R50/53 R53 getrag 6spd housing swap
R53 getrag 6spd housing swap
First, I did some searching and couldn't find anything on this particular topic, if it's been repeated elsewhere please disregard and any help pointing in the right direction would be appreciated.
I have a 2005 r53, believe the input shaft bearing in the transmission is going bad, a friend has an LSD transmission that I'd like to buy, but the slave cylinder mounting tab is broken off, and I want to know how difficult it would be to swap the housing from my transmission to his transmission?
I just did the clutch recently, and it looks as if I could almost unbolt the bell housing from the rest of the casing, and literally just pull it off and swap the housings, though I'm not sure how the shift linkage attaches inside the transmission.
Basically just wondering if it's worth it to try and swap the housings or to find an alternate way to mount the slave cylinder to the broken housing on his transmission, if anyone has gone through this and knows which way is 'easier'.
Thanks in advance!
I have a 2005 r53, believe the input shaft bearing in the transmission is going bad, a friend has an LSD transmission that I'd like to buy, but the slave cylinder mounting tab is broken off, and I want to know how difficult it would be to swap the housing from my transmission to his transmission?
I just did the clutch recently, and it looks as if I could almost unbolt the bell housing from the rest of the casing, and literally just pull it off and swap the housings, though I'm not sure how the shift linkage attaches inside the transmission.
Basically just wondering if it's worth it to try and swap the housings or to find an alternate way to mount the slave cylinder to the broken housing on his transmission, if anyone has gone through this and knows which way is 'easier'.
Thanks in advance!
I would try fixing the mounting hole. Chemical metal possibly? Or find a shop that can weld something in place. I'm sure this is covered on Google somewhere because it seems quite common being at the bottom of the box.
I have found a few posts about trying to have the bracket welded but it's cast aluminum and I live in a small town, there's a bracket to fix it but it's only available in the UK and would cost quite a bit of money to have it shipped over here, and since I already have a transmission with a good bracket I wanted to see what the effort was in swapping the housing versus having to have it fixed or buying the part from overseas. If the labor is minimal and swapping the housing then I'll go that route.
Huh? I know the housings are the same, I'm not worried about the gasket or anything, I'm just wondering if anyone else has swapped housings of the entire transmission, and how feasible it is to do that versus trying to have it fixed.
Best thing would be to get the broken tab gearbox on the bench and have a good look. As for gaskets when putting back together, if there are none, make sure to use anaerobic sealer.
I'm sure it can be done, it went together lol
I'm sure it can be done, it went together lol
Sorry, its just an old doube check, if the gasket fits, the bolts will too. Didn't mean to be odd.
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Basically my train of thought as well, just wasn't sure if anyone had actually attempted this. Time to start studying diagrams and see what all is involved.
I understand what you meant now. But I also know that I'm swapping the same transmission, the only difference is the LSD, so I knew that the housings would fit I just wasn't sure how difficult the job itself was.
Yeah, I thought about that too, but my buddy has a good LSD transmission for 400 bucks. The only downside is the broken tab for the slave cylinder, and $400 is about what it would cost to buy a bearing kit +time, etc. I should have mentioned that in my original post, sorry about that.
Why not both?
Swapping the gearbox internals to another gearbox is fairly simple, once you have the end-case off. Just make sure you hold the gear stacks together as best as you can, so you don't accidentally get the order for the gears, needle bearings, synchros mixed up.
But, you would want to check the shimming of the diff between the cases. You may not need new shims, but it's worth checking.
You'd also want to do bearings and seals, since you have it all apart. I'd also do a throw-out bearing too.
Then, with the broken tab case, take it to a welder and have them weld on a bracket. Now you have a backup.
Swapping the gearbox internals to another gearbox is fairly simple, once you have the end-case off. Just make sure you hold the gear stacks together as best as you can, so you don't accidentally get the order for the gears, needle bearings, synchros mixed up.
But, you would want to check the shimming of the diff between the cases. You may not need new shims, but it's worth checking.
You'd also want to do bearings and seals, since you have it all apart. I'd also do a throw-out bearing too.
Then, with the broken tab case, take it to a welder and have them weld on a bracket. Now you have a backup.
The only issue I can see is the gear selector part. If you Google r53 gear selector shaft, it would appear the whole thing unbolts and slides out, other then that I would assume it's unbolt the old and kn with the new. But as I said before, seal it with anaerobic sealer, not normal stuff, and good old redline MTL
Close to same boat.
So here we are. My 2006 MCS trans output bearing on driver side is toast. Threw the drive axle out at 80mph thanksgiving.
found a low mile BKE to swap. LSD
old one not LSD. Driver side CV is different. What else is different? Anyone know? Will post progress. But expect I'm not the first.
found a low mile BKE to swap. LSD
old one not LSD. Driver side CV is different. What else is different? Anyone know? Will post progress. But expect I'm not the first.
Why not both?
Swapping the gearbox internals to another gearbox is fairly simple, once you have the end-case off. Just make sure you hold the gear stacks together as best as you can, so you don't accidentally get the order for the gears, needle bearings, synchros mixed up.
But, you would want to check the shimming of the diff between the cases. You may not need new shims, but it's worth checking.
You'd also want to do bearings and seals, since you have it all apart. I'd also do a throw-out bearing too.
Then, with the broken tab case, take it to a welder and have them weld on a bracket. Now you have a backup.
Swapping the gearbox internals to another gearbox is fairly simple, once you have the end-case off. Just make sure you hold the gear stacks together as best as you can, so you don't accidentally get the order for the gears, needle bearings, synchros mixed up.
But, you would want to check the shimming of the diff between the cases. You may not need new shims, but it's worth checking.
You'd also want to do bearings and seals, since you have it all apart. I'd also do a throw-out bearing too.
Then, with the broken tab case, take it to a welder and have them weld on a bracket. Now you have a backup.
The only issue I can see is the gear selector part. If you Google r53 gear selector shaft, it would appear the whole thing unbolts and slides out, other then that I would assume it's unbolt the old and kn with the new. But as I said before, seal it with anaerobic sealer, not normal stuff, and good old redline MTL


Thank you, I was going to comment the same.
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