I’ll explain first, car has all the bolt on mods and then some on my 05 MCS minus internal components so I decided to install a RMW cam and one thing I forgot to do was release the chain tensioner. Second after I started heard a noise then nothing. Long story short timing chain came off sprocket and was wedged at the bottom. Bought a new chain, guilds ect and put back together. Now it won’t start but turns over easily. I did a compression test and three cylinders has 35-40 psi and the forth had 50 psi. I didn’t think these were close tolerance engines but did I bend the valves now?

 

Most definitely

 

Ended up pulling the head and didn’t have one bent valve. Found out I was not at TDC when I installed the timing chain.

 

Glad to hear it wasn't as bad as feared. I thought these were non-interference engines, but couldn't remember for sure.

 

actually it’s worse I found the issue, when the chain came off the cam sprocket because I didn’t release the chain tensioner the chain came off and lodged in the bottom. Caused the crank sprocket to shear off the dowel pin which I didn’t catch so even though I would time it perfectly it really wasn’t since it had spun. Now I have to figure out how to remove what’s left of it???

 

Both the W10 and W11 are interference engines. You just got lucky.

 

Well I can’t get the sheared pin out and I’m not removing the crank so I have decided that after my new sprocket arrived I’m going to weld it in place with the dowel notch.

 

This is above my pay grade, but could you drill the dowel out? or is there no way to get a drill do it?

 

If you can get a drill in there, you could probably drill it out. If I remember correctly, dowel pins are only case hardened: i.e. the outer skin is hard, but the inner core is soft metal. If you are really good, and can drill the dowel dead center, a carbide drill bit will take the whole thing out.

 

if the crank was out yes I think it’s a good possibility but with it in the block I can’t get the drill bit on it straight.

 

I think the only kind of tool that would work is a dentist tool because of clearance issues. I’ve tried a Dremel with the round cutter bit but barely touched it.

 

I wonder if something like this would make it possible.

 

ahh maybe.. I welded the sprocket on today so we’ll see. Amazing how far out of time it was or should I say the sprocket spun. The first picture it the spun and second is how it’s supposed to be. Look at the flats that run the oil pump in relation to the copper links. Big difference!

 

If you have an arc welder, just butt-weld a rod on to the pin and try to pull it out.

 

I don’t but borrowed my neighbor’s mig welder to weld it.

 

Which RMW cam did you put in and now that your car is fixed, what differences in performance did you notice?

 

250 and I’ll know tomorrow once it’s together... I hope!