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Drivetrain :: DIY fuel filter change MCS

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Drivetrain :: DIY fuel filter change MCS

  #101  
Old 06-01-2011, 06:21 AM
mjlwriter
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For Me, a Difficut DIY

This took all I had as an amateur DIY'er. Finally got 'er done, but needed the help of my gifted wife, who was able to interpret instructions that I was overlooking. Not to mention that most steps were just plain difficult.

No more energy to type any further. If you are tall and don't know how to take the front passenger seat out, you are sunk. You will be twisted up like a pretzel when you are through.

My opinion: If you have the $500 or so to spend to have the pros do it, go that route. It will be money well spent.
 

Last edited by mjlwriter; 06-01-2011 at 06:44 AM.
  #102  
Old 06-10-2011, 12:18 PM
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A few questions as I am about to try to tackle this:
-any issues with the tank being only half a quarter empty, meaning almost full?
-isn't there a fuse we can pull for the pump to let the car crank/run until it dies to relieve pressure?
-which end spits gas? Is it the line you are disconnecting, the pump, or both?
 
  #103  
Old 06-10-2011, 12:45 PM
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- Not an issue if low 1/4 of a tank. that should be plenty. You will need to prime the pump afterward by turning ignition from Off to "2" five or six times. Don't get too low, though, as that can have an effect, I've heard.
- I pulled the gas tank cap to relieve pressure, not the fuse. No major gas leaked (very minimal, in fact). More comes out when remove old filter...
- What would conceivably spurt gas would be the end of the line you are disconnecting. You are not accessing the pump, which is on the other side of the back seat.
 
  #104  
Old 06-11-2011, 10:53 AM
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Just got done swapping this out. Kinda screwed myself because I had the guts to pull the pump out further and that caused the floater(?) to detach. I had to fish it out of the tank and attach it to the pump. So far so good. Primed it about 10 times, stumbled a bit at startup but no check engine light at all. Car feels like it got some power back. It accelerates smoother and no longer bogs down from a stop. It used to do that especially with the AC on. Very nice and noticeable difference, I definitely recommend this.
The car sat undriven for a while and barely a drop came out of the fuel line. I didn't put the whole thing back together because I took it for a spin to make sure everything is in order ... only to realize I did not put the metal screw ring back, so now I have to unplug the fuel line again, haha.
I ordered my kit off Autoparts Warehouse. Even though the filter numbers are identical on both the OEM and aftermarket, sure enough I got the "diesel only" gaskets. I used them anyway. Has anyone had issues with them? I posted in the dedicated thread as well just in case. No way am I taking this thing apart again.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ere-wrong.html
The old gasket that went around the pump housing was blue and somewhat softer than the gasket I got out of this kit.

Just like everyone elses, the fuel in my pump was black and so was the filter.
06 Mini S with 76K miles on it.
 

Last edited by fishbone; 06-11-2011 at 11:00 AM.
  #105  
Old 06-16-2011, 03:35 PM
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Pretty easy to do. Followed the directions exactly. But now my car won't start
 
  #106  
Old 06-16-2011, 06:02 PM
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1. Essential to prime the pump by turning key to last position before ignition. Do this 6 times. That is: Off to position 2. Off to position 2. Off to position 2. Etc. Etc.
2. In order to be successful, have half a tank of fuel. Don't ask me why, as significantly less than this should be enough to prime the pump. But, as they say, just do it.
3. If any of the o-rings or the gasket are not seated properly or have rolled off all together (happened to me) then obviously #1 and #2 above won't work. This is absolutely key for obvious reasons.
4. So, what I suggest is that you take apart your sending unit and make sure you follow all of your instructions and make sure nothing is too hard to put back together (i.e., top portion of sending unit or the metal ring). This would be an indication that a ring or gasket is not seated right or has jumped off. I lost my large o-ring initially when it jumped off into the sending unit. Make sure you grease up the rings with vaseline.

If you're having to disconnect the gas line again (meaning you're going to try disassembling/reassembling) and have already experienced fuel spillage, try removing and leaving off the gas cap before the disconnection to dissipate fuel line pressure.

Good luck!

Originally Posted by PhishyBrewer View Post
Pretty easy to do. Followed the directions exactly. But now my car won't start
 

Last edited by mjlwriter; 06-16-2011 at 06:08 PM.
  #107  
Old 06-16-2011, 06:50 PM
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^Thank you! I'll give it a shot in the morning.
 
  #108  
Old 06-17-2011, 06:42 PM
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So no issues as of yet with the "diesel only" gaskets I take it.
 
  #109  
Old 06-18-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by fishbone View Post
So no issues as of yet with the "diesel only" gaskets I take it.
Apparently not.
 
  #110  
Old 06-25-2011, 09:21 AM
ThePritchett
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I can NOT get the top off the sender unit.

I've removed the retainer ring with no issues, though it was quite tight. Now I'm stuck.

I've used my belt as a strap wrench to hold on to the bottom and a pair of channel locks fits into the sections on the top. Turning with all my might yields nothing!

I'm scared of tweeking the unit around too much and damaging some of the dangly bits.

I'm ready to button this thing back up and call it a day.
 
  #111  
Old 06-25-2011, 10:16 AM
ThePritchett
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Originally Posted by ThePritchett View Post
I can NOT get the top off the sender unit.

GOT IT! Rigged up some leverage and applied it to the channel locks... my entire hand hurts from trying to hold the lower part of the unit.

The fuel in my sender looked clean. The filter was a little dark, nut not black or slimy. I suppose this is a good thing, however it makes the job a bit less satisfying after all of that frustration.

57K miles on a 2006 R53 btw.
 
  #112  
Old 06-25-2011, 11:52 AM
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Glad you got it off, Pritch. I was going to send out word of encouragement, but fortunately no need.
 
  #113  
Old 07-01-2011, 04:42 PM
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Oh man, I'm about in hour 3 of this job and nothing seems to be going right. Took about an hour to get the housing apart then couldn't get it back together till someone on here told me to seat the large o-ring in the housing not on the lid before connecting the two. Bingo! Pushed right on.... now it won't twist to lock... man wasn't expecting this sort of job.
 
  #114  
Old 07-01-2011, 07:30 PM
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Well 5 hours into this thing, trip to the store to buy some stuff for leverage and the only thing I've been able to do is start tearing the plastic housing when I try to twist the two pieces back together. I've made sure everything is well lubricated, the pieces are going on the right way and in all logic it should twist closed. I'm pretty hosed on ideas right now. Anyone have any final thoughts before I start looking for a local shop to clean up this mess?
 
  #115  
Old 07-01-2011, 08:31 PM
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Sorry for the multiple posts guys.

I got it back together! The problem was the new large o-ring was twice as thick as the old o-ring (which was in surprisingly good shape). It wouldn't allow me to push the two pieces far enough together to even start twisting them closed. I know it's not ideal but as soon as I cleaned up the old o-ring and put some petroleum jelly on it the whole thing was back together in a couple minutes. Primed the pump about 10 times and it started right up!

Sorry again for the multiple posts. I guess I should compare the parts I take off with the parts I'm about to put on first things first (lesson learned).
 
  #116  
Old 07-03-2011, 01:43 PM
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Done at 55K miles. Getting the cap off from the bottom half to access the fuel filter was the worst ever. I finally took an old bicycle seatpost and drilled two holes 3 1/2 inches a a part and dropped in two bolts. Gave me enough leverage. It was a two person job.

Must haves are 1) Coffee Can , 2) Dental pick for small O-Ring, 3) Lot's of rags 4) Wide flat head to pry top from bottom, 5) Rubber Gloves for grip when you twist the top off.

I'm pretty pleased with myself, even though my fingers are raw. Plan on at least 1 Hour. I spent 3 1/2 mostly trying to get the cap off.
 
  #117  
Old 07-17-2011, 11:20 AM
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All done here as well. I had 62.5k on a 2005 MCSA. Low end feels much better. I had a bad time sealing it all back. The hint in here that saved me was the reuse of the big o ring from the original filter. The new o ring is a bigger cross section ( same diameter ). This caused it to catch, and bunch up. With the old one on, all is good. This was a Vaico filter kit.

RY
 
  #118  
Old 08-05-2011, 03:57 PM
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This write up was great...Ive been working on cars professionally and not for most of my life, so it only took me about a half hour to do it....The part that got me was the big o-ring....i did not realise when i lifted the sender out how it was on there, so i was just setting it down and trying to put the lock ring on...after about 15 mins with no luck i looked at the gasket, looked at the lip on the fuel tank and said....DUH! Put it on the lip, and 2 mins later fired it up....Thanks!
 
  #119  
Old 08-07-2011, 12:28 PM
Bill O'Brien
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HELP... I removed the fuel filer housing to chance the fuel filer. Well, Bavarian Auto sent me the wrong filter so unless I can find a new one local tomorrow the old one is going back in and I will have to do the filter one more time.

Now, for my issue...

I got the filter housing put back together. I am sure I twisted the two halves all the way, it snapped back in place. After puting the filter housing and sending unit back down into the tank and try to install the locking ring it is apparent that the filter housing and sending unit are not going down far enough into the tank. I have definitely pushed down on it all that it can go but it seems like it is 2 - 4 mm too high. It is as if the sending unit is hitting something on the bottom of the tank and cant go any lower ... ???

The 'positioning' section on the top of the filter housing, the one that goes between the two tabs on the edge of the hole in the gas tank definitely is not going down all the way. (I hope I explained that correctly...)

Here is a link to the instructions I used to get to the filter:

http://www.minicooperspeed.com/fuel-filter-change/

http://www.billswebspace.com/MiniR50...erDIYGuide.htm


One of the pics in this thread shows how the position tab should fit flush.....

https://www.northamericanmotoring.com...hange-mcs.html

Maine is no where near flush.... ???

If anyone has any experience with this I could really use some advice!!!! Need to get the tank reassembled tomorrow...

Thank You!!!!!!!
 
  #120  
Old 08-08-2011, 07:56 AM
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I had the same problem....Ill try to explain this the best i can...The big gasket need to be put on the lip of the gas tank FIRST, dont just set in on the lip. Like how the gasket is U-shaped, the bottom of the gasket should be under the lip of the gas tank opening, and the top of the gasket should be on the top of the lip. Then set the sending unit down on that.....When i did it i was just trying to set the gasket down and then set the sending unit on top of it, and not wrapping the gasket..I dont have anyway to try to show you a picture from this computer, if this didnt help, ill trying "drawing" you a picture on paint or something when i get home tonight and post it up...
 
  #121  
Old 08-09-2011, 07:17 PM
Bill O'Brien
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Thank you for the reply.

I don't think that is the issue. I was putting the filer back in with all of the original gaskets ( had the wrong filter delivered to me so I was just putting it all back together) The new filer is on the way and I will tackle it either Wednesday or Thursday night....

Also, I was pushing down very hard on the filer. It really feels like the sending unit or something down in the tank is bottoming out. Is that possible??

I tried to see down into the tank with a flashlight when I was putting the filter housing / sending unit in place but as you can imagine there really is no way to see down there.

It must be something I have done if no one else has encountered this issue.
 
  #122  
Old 08-11-2011, 08:00 AM
Bill O'Brien
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I put the new filer into the housing last night and got that all closed up.

I think I may have figured out my issue. The large 'This Side Down' gasket .... I have it just sitting there. I did not push it down and into the hole in the tank. I had assumed it would just sit there and did not know it had to be fitted down and in the hole.

I will try this and let you guys know if it worked!!
 
  #123  
Old 08-15-2011, 06:28 AM
Bill O'Brien
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Done! She is running again. My issues were:

I did not install the gasket correctly. The gasket that goes around the top of the filter housing does not merely sit there. It needs to be fitted down into the hole.

Even after I installed the gasket correctly the filter housing would not go all the way down... so.. I used a hammer. I somewhat gently tapped around the top of the filter housing until the entire housing was flush... the retaining ring went right on with no issues.
 
  #124  
Old 01-18-2012, 02:23 PM
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Thumbs up Love this DIY

Blessed be the NAM DIY posters! Changed the fuel filter in my '04 MCS (R53) today. Car has just over 100K on it, never changed the filter before. Hardest part - separating the lid from the housing. I'm a gal, and I have gal hands; not so strong.

Used a gigantic adjustable slip joint wrench to secure the housing, clamping wrench handles between my knees whilst leaning my backside against the back of the passenger seat. This allowed me to use both hands on the lid. (thank goodness nobody was around to watch) The lid and housing still needed prying apart, a flat ended (or slotted, or whatever you like to call it) screwdriver and some patient prying did the job.

Second hardest part - trying to press the lid and housing back together. Until I decided to check further along the thread and saw mention that the Vaico lid o-ring is thicker than the original. Reused the original and things slipped right together.

Primed the pump as described, car started right up. Only driven around the block so far, nothing seems amiss.

Gas tank was just over half full, and the car sat unused overnight. No fuel leaked from the line when I disconnected it.

I'm a happy camper!
 
  #125  
Old 03-20-2012, 01:59 PM
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What a job! Seriously doubt I could've done it without this DIY thread. Everything went fine until I tried to get the top off. More power to anyone with sufficient grip to do it bare-handed! Finally resorted to using a strap filter wrench and a spanner made from some 1 inch angle steel (the stuff with holes drilled in it) about 18 inches long and used two 8mmx35mm bolts with nuts. The bolts were positioned so as to go into the honeycomb of the top. Tough to get into position but once there, got the leverage needed. Used the same method to put it back on.
First try was a no start but realized I was low on gas. Added 10 gal. and still no start so I went back in to find the large o-ring had dropped out of position. Took greater care in assembling this time and it paid off after the obligatory half-dozen key cycles. This time, I could hear the fuel going into the line. The first time, all I heard was the pump running with each key cycle.
BTW, 54k mi. and the filter was black! Lifetime filter? Whose lifetime?
 

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