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I am contemplating in installing a methanol kit on my r53 in the future for help with cooling intake Temps . From what I gather via info on the board, the aquamist hfs system is the better one due to the failsafe and way it operates.
it seems that howerton engineering had a pretty solid system which was well made for the mini and it came pretty well set up with the proper adjustments done to the control boards, etc. Since howerton no longer deals with this I am curious if I order the kit directly from aquamist will I have a hard time dialing in the proper adjustments and will i have to buy separate parts to make the system pretty equal to what howerton sold ?
No you will be ok. I run one and have for years but since people in general sh-----it! on my educational information I dont come here much anymore as its like talking to kids.
No you will be ok. I run one and have for years but since people in general sh-----it! on my educational information I dont come here much anymore as its like talking to kids.
Thanks Devil Z for the reply. That is good to know. I know from reading past posts and seeing some pics of the systems that howerton did a great job in selling the r53 kit quite ready out of the box. I see some nice lighted cases for the methanol tank ,etc and it seemed that the control boards were sent out dialed in .
my main worry was if I order directly from aquamist that some parts would be missing for the r53 or I would have to purchase separate . Seems like they only have the basic tanks now online .
sorry to hear about people not taking the advice into consideration . I understand it can be frustrating . Unfortunately these forums need people with the skills and knowledge to keep helping newbies like myself .
There is no car specific part. Likely need to solder two pads ad form a bridge for single jet application unless you tell him to do it for you. AS you know And as Howerton and the rest of us knew that nothing else was even worth purchasing and it gets even better with a link down the road if the desire is there. It's like owning some RTR POS Traxxas vs a Team Losi Kit in Rc terms.
There is no car specific part. Likely need to solder two pads ad form a bridge for single jet application unless you tell him to do it for you. AS you know And as Howerton and the rest of us knew that nothing else was even worth purchasing and it gets even better with a link down the road if the desire is there. It's like owning some RTR POS Traxxas vs a Team Losi Kit in Rc terms.
I'll be ordering an HFS3 system next month, want to buy it outright instead of putting on credit card so have been saving pennies.
Good news is that the US dollar is strong against the UK pound right now,
at today's rate including FedX priority delivery it is a grand total of:
£654.57 = $737.51
A bit more pricey as compared to Snow/AEM systems etc.,
but very well worth the extra expense in my opinion.
To save money I had originally wanted to go with the more basic HFS2 because I won't be tuning specific for meth and intend to just use for lower IAT's, but Aquamist never responded to my inquiries (the HFS2 option is not available on their site so I emailed them to ask about it)...
"HFS-2 is designed for non-critical application where a failsafe is not needed. A dash switch is provided instead. The user can disable the system and reduce the manifold pressure to wastegate pressure if needed"
...but now I'm liking the HFS3 because that gauge is pretty damn cool, so have decided to go whole hog with it.
Last month did order a 5L baffled tank from them and it was promptly delivered with a quickness:
My original plan was to use that tank and conceal it behind an Orranje GP rear panel replica which will be eventually installed, but have since changed course and decided just to use the driver side headlight washer tank instead.
Their tank is quite nice with the baffles though, and could be easily fitted up with a fabricated panel to emulate the old Howerton set-up if that's the sort of thing you're after.
[QUOTE=Oldboy Speedwell;4633413]I'll be ordering an HFS3 system next month, want to buy it outright instead of putting on credit card so have been saving pennies.
Good news is that the US dollar is strong against the UK pound right now,
at today's rate including FedX priority delivery it is a grand total of:
£654.57 = $737.51
A bit more pricey as compared to Snow/AEM systems etc.,
but very well worth the extra expense in my opinion.
To save money I had originally wanted to go with the more basic HFS2 because I won't be tuning specific for meth and intend to just use for lower IAT's, but Aquamist never responded to my inquiries (the HFS2 option is not available on their site so I emailed them to ask about it)...
"HFS-2 is designed for non-critical application where a failsafe is not needed. A dash switch is provided instead. The user can disable the system and reduce the manifold pressure to wastegate pressure if needed"
...but now I'm liking the HFS3 because that gauge is pretty damn cool, so have decided to go whole hog with it.
Last month did order a 5L baffled tank from them and it was promptly delivered with a quickness:
My original plan was to use that tank and conceal it behind an Orranje GP rear panel replica which will be eventually installed, but have since changed course and decided just to use the driver side headlight washer tank instead.
Their tank is quite nice with the baffles though, and could be easily fitted up with a fabricated panel to emulate the old Howerton set-up if that's the sort of thing you're
Thanks for the info . Sounds like you are well on your way to getting your system . Yes odly I did notice that on the aquamist site there is no mention of the hfs-2. Seems that the system you have chosen ( hfs-3) is the next best one if you not going to tune for methanol , but would still like the failsafe. For my application I believe the hfs 4 would probably be a bit overkill,but then again u never know if down the road I may change my mind and have it tuned . ( I am just looking for cooling iat Temps.
What is the difference on the hfs3 and hfs4 kit? Just more advanced controller i take ?
As for the tank, yes I was hoping to get one of those howerton ones in an enclosure which would house the tank. It had led light to view the level . At this point no biggy , I may just have to settle for one along the lines of yours and tuck it away somewhere .
Great plan the both of you. It is nice piece of mind that the system is forward thinking as well and not in the generic way that other systems are. If either of you needs digital input and pwm maps down the line for a Link or Ecu master fire away.
Today I saw 37f IAT at the top of 4th @7400rpm. So good times. I use a 70/30 mix I have a RODI system and make 100 gallons of water a day for my reef tank hobby so thats a plus! TRy not to use tap or pigmented water as over time it dries up and leaves crap behind. My RODI is .001 TDS so its as pure as it gets.
Great plan the both of you. It is nice piece of mind that the system is forward thinking as well and not in the generic way that other systems are. If either of you needs digital input and pwm maps down the line for a Link or Ecu master fire away.
Today I saw 37f IAT at the top of 4th @7400rpm. So good times. I use a 70/30 mix I have a RODI system and make 100 gallons of water a day for my reef tank hobby so thats a plus! TRy not to use tap or pigmented water as over time it dries up and leaves crap behind. My RODI is .001 TDS so its as pure as it gets.
Thanks DEVIL Z, yes from my research online to me this system seems like a better option . I like the fact that I will be using for cooling , but if I decide to tune for meth in future I will feel confortable that the system will be able to run properly .
Thank you for the offer on the digital.input for the link or ecu master , but so far I think I will only be running the facelift ecu . I may need some guidance with the adjusting of the control boards , but I won't know until I tinker with it . Hopefully it isn't too bad .
Also thanks for the heads up on the water mixture . Yes I have heard that u have to be very carefull with the water u put in there for mixture . I may just be buying the premix stuff to be safe as I shouldn't be running too much of it . Impressive that you u use the rodi system and know exactly the type of water u are mixing . So would distilled water be pure enough if we wanted to make our own mixture ?
I'm really dumb at electronics and it is a little intimidating for me, so I appreciate your offer of technical assistance if needed --- you've been fettling and fine tuning with the Aquamist for a good while it seems, so your knowledge and experience is valuable for those of us just now entering the learning curve of how to best set it up.
Originally Posted by Ngtphantom
What is the difference on the hfs3 and hfs4 kit? Just more advanced controller i take ?
From what I've read on various forums, the HFS4 is better suited for direct injection engines, but there may be other benefits too I dunno?
Thanks DEVIL Z, yes from my research online to me this system seems like a better option . I like the fact that I will be using for cooling , but if I decide to tune for meth in future I will feel confortable that the system will be able to run properly .
Thank you for the offer on the digital.input for the link or ecu master , but so far I think I will only be running the facelift ecu . I may need some guidance with the adjusting of the control boards , but I won't know until I tinker with it . Hopefully it isn't too bad .
Also thanks for the heads up on the water mixture . Yes I have heard that u have to be very careful with the water u put in there for mixture . I may just be buying the premix stuff to be safe as I shouldn't be running too much of it . Impressive that you u use the rodi system and know exactly the type of water u are mixing . So would distilled water be pure enough if we wanted to make our own mixture ?
Lot of that is purely because of my 300 gallon mixed reef. Knowing the quality of water being used is the biggest thing people over look and any dissolved organic material or solids in the water produce phosphates which in turn casue alage blooms etc. So ) tds water is key. Just so happens it works well with this application too. A simple 3 stage rodi system from bulk reef supply is around 200 bucks and money well spent not only for this but drinking water etc and waste water can be used for plants as its high in nutrients and mineral run off.
When you get the Aquamist system in hand you immediately see where the cost is in its components. Once you open that box you will get the overwhelm piece of mind not only in quality but how it works. Now I used the factory head light washer tank and hid the pump inside the air box under the filter. I was a little late for Jeffs awesome tanks he did with the lights etc. There was some sort of falling out between Richard and Jeff. tuning it is fairly straightforward and all the safties in place is why its the best of the best. But the more water you run the smaller the jet should be. I am using a .6mm with my water/meth combo and its perfect for me and takes my IAT under ambient most days. So everyday every pull is like a crisp fall day.
Quick shot of my 120 gallon system before the upgrade to the 8 foot tank. Enjoy
That looks awesome, I could easily enjoy just laying back and getting lost in the currents watching the fish, perhaps accompanied with some good drone music like early Stars of the Lid or something, chillout in the liquid zen of fluid motion, just seeing the static pic gives me a sort of naturalized calmness.
And,
thanks for the pointer on .6mm jet size as that is something I was curious about too and trying to figure out how to configure my order because default jet sizes sent are 0.8, 0.9, and 1.0mm unless specified otherwise, so I was thinking to ask for .6, .7, and .8 instead.
Lot of that is purely because of my 300 gallon mixed reef. Knowing the quality of water being used is the biggest thing people over look and any dissolved organic material or solids in the water produce phosphates which in turn casue alage blooms etc. So ) tds water is key. Just so happens it works well with this application too. A simple 3 stage rodi system from bulk reef supply is around 200 bucks and money well spent not only for this but drinking water etc and waste water can be used for plants as its high in nutrients and mineral run off.
When you get the Aquamist system in hand you immediately see where the cost is in its components. Once you open that box you will get the overwhelm piece of mind not only in quality but how it works. Now I used the factory head light washer tank and hid the pump inside the air box under the filter. I was a little late for Jeffs awesome tanks he did with the lights etc. There was some sort of falling out between Richard and Jeff. tuning it is fairly straightforward and all the safties in place is why its the best of the best. But the more water you run the smaller the jet should be. I am using a .6mm with my water/meth combo and its perfect for me and takes my IAT under ambient most days. So everyday every pull is like a crisp fall day.
Quick shot of my 120 gallon system before the upgrade to the 8 foot tank. Enjoy
Thanks for the great info and tips on the water system. It definetely pays to be using the water as pure as it can be in the system . I remember helping my buddy replace his cooling /antifreeze once and replacing some of his old cooling piping and boy were we shocked with all the calcium and crud buildup from him.using tap water in his.mixture . Def not good for small nozzles and system components.
Thanks for the nozzle size tip. I will definetely keep that in mind. Those iat of 37 u got are definetely amazing . Will definetely make the car run happier . I am a little wary of some of the premises if they really have the methanol content stated on the bottle labels. Some claim 50/50 , but who knows.
Wow that is an amazing looking tank! Quite mesmerizing. It shows that You definetely have had a lot of work go into it .
That looks awesome, I could easily enjoy just laying back and getting lost in the currents watching the fish, perhaps accompanied with some good drone music like early Stars of the Lid or something, chillout in the liquid zen of fluid motion, just seeing the static pic gives me a sort of naturalized calmness.
Oldboy Speedwell description above of the tank is perfect! Lol
thanks guys. It took lots of playing around to get the affect I was after. To rich and the stock dme will start messing with trims to much water also bad thing. But from experience some water is needed as it flashes off faster and removes heat with it. But Play around. Try to find a source local to you that either carries VP products in bulk or has raw methanol. I got lucky and found a local propane place that actually has a 1,000 gallon tank of meth on a trailer they bring to the local atv park. Long story short I get pure meth for like 3 bucks a gallon and being several large track jugs with me to fill up. ITs cheaper over the long run. I know exactly what I am putting into the system and it doesn't stain my lines pink or blue.
Just pkay around and have fun. Remember the failsafe settings need to be adjusted when you mess with jets. Their system is based on flow and how much of it etc. So you can adjust the WL and WH for 6 bars adrop to a smaller jet and now the flow is less hence the need to change it. Just remember that the Pots used in the system are only rated to have full lock to lock cycles 200 times or less before they start to degrade. Dont read to much into that other than dont mess around turning the ***** like a little kid lol. Once your dialed in there is no need to really ever mess with it. If flow decreases you either changed jets or water meth mixture as they flow different. I left a good chunk of info I think on their own forums. Howeretons site can be viewed via way back machine and the old RMW forums are a wealth I mean a WEALTH of knowledge once you get past the cirtcle jerk Jan fest.
thanks guys. It took lots of playing around to get the affect I was after. To rich and the stock dme will start messing with trims to much water also bad thing. But from experience some water is needed as it flashes off faster and removes heat with it. But Play around. Try to find a source local to you that either carries VP products in bulk or has raw methanol. I got lucky and found a local propane place that actually has a 1,000 gallon tank of meth on a trailer they bring to the local atv park. Long story short I get pure meth for like 3 bucks a gallon and being several large track jugs with me to fill up. ITs cheaper over the long run. I know exactly what I am putting into the system and it doesn't stain my lines pink or blue.
Just pkay around and have fun. Remember the failsafe settings need to be adjusted when you mess with jets. Their system is based on flow and how much of it etc. So you can adjust the WL and WH for 6 bars adrop to a smaller jet and now the flow is less hence the need to change it. Just remember that the Pots used in the system are only rated to have full lock to lock cycles 200 times or less before they start to degrade. Dont read to much into that other than dont mess around turning the ***** like a little kid lol. Once your dialed in there is no need to really ever mess with it. If flow decreases you either changed jets or water meth mixture as they flow different. I left a good chunk of info I think on their own forums. Howeretons site can be viewed via way back machine and the old RMW forums are a wealth I mean a WEALTH of knowledge once you get past the cirtcle jerk Jan fest.
Thanks again Devil Z for the info and tips. Will definetely try to dig up some old info on those forums when i have some time.
It doesnt pay to use meth to make power when injecting it. To many variables to go wrong. Now running the car on meth I have experience on but the lines need to be flused after each use and its not worth it on a r53 to run meth as a fuel. But injecting it for chemical intercooling is a win for sure. Mine is setups now as a 3d table with my link so the Link does everything and the gauge still works as the failsafe as intended. But I have a 3d map setup with the link for mine. Only down fall to my setup is the small capicity with the headlight washer. I go threw that tank in about a day when I am having fun and try to actually leave it as low as I can each day do to evap. You cant really seal the system and you wouldnt want to either do to pressure build up. But the larger tanks have atmo vent valves to let off pressure. So much stuff to talk about that other kits dont account for or other drivers on the forums but can only talk so much sense into some people. Long term i am likely to get a tank in the back next to the surge tank going in for fuel this winter. e85 is awesome but comes with its own hand full of issues like left hand turns and sucking the stock basket dry while fuel is sloshing to other sides but I digress.
