw , try using massair flow sensor cleaner and a very soft qtip to get aby built up residue or oil off the tiny element that's in the bottom of the map sensor , that's what's reads the air as it flows over it and they tend to fould very often I've knowticed.
+1 For what Adam suggests.
Just un-clip and gently move the wires out of the way to get to the small torx.
I am assuming it is cold; so take care not break the clip(s). They've already been compromised due to oil, heat and age.
I would also advise using a "extend-a-magnet" or stuffing a piece of cloth underneath the working area during extraction and re-install. When working in those deep recesses of the engine compartment - Dropping one of those (or any) screws - 'will never be seen again.
I unfortunately stripped the torx head on 2 of those tiny screws but was lucky enough to have a couple of phillips head machine screws on hand to replace all of them.
Cleaning the MAP & TMAP sensors yielded no resolve to my issue. I ultimately had to replace them both with bonafide OEM sensors. Pretty pricey for the genuine... but I've read that they are the most reliable opposed to the lesser cost of generics.
Best of luck!
Reply Deleted [by [utag=188602]Here2Go ] out of consideration for the OP's question. The reply was not conducive to the topic of this discussion.
BTW: Happy Holidays to each and all!
Oh no no no no no no. NOT SO FAST! I've been wondering this as well; and now that I know I'm far from alone on this board being curious as to how / why DEVO was right, dammit we demand a stand alone post on the subject, so get to it already!
Last edited by Daftlad; Dec 23, 2022 at 03:35 PM.
Reason: Because DEVO was right dammit!
About to do this myself on my wife's R50. Yeah there is a lot of tubing in the way. Nothing seems very move-able. Do I just need to jam my hands down past all the tubes and stuff, unclip the MAP wiring, undo the two Torx, and pull the sensor out? Any other tabs or anything that need to be released, any removal of any other part that would make it easier on the R50? Not sure if it's different on the R53 discussed above and oddly there seem to be no other forum posts or videos in existence about R50 MAP....
Like this screw here, it seems so close to the throttle or whatever that is to the right of it that I don't know what kind of driver would be able to get to it?
On the wire clip, I can't tell what I am supposed to be doing to release it since once my hand is down there I can't see what I'm doing and I'm afraid of breaking the clip or the plug:
I would assume I'd be lifting the flared end of the clip away from the plug but it didn't seem to do anything and I was afraid of breaking something....
I thought replacing a part that is under the hood and just has two screws and a plug would be easy, whoops!
I don't have an R50 so I'm not sure what those large hoses would be - BUT - I would suggest spaying some PB Blaster or WD40 on those small hex screws and trying to remove those first. I wouldn't recommend attempting to unclip the wiring plug first (unless you have to to gain access to those screws). Once you undo those two screws, it will all come out with the wiring plug. You can then see better as how that wiring clip attaches to the MAP. It can be stuck on there so try to be gentle. That tang/clip is going to be brittle.
I'm sure someone here with an R50 will chime in with some good advice.
Best of luck.
Yes, I managed to get the screws out, work the whole sensor free of that mess, and pull the wiring clip out. Naturally then putting the new sensor in place, which is incredibly difficult with all the stuff in the way of my hands, tools, and ability to see what I'm doing, one of the screws fell from my supposedly magnetic bit, never to be seen again. Now to find a replacement screw that fits....
You might try a telescoping magnet tool to poke down below, to see if you can pick up that screw. Requires a lot of luck. It may have fallen onto the subframe…
Didn't really look like airbox or battery box was the problem, but at any rate I got a long magnetic Torx bit and got it done. But now the car starts and dies, or revs really high, or stalls. EML and engine service light on. I did read somewhere (can't find it, now) that after changing MAP it may take the engine a bit to relearn adaptations with the new sensor (all Greek to me), but I'm not sure exactly what that entails, it does not seem safely drivable as is. Others have said OEM is the only way to go for MAP, which I did not do....
edit - well, hell. Seems like I got the wrong part. I got this:
when I should have bought this:
Part # on the second is the correct one matching the realOEM # despite the location description, should have verified before!
Didn't really look like airbox or battery box was the problem, but at any rate I got a long magnetic Torx bit and got it done. But now the car starts and dies, or revs really high, or stalls. EML and engine service light on. I did read somewhere (can't find it, now) that after changing MAP it may take the engine a bit to relearn adaptations with the new sensor (all Greek to me), but I'm not sure exactly what that entails, it does not seem safely drivable as is. Others have said OEM is the only way to go for MAP, which I did not do....
edit - well, hell. Seems like I got the wrong part. I got this:
when I should have bought this:
Regardless of the location description, the part # ...648 seems to be the correct one and matches the part on ECS.
what a coincidence - I was just about to reply about being sure you get the right MAP sensor before your edit. The TMAP & MAP sensors are not interchangeable. When I started having hiccups with my R53, I determined that it might be the T/or MAP gone bad (since cleaning them had no effect). I went cheap on Amazon. The cheap sensors worked to resolve the issue for about 3days and the car started acting up with related issues. I bit the bullet and purchased OEM at a pretty penny - $168/ea (IIRC). My Mini never had that problem again. It's been about 3 years now.
Glad to hear you were able to recover/replace that tiny torx screw.
