I plan to replace the clutch on a 2005 Cooper S that has a 6spd manual and 115,000 mi. I am not new to doing my own car work, and have done some extensive work on some older BMWs. I have also done some transmission valve body rebuilds, etc. This will be my first Mini repair project.

I found what looks to be a very good disassembly/reassembly youtube video.

Disassembly:
Reassembly:

It also makes sense to change the rear crank seal at the same time, no matter the condition. Its just too cheap not to do it!

The previous owner claimed to have replaced the clutch, and and the master/slave cylinders. They also had it for about 15,000 miles. Despite this, I believe they probably sold it because the clutch was slipping.

A local reputable mechanic (who has done this job before for someone I know) wanted over $3000 for an OEM clutch along with the master/slave cylinders. That seems to be very excessive, given what I saw in this attached video. It appears parts for this job is around $500 (Using a Valeo kit w/flywheel). I just dont feel $2500 in labor in this job. Thats just too much.

My questions are:

1. Do those who have done this job regret it? Any particular hints/tips?
2. Which clutch kit to get? OEM? Valeo? Other? I do want a very rugged clutch. Not for performance, but for new kid drivers. I want it to be forgiving.

Thanks!

Rod



the previous owner said they put a new clutch on this car.

 

The only advice I can give is to watch these two videos more than once and then have them ready to play when you are doing the job.

They were the only way I could have done this myself on my R50.

 

The dual mass flywheel cannot be resurfaced so if it's heavily glazed or warped you will need to replace it. An OEM flywheel is about $1000, this is probably why the mechanic had such a high quote.
LUK is the OEM supplier and they go for about $300 over at FCPEuro. I would HIGHLY recommend throwing one in while you have everything apart, especially since the PO went through a clutch so quickly which indicates it wasn't treated well. Also, replace all the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank and the pressure plate to the flywheel and use a torque wrench.

 

Having done a few of these, they are a pain to do in the car but still doable.

i would do the trans input shaft seal, the input shaft guide tube and clutch fork bushings while out too. Remember to replace the flywheel bolts.

You will have to remove the subframe to get it out from the bottom. I think just pulling the motor and trans is almost as much work and the clutch can be changed very easily then to. Plus you can do other maintenance then too like thermostat housing, oil cooler seals, oil filter housing seals, etc.

 

You do not have to remove the subframe for a clutch job. ModMini's videos are excellent. I used them when I installed a Valeo clutch/flywheel/pressure plate/throwout bearing in my 2004. Bear in mind that the Mini does not have a pilot bearing (alignment tool is useless) so the biggest problem you're going to have is centering the clutch plate/pressure plate then properly aligning the spline when you reinstall the trans. Reinstallation is definitely a two-person job. Also, think hard about buying a shock tower engine support from Harbor Freight. It makes the job much easier and you can sell it online as soon as you're finished - not expensive and a great investment. If you've wrenched in the past this should not be a hard task for you. Just take your time and don't rush. Good luck.

 

Have a look at the Pelican Parts directions. Step 2 is pull the subframe. I still had limited space to get the trans out.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...eplacement.htm

 

From what I remember when I did mine...yes, you have to drop the subframe. If you don't, I don't see how you could ever get the transmission out of the bottom of the car. As far as a new clutch goes, lots of people go with (myself included) the Valeo clutch. Make sure you replace the teflon sleeve and the throwout bearing while you are in there. I've got around 30K miles on my Valeo clutch, and it's great!

I did mine by myself....it wasn't hard, but it took me a good 8 hours to do it. I used a Harbor Freight transmission jack under the motor to keep it up while I used another jack under the transmission to help get it out.

Keep things organized and take lots of pictures...it really helps when you start putting everything back together.

Any like others have said....those videos are great, watch them a few times...and then watch them again. It's a pretty straight forward process....just take your time.

Good luck!

 

Great replies everyone. You have confirmed what I thought about this job. I have already purchased the entine support and trans jack. My only question pending is whether OEM is worth it at all. It seems $1000 for a OEM flywheel is just too much. At the same time, I have to feel a little uncertain about the Valeo kit only because of price. Is it REALLY a good flywheel to bay less than $400 for an ENTIRE clutch WITH the flywheel?? It seems too cheap. Not that I would volunteer to pay more, but $1000 for just a flywheel is a huge contrast in price. I want to do this job once this year!!! I have a kid driver on this, and I dont want a frail clutch system here. ANy reassurances? I do want the Valeo kit, but... can it handle as much??? Will it survive my kid?

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/min...ooper-52151203

Thanks!

 

I used these same videos and replaced my R53 with the Valeo kit and had zero regrets. Put another 30,000 miles on the car before I sold it and had zero issues. Have plenty of time as with any job like this there will be problems with boot access, stuck bolts, oil leaks you didn't know where there, etc.. I also took advantage of having so much disassembled that I did a ton of other work as well. Good luck!

 

I just bought an 03 with 137k on it that needed a clutch. I tried every which way from Sunday to drop the trans without pulling motor or dropping subframe. Just drop the subframe, after having done this I could certainly say, aside from an unknown parts issue I could do this again in 1 day in my garage with just a jack and jack stands, and a helper for about 20% of the work (dropping subframe, dropping trans, reinstalling both) Most of the work is teardown and reassembly.

While I had mine apart I noticed that a previous owner had jacked (or tried to jack) up the car using the radiator, so the car got a new radiator, condenser and rad support.

Its not that hard or complicated, I think pulling a motor out of a late 90s early 00s k chevy is more complicated. There is not much that needs to be disconnected as far as fluids are concerned, since I did rad and condenser, I was probably about 30 mins from being able to pull the motor out if need be.

Now if only I could get the heat to work

 

The thing that gave me the biggest fits was getting to a couple of those bolts that hold the transmission bellhousing to the motor. Make sure you have a few different sizes of extensions available, and a swivel for your sockets. There just isn't a lot of room down in there, especially if you have big hands...but it's doable. I will say that after doing that job, nothing else scares me as far as mechanical work goes on that car

 

Having been in automotive parts for 20+ years, I can assure you that the dual mass flywheel system is overpriced european engineering. If a manufacturer such as Valeo offers a kit with a standard flywheel, USE IT!

Standard single mass flywheels have been in use forever.

I worked for an import specialist company that was bought by the big beast Advance, and we sold the conversion kits all the time, with no ill side effects.

 

My bad. IQRaceworks is correct. I had forgotten that I had my front subframe already out for suspension work. As an aside, I put a Valeo kit in my 2004 that runs 193.5hp at the wheel and I've had no issues with it whatsoever. Also, do yourself a favor and remove the airbox for easier access to the shift cables that need to be disconnected before you drop the trans.

 

Yep, getting back to that stuff...and some of those big electrical connectors down deep on the block were fun. When you put it all back together.....jump in the car and run the shifter around a little bit to make sure the shift cables are seated back on the ***** correctly....before you put the airbox back in. I had one of mine pop off.....easy fix, but I would I would have checked everything before I put the airbox back on.

 

I need to swap transmissions in my '06 R52 JCW car soon....has a 4th gear clash from either shifting direction. I already have the transmission, and I just have not pulled the trigger on a Valeo clutch system yet, but after reading the comments above, I'm pretty sure that my clutch disc is bad from less than 2,000 miles of driving because I just used the dual mass flywheel that was on the car.....

I have debated on either pulling the entire engine and trans assembly again as I did when I had to replace the engine, or drop the sub frame to do this trans swap....I'm probabky going to just pull the engine and trans as a unit again...I just had it all out last year, shouldn't be any surprises this time. I also don't want to purchase a shock tower engine holder, or have another alignment done after putting the sub frame back in like they suggest having done....I just paid over $100 for a complete alignment after I got the car back on the road.

I want to thank everyone for the comments above....I'm going to get the Valeo clutch assembly....now I just need to find a kit with a decent price....found a kit on Amazon for $300...but it said it doesn't fit my car...so the search continues

Bryan

 

Check out FCP Euro. They have decent pricing on Valeo clutches.

 

I follow modmini' video and I've done 5 so far, not terribly hard. I would go valeo unless you have a cam and pulley and go to the track, valeo will slip when it gets hot, like 3rd session on a hot day shifting into 3rd/4th/5th

I have never removed the subframeonly trick part is installing the trans, I hang the trans off my harbor freight cross brace and wiggle/position with my hands, if you try to support the transmission from the bottom it's 10x harder

 

I don't have a cam in the car, but a 17% pulley is going on when I change transmissions....I don't plan on tracking the car either...it's just going to be a good daily driver with a few spirited driving now and then

Bryan

 

Suggestion: Post-pulley install, upgrade to 380cc injectors and have adriancl on this forum remotely tune your car. Reman Audi TT 380cc injectors are cheap [Set (4) Bosch Fuel Injector 0280156063 for Audi TT Quattro for $39 on eBay] and are plug & play. It's what I run on my R53 and they've been great. Adrian's tuning cost is extremely reasonable and you won't believe the performance increase. Tip: if you do decide to install the Audi injectors buy a set of Mini injector o-rings ($19 on eBay) because they're slightly larger and seal better than the Audi version.

 

Not sure if you were replying to my post above, but my car is a factory '06 JCW car... already have the factory injectors and all the other goodies.

I have been contemplating contacting the person you mentioned for tune on my ECM...

Bryan

 

You need to for sure plan to remove the subframe to do the clutch. While it is out go ahead and rebuild the suspension with powerflex as the stock control arm bushings are worn out at 40k miles.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/powerf...0-r52-r53.html

the car will feel like new again. For the clutch that is a personal preference. We use both the stock clutch kit and the Valeo kits here as both have been reliable. If the stock flywheel is in good condition it is pretty affordable to do the stock. The big difference between the two is the feel and sound. The Valeo is a softer pedal feel, and the flywheel does give a little gear like sound vs the stock has a good solid pedal feel.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/valeo-...l-kit-r53.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/stock-...-cooper-s.html

I don't like it when mechanics quote every clutch with a slave and master cylinder as that is BS. You only need to replace them if they are failed, not by time, mileage or just because you're doing a clutch job.

I would do the guide tube, input shaft seal, fork bushings, and rear main seal at the same time though.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/throw-...-cooper-s.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/transm...-cooper-s.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/clutch...-cooper-s.html
https://www.waymotorworks.com/rear-m...0-r52-r53.html

And if you are into real performance and the budget allows add and LSD as this is the best mod you can do to get the power down no matter if you got 150 or 300, HP is worthless if you can't get it to the ground.
https://www.waymotorworks.com/quaife...ferential.html

 

FYI.....Make sure you have a wide-band AFR gauge on your car if you are going to do a remote tune. No way to give feedback to whomever is doing your tune as far as if it's running rich/lean in certain areas.