I just replaced the old fuel filter with a new Hengst E489KPD461 filter from RockAuto. Replaced all the o-rings, two tiny ones and the large skinny one. Plus the big rubber flange, and seemed like everything seated back in correctly, but it won’t start.

I primed the pump and could hear it engage 5-6 times, but when I went to start the car it just cranked. Tried a few more times before giving up.

Maybe I need the genuine Mini kit?

 

When I changed the fuel filter in mine it took forever for it to prime. I cycled the key several times and I thought I had done something wrong too. Give it a couple more cranks and it should run.

 

Bleed off the rail. Depress the Schrader valve while a mate cycles the key. Repeat till clear fuel issues forth. Stuff a bunch of towels around it.
The valve is at end of injector rail. Under the intercooler.

 

Okay to try and start while the intercooler is off?

 

We let it crank for at least 10-15 seconds, did it 3 times but still no start. Before cranking I turned key to the second position, and could hear the pump engage. I guess I'll try again.

 

Yes, just see if she barks. I think there are PCv and Throttle body bits and bobs that may prohibit actual running. Maybe not, I haven't had one in pieces in a while and cant rightly recall. You should hear the pump load up when she primes. This is why the valve is there.

 

If there's no fuel out of the valve, then perhaps the O-rings are bad or causing loss of pressure on the filter side?

 

Yes, if no fuel comes out then take the filter back out and fix whatever it is you boogered up. LOL.

 

You don't have the top of the fuel pump completely seated. It's very difficult to twist it completely closed. Go back and make sure that it's twisted totally shut (part #4 in the attached link). If not, your car will not start. It may take you a few tries before you're successful.
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=16_0506

 

I had to re-use the old large o-ring - the replacement one was not of the correct size - take it out and compare.

 

The old one was thrown out mistakenly, so there's no going back. The new one did seem the same just eyeballing it.

I'll try to re-seat it again tomorrow, it started snowing and had gotten frustrated plus the fumes were very strong. Come to think of it the top of the housing did go on a bit too easily, it took a tremendous amount of force to get it off and it was very easy to stick it back in.

The link shows the fuel pump assembly I believe, I was working on the filter side.

 

this 👆

 

Not sure if you sorted this yet or not but I had the same problem with mine. Aftermarket O-ring didn't fit so I reused the original. I made 3 attempts with the new O-ring before I gave up and fished the original out of the trash. Luckily the collectors hadn't come yet so I still had that option. If you don't have it then put some grease on the new O-ring so it doesn't peel off when you put the lid back on. It was a massive PITA when I did mine. I was able to get it to run and drive with grease on the seal but it still wept gas. Mine is my DD so not being able to drive it wasn't an option. Sourcing a new OEM seal may be your only option if you cant get the one you have to work.

 

^^^THIS. Aftermarket O-ring is the issue. I've learned the hard way to keep all my part until I'm absolutely sure I don't need them. And then, I sometimes still keep them.
It's the o-ring. I had same issue and went back and forth with it thinking it could NOT possibly be the o-ring. I put back the old one and it worked perfectly.

 

Unfortunately it still won't start after swapping the filter and seals for the OEM part, not sure what the problem is. I'm wondering if the whole filter housing assembly needs replacing, so I had it towed to the shop and they're looking at possibly the fuel pressure regulator or some other valve.

Car was at a little below half a tank, I read some other posts mentioning that it should be filled to 3/4 to start after a filter change. Would that be worth trying?

 

I doubt the fuel level has anything to do with it. Did you try to bleed the air from the fuel rail?
I changed my filter below when it was below 1/2 a tank and had no issues.

 

When I replaced my fuel filter, I had no start until I bled air from the fuel rail -- I think it was ChiefM who suggested it to me too. Only takes a few seconds. Maybe the shop can try that before heading down more expensive paths.

 

I'll have to confirm with them tomorrow to see if they bled off the rail, but I have a feeling they tried that already since they mentioned changing the FPR.

 

You are in a rough spot. Who did the work, you or a shop? I did the filter twice. First time with an aftermarket kit - Large O ring issue - which was solved by using the old OE one. Second time, I used a Mini kit. Getting the sealing ring on was not fun the second time, but if it does not go together correctly, he won't run. I can't tell you why the o-ring matters in there, but it impacts pressure. If this was a running functional car before, then get a kit from Mini, and start all over. I don't know your DIY skill level, but this is a finicky, picky job. Not hard, but very frustrating if you get stuck. I don't think the FPR is the issue.

 

I changed the filter the first time, with the Hengst filter and seal. A week before the fuel pump was replaced by the same shop, car broke down on me 100 miles from home and was running great after the new pump.

So I figured I would just change the filter considering the pump had died, so the filter must be pretty nasty. There was this little tiny metal spring at the bottom of the filter housing that came loose (almost like a spacer), but I was able to get it back on the metal pin that it was attached to.

After it wouldn’t start I decided to have it towed to the same shop - I ordered the genuine MINI/BMW filter kit and they installed it, they told me it still won’t start which has them now looking at the fuel pressure regulator.

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...el-filter.html DIY linked. Make sure everything was installed correctly. Also on restart it can take a while for the fuel to work its way up the fuel rail and line. dmath has it correct also, their is a little valve up front.

Most of the time its the top gasket because it does no compress enough if new.

 

Be sure and use a silicone based lubricant, not oil based, when installing the o-ring. Oil based lubricants will degrade the o-ring over time. Silicone based lubricants can be found at Lowe's or Home Depot in the plumbing section.

 

Can the Mini dealer sell just the OEM O-ring?

 

The OEM filter and O-rings were put on according to the shop, but it's still not running.

When I was working on it this metal clip circled in red popped off from the bottom of the fuel filter housing and had bent a little, but I was able to get it back on, could this little metal contact having fallen off caused problems?

 

Not sure if this will be any help but there is a lot of info here and guys having the same sort of problems.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...nge-mcs-5.html

Mod Mini has a great video that I followed... may not help the current problem but for those who land here looking for good instructions.... it will help.