Just received my 15% Supercharger pulley, belt and NGK platinum plugs today.
I watched Mod Mini's very informative youtube video on the SC pulley upgrade and searched the forum for threads on users' experience doing this mod.
What I was hoping to to find is some NAM member's experience in actually preforming this upgrade. Mainly; must have tools, avoiding mistakes, tips & tricks, etc...,
One of the caveats I face is working/doing this mod in the parking lot of my townhome. I have a sufficient arsenal of tools; a breaker bar, torque wrench, heavy duty ratchet(s), quality sockets and an 18v impact driver...
I don't think my 18v impact driver is going to cut it. I'm most likely going to have to muscle wrench the stock pulley off by hand.
Is removing the stock pulley off by wrench even possible (or a futile attempt)?

Any experience from seasoned or weekend mechanics could share, would be very much appreciated.

Oh - and please feel free to share any "horror" stories you may have had preforming this mod

 

A belt tensioner tool(and tensioner grenade pin) are a huge help, to the point that I would consider them necessary.

A purpose-built supercharger pulley puller is necessary, period. Especially if you're doing this in a driveway. The first R53 pulley I did, I pulled the supercharger and used a hydraulic press to get the pulley off, I toasted two bearing knives and almost wrecked the supercharger. The second one I did I used a grinder and Dremel(supercharger off the car) and still had to use a puller on the remnants. Save yourself the headache, buy a puller, and sell it when you're done with it if budget is an issue.

I'm sure others will chime in with more advice, those are just my two biggest takeaways from changing a couple pulleys.

 

I don't remember much about my swap, so it must have been uneventful. ModMini video is a good place to start for just about any project.

I used a purpose built puller. Can't imagine doing it any other way. Post your location-there might be someone nearby willing to let you borrow one.

 

Dont use a impact driver when removing the pulley! You will destroy the threads of the puller as demonstrated here (around 36:00 mark):
Just use a normal ratchet. The special tool for the serpentine belt (+ the pin) is an essential tool. Just buy a specific puller, you will be glad you did Also, use thread locker on the bolts of the new pulley, also essential!

 

Whoops...

 

You guys are awesome!

1) Mini belt removal tool = check
2) SC pulley removal tool = check (should be on it's way soon)
3) Chain vice (if needed) = check
4) Thread locker 'blue' = check
5) Angle grinder/cutoff wheel + Dremmel (gawd forbid!) = check
6) Auto parts store 3/4 walking distance down the road = check

@nd-photo.nl Thank you for that input and the video. Honestly, I initially thought the same thing about the tool threads. I had a similar failure happen removing a stuck crank pulley on a Porsche 914 engine many years ago. I'll never forget it.

BTW folks; The Mini belt tension tool makes a handy defensive weapon (or deterrent) in a pinch...It's an odd story - late one night, alone at a dimly lit convenient store putting air in my tire...

 

Yes , the belt tool and pin are almost a must have if your releasing tension..
funny the tool gets mentioned as a weapon . Lol my daughter was running around with mine while working on my car with me pretending to cut me down..lol

 

Just completed the 15% Supercharger pulley mod today.
Followed ModMini's tutorial and the advice of NAM members.
Hoping for the best but always expecting the unexpected -
Unfortunately upon removal of the tensioner, I discovered that the top 10mm tensioner bolt was broken off in the case at the sleeve.
Drilled into the broken bolt and removed it by tapping in a torx 25 driver and backed it out by hand.
The tensioner is new and was replaced at a local Mini garage about 4 month ago. In addition to an new idler pulley, belt, upper engine mount and oil filter gasket. The oil filter is still leaking.
Before walking to the local auto parts store for a bolt; I took the opportunity to siphon out the old SC oil and dropped in 4.5 oz of ACDelco 12345982.

Removing the old OEM pulley couldn't have gone smoother. The new 15% two piece pulley was a little more intense.
It was unexpectedly tight 'sliding' on to the SC shaft. I had to tap the collar and then the pulley, onto the shaft with the aid of a block of wood.
Not sure if this was 'normal' for the installation.

Fired up the Mini before buttoning up the liner and wheel. All seems straight and smooth. No unusual noise.
Will R&R with NGK colder plugs and test drive tomorrow.

Took me about 11hrs. When it comes to engines; I'm kind of a clean freak. 4 of those hours spent de-greasing and wiping down every nook and cranny I could reach. I just dislike dirt. There was some oil but not too much gunk.

 

Good to hear that you were successfull How do you like it so far?

 

Cool Aide!
Popped in a new set of NGK (BKR7EQUP) and took it out for a spin this morning.
I could definitely feel the increased boost. It's not like I have a jet on my *** but...
That whine. That intoxicating whine! - it's like moonshine to my ears.
I love it.

The only caveat with the doing this mod was discovering things that were disconcerting to me.
1) The over torqued and broken tensioner bolt.
2) Having to tap/hammer in to seat the new SC collar and pulley.
3) All the old (40k) plugs looked normal...Except for #2; which looked like it was literally dipped in oil. It was seated in there really tight (over the recommended specs. I suspect). I didn't notice any blow by. Even though I never felt any diminished/loss of power over the years + no tailpipe smoke - However, I suspect that (perhaps), #2 piston may have blown a ring(s). Will have to do a compression check to verify.

I've only test drove it for about 6-8 mi since the mod. Can't get enough of that power boost...and that Whine!
...Did I mention that WHINE???

 

If you love that whine, imagine what happens if you drive with an big open cone

 

Nicely stuffed there, nd-photo.
Bet your Mini really breathes!
Nice and clean looking install too.

I often thought about the intercooler you have as well.

Before I got the nerve to start doing my own work on my Mini (2012); Having built and driven
rear/mid engine, air cooled cars my whole life, Air flow was of the utmost importance.

My first mod I did on my Mini was an "experimental" CAI to the stock airbox. I didn't know about all the after market CAI at the time.
I managed a 2.75"x6" K&N cone in the box and adapted a 1.75"x2" oblong/flat ABS shop vac snout from the top of the airbox extending straight out below the cowl. The end has as slight 25° downturn to avoid sucking in water. The geometry of the shop vac snout allowed me to retain the original "heat shield". A 1.75"x2.5" cut out just below the rubber gasket was all. That simple mod made all the difference. Seemed to have a little better performance. I could barely hear the SC whine before. Now, in addition to the new pulley -

I can only imagine what yours sounds like!

 

Cool! I love it when people come up with creative ideas and try to improve their car.

I can help you with that Video was shot with stock suspension, in the meantime it has been lowered.

 

Ha Ha!
That video is great. That is indeed one ferocious whine. I love it!!
Very cool little 'Mini jet' you've managed to build.

Funny you should mention suspension. While performing the SC pulley mod, I had the opportunity to inspect my OEM front struts.
The car rides and handles very well. No noise. No domed or deformed top mounts. Bearings and rubber seal are perfect, However, I discovered the shock boots are totaly blown.
So that's next on the "Mini-Pit" list. Maybe front & rear swaybar upgrade too (??=$$).

Day 2 after the SC pulley mod:
First thing this morning I fired up the Mini and was soon met with a SES light. OBD scan revealed a P1477 = 'Reed Switch Did Not Open' code.
Cleared the code and zipped off to work. Later the code reappeared.
I searched the NAM threads and found the answer. A small hose attached to an elbow under the right(passenger side) of the intercooler disconnected. R&R the IC to gain access.
The elbow literally appeared to be the same stuff Twinkies are made from.
Not knowing what to call this "thing" to order a new one; I improvised: by discarding the mushy (useless) elbow, cutting a 5" piece of coaxial cable (I keep a lot of odd things in my car) and slid off the sheath....
Voila! - a tube.
Connected each end to their respective nipples. SES light went out instantly.
Test drove a few more (fun filled) miles. The P1477 has not reappeared.
I hope to replace the elbow - Provided it is not the same poor quality (destined to fail) crap that I just threw away. Otherwise I'll just replace with a heat resistant tube/hose again.