I have my MCS apart to do a clutch so Im fixing everything I can find . My cars been leaking oil forever and it appeared to be the oil pan gasket so I replaced it and even used a bit of grey rtv gasket maker . I filled the engine with oil and its been just sitting on jack stands for for 3 days while I fixed some other things . I was surprised to find oil leaking without even running the engine ?? . If your facing the crank pulley the leak is at the left corner closest to the pulley . I was thinking maybe it was the seal behind the ATI crank pulley but as I said I havent run the engine at all . It dosent seem to be comming from higher up so Im at a loss . Any ideas GREATLY appreciated

 

Most likely the gasket between the oil filter housing and the block and/or the oil cooler. A frequent cause of leaks. Also possible but much less likely a valve cover leak.

 

I suspected the valve cover as well but I can see it clearly and its dry . I did already buy the oil cooler gasket and intend on changing it but it looks dry around it and I havent run the engine . Any other possibilities?

 

You need to determine whether even when not running any portion of the crankshaft oil seals are below the top level of the oil in the pan because if so, and the seals are really bad, they will leak notwithstanding the fact that the engine is not being run. I'm having the same problem, but with the rear main.

 

Did you replace the crank seal when you installed the ATI pulley?

 

I did in Nov 2017 when I installed the ATI damper . I kind of suspect the seal because the oil seems to be comming from the lower left corner when facing the crank pulley. It doesnt make sense though because I believe it's a above the oil level and like I said I haven't started the engine . Maybe I'll replace it . I dont imagine the pulley would be too hard to remove

 

If it was the crank seal would it leak behind the timing chain cover ??because that's where I suspect its possibly comming from (lower left corner).Theres no leak I can see between the damper and timing chain cover. I checked again and its dry everywhere I look above the oil pan .

 

Is the oil pan gasket wet?

i don’t think rtv should be used with that gasket :/

 

Update... I cleaned the area above and around the oil pan gasket on the corner where its leaking and put some rtv to seal any small leaks . Today I see oil again only on the corner bolt of the oil pan and the lower left edge of the timing chain cover . It looks like the oil is on top of the rtv so I dont think it's the oil pan leaking and above the oil pan is dry . It looks like its comming from the lower left corner of the TC cover. .

. Is there anything behind the timing chain cover that could be leaking?

 

+1
Thinking start over, new gasket, leave out the RTV this time, finger tighten all bolts then torque to spec in the sequence in the diagram:

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/r...l-sump/43CJIaP

Good how-to visual if it helps (oil pan gasket install starts at 10:50):

 

Thanks for the help. .I'm going to change the oil cooler orings first then maybe I'll try that . PAI to do again

 

If I could hijack my own thread for a sec.
I polished the inside of the "horn " between the SC outlet and intercooler inlet. Also the "horn" at the outlet of the IC to the inlet of the intake .
I used rtv on the old gaskets . I hope it wasn't a mistake not buying new gsskets

 

My timing chain cover was leaking from the exact spot you describe. It was pretty involved to solve, but I replaced the belt tensioner and crank damper while I was at it.

 

Does the manual R50 have an oil cooler?

i have a leak at about 1Q every 500 miles even after changing the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing.

 

R50 does not. Either the front or rear main seal. The other could be the oil filter housing is leaking. Do you have any white smoke comming out the tail pipe.
My suggestion is to clean everything. Then get a big piece of cardboard an park on top of it. Then you can narrow you leaking area .

 

Thank you.

i replaced the oil filter housing after rapidly fingering the plastic spring valve till it broke (Jan 2018). And from the previous owners comment, “we never changed the oil only refilled it,” I’ve suspected they were having an oil leak as well. I bought my True Silver R50 Jan 2018.

Tomorrow night I’ll deep clean my engine then drive a few miles Friday morning.

Ill take pictures and report back. I see people seem fine with 1Q every 1K miles, but no way the engineers that designed this beautiful vehicle intended for such a leak.

Heres to hoping it’s not valve stem seals. 🍻

 

... don't forget the O-rings and if were valve stem seals, more than likely pulling and inspecting the spark plugs should give you an idea of fouling.

IF you did are planning on doing the clutch, do the rear main seal this is a BIG leak spot and should be done whenever you are in that area.

Best of luck.

Motor On!

 

Sorry for hijacking this thread. I appreciate the answers and information.

I heard terrible rattling under 3k rpms, and at that point it might just be the engine being louder than the rattle. I took off my valve cover to inspect the chain and guides, and the chain is wore on its top side observed while seated on the cam. I recently replaced the tensioner, but after the leak caused me to run out of oil this horrible rapid rattling has come back even while the oil is full.

Today I’m working on the timing chain guide, sprockets, chain and I’ll probably put in a new tensioner. I’ll replace timing cover gaskets too.

I’m very sad that this is what has become of my engine. My wife’s Chevy Aveo is at 188k miles compared to my 198k and we’ve done far less work on her car.