When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
A little over 30 days ago I purchase an 04 r53 MC40 from a seller on Facebook. They had it for only 4 months and had planned to tow it behind their RV but things didn't work out and they listed it for sale. They didn't have any history with the car and at 133k miles the clutch was heavy, it was dripping oil, and in need of some TLC.
I am grateful for this forum as a great repository of knowledge which of course proved invaluable during this project!
The original plan was to replace the tires and clutch but one thing led to another and the scope of the project grew considerably. I initially dropped the subframe and transmission but followed that by removing the engine. Over the past 30 days, I completed the following work on the car.
New Tires
New brake rotors, pads, front calipers, front brake lines, brake pad wear sensors
New clutch, pressure plate and Dual Mass flywheel, throwout bearing and guide(Luk )
New clutch slave cylinder
New gaskets, seals all around engine (except head gasket)
Timing chain kit with tensioner, timing chain cover gasket, seal
Engine main seal
Transmission main seal
Serpentine Belt & new tensioner assembly
New lower engine mount
New cv axles (boots were torn and leaking grease)
Upgraded Xenon headlights to newer versionrac
New Borla Exhaust
Bilstein struts and shocks
Rebuilt front end - new ball joints and bushings
Rack & Pinion from local salvage yard (lower miles and replaced due to someone before me using a vicegrip to adjust the alignment and marring rack end arms
Serviced Supercharger
Replaced water pump
Replaced side view mirrors - originals covers were glued/epoxied on and falling off.
Lessons Learned:
Much easier to pull the engine and transmission as a package
Disconnect main wiring harness at frame ground, fuse box, and large round plug vs. disconnecting everthing from the engine
Put subframe back in before engine / transmission as a packag
with engine on hoist and before connecting mounts to the car frame - install slave cylinder and check the clutch operation
install wiring harness to engine before reinstalling engine/transmission to car (then complete by connecting harness to frame ground, fuse box, and large round plug
make certain cv shafts are fully seating into transmission (check multiple times, especially after installing axle into steering kunckle and torquing new axle nut
rest the lower engine heat shield on the starter before installing engine/transmission - was much easier than trying to slide the heat shield behind the engine after installation
Purchase a pair of longer bolts to help align exhaust manifold to engine - next time I will put studs in on the engine side and use nuts
F.Y.I. -- The proper MC40 decals and magnetic door numbers are available at FireStorm Graphix online. The typeface used on the Way version's license plate decal is not correct. And BTW, if you're a stickler for original details those are not the correct headlights.
I am curious why you state that next time you would replace the subframe prior to installing the engine/transmission.
When I replaced my engine earlier this year, I had to leave the subframe installed so I could push the car in and out of the shop each day I worked on it. I found installing the engine/transmission back in the car with the subframe in place was quite the hassle, although it probably would have been easier if I had left the front crank pulley, idler pulley and belt tensioner off. As it was, I ended up breaking my shift cable bracket on the transmission and had to replace that.
Nice thread... thanks for taking time to post this up with pics and descriptions...
You have the ability in your own shop, with your own clock, to a better job than a dealer or indy on a deadline for the work.... Cleaning things as you go and not taking/making shortcuts.
F.Y.I. -- The proper MC40 decals and magnetic door numbers are available at FireStorm Graphix online. The typeface used on the Way version's license plate decal is not correct. And BTW, if you're a stickler for original details those are not the correct headlights.
I am looking for the original Rally Lights and unfortunately, the PO cut the plugs from the factory wiring kit so I have to address that as well as a short somewhere in the circuit. I will check out Firestorm Graphix as well! I also have to find what serial number my car is
Last edited by mmesa 005; Sep 26, 2022 at 05:42 PM.
I am curious why you state that next time you would replace the subframe prior to installing the engine/transmission.
When I replaced my engine earlier this year, I had to leave the subframe installed so I could push the car in and out of the shop each day I worked on it. I found installing the engine/transmission back in the car with the subframe in place was quite the hassle, although it probably would have been easier if I had left the front crank pulley, idler pulley and belt tensioner off. As it was, I ended up breaking my shift cable bracket on the transmission and had to replace that.
With the transmission/engine mount off sliding the engine/transmission in as a package was fairly smooth. I understand the pulley / serpentine belt assy takes up some space, however, I went in on a slight angle, transmission first, then slid the engine side in. My other motivation was to have the power steering reservoir in place before installing the engine and to connect the steering up without crawling under the car. Either way it works, that was my logic
Nice thread... thanks for taking time to post this up with pics and descriptions...
You have the ability in your own shop, with your own clock, to a better job than a dealer or indy on a deadline for the work.... Cleaning things as you go and not taking/making shortcuts.
Great to see that MC40 is getting the attention it deserves. If you can’t find a pair of factory MINI rally lights, the OEM was Wipac and were still reasonably priced the last time I checked. You would still have to find a pair of MINI light covers and a factory switch though. There was also a factory extension harness to relocate the switch next to the handbrake for only $3, but I’m not sure if they’re still available.
Regarding the edition number, I’m pretty sure the factory never documented the numbers and corresponding VIN’s so unless you find the MC40 interior plate, or a previous owner documented it online somewhere, you’ll probably be out of luck. There used to be a MC40.com registry website, but it’s closed now. Maybe you can get some info using the way back machine: https://archive.org/web/
There’s also some MC40 registry threads threads here on NAM.
Great to see that MC40 is getting the attention it deserves. If you can’t find a pair of factory MINI rally lights, the OEM was Wipac and were still reasonably priced the last time I checked. You would still have to find a pair of MINI light covers and a factory switch though. There was also a factory extension harness to relocate the switch next to the handbrake for only $3, but I’m not sure if they’re still available.
Regarding the edition number, I’m pretty sure the factory never documented the numbers and corresponding VIN’s so unless you find the MC40 interior plate, or a previous owner documented it online somewhere, you’ll probably be out of luck. There used to be a MC40.com registry website, but it’s closed now. Maybe you can get some info using the way back machine: https://archive.org/web/
There’s also some MC40 registry threads threads here on NAM.
Really impressive work in very little time. Well done! And thanks for sharing your lessons learned -- that's very helpful.
Getting the rally lights working was one of the more challenging parts of my R53 rescue so far. In the end, the relay was bad. I only realized that after I'd tested every other possible cause (thinking that the relay was unlikely to fail).
Really impressive work in very little time. Well done! And thanks for sharing your lessons learned -- that's very helpful.
Getting the rally lights working was one of the more challenging parts of my R53 rescue so far. In the end, the relay was bad. I only realized that after I'd tested every other possible cause (thinking that the relay was unlikely to fail).
The relay appears to be the culprit with my system as well. And of course, it is an expensive relay.
@mmesa 005 Looks great! Always nice seeing an R53 get the treatment they deserve.
Side note, what Quickjack are you using? Been looking into getting something like that for the garage for a while now, would love to get some feedback.
@mmesa 005 Looks great! Always nice seeing an R53 get the treatment they deserve.
Side note, what Quickjack are you using? Been looking into getting something like that for the garage for a while now, would love to get some feedback.
I purchased the 7000TLX last year while it was on sale on Amazon. I have used it countless times for all our vehicles and highly recommend it. I considered a full-size lift, however, I wanted the portability of this unit along with the ability to store it when not in use. There is minimal assembly required, installing fittings for the hydraulic hoses, add hydraulic fluid, bleed the air out of the lines, and you are good to go. The instructions are straightforward to follow. You will need to purchase adapters to handle the pinch welds on vehicles such as the Cooper. I also have the truck/tall vehicle adapters which I purchased on Amazon as well. I don't think you will be disappointed with the QuickJack.
I purchased the 7000TLX last year while it was on sale on Amazon. I have used it countless times for all our vehicles and highly recommend it. I considered a full-size lift, however, I wanted the portability of this unit along with the ability to store it when not in use. There is minimal assembly required, installing fittings for the hydraulic hoses, add hydraulic fluid, bleed the air out of the lines, and you are good to go. The instructions are straightforward to follow. You will need to purchase adapters to handle the pinch welds on vehicles such as the Cooper. I also have the truck/tall vehicle adapters which I purchased on Amazon as well. I don't think you will be disappointed with the QuickJack.
I just want to double-check as am about to buy one myself but I would like to get something larger than the 5000lb model that will work well for more than just my R53..... So the 7000TLX is indeed what you have under your MC40 in the photos? It isn't too long or anything like that? And you mention the adapters for the pinch welds, but don't all of the Mini's have the lift pads or do those not work with these quick jacks?
