I ran into a guy that said he would be willing to do a cam install on my car.. he even knew about notching the sparkplug tubes for clearance so I kinda trust the guy.
if I did do a mild cam , is it safe to drive it untuned and would it even idle correctly or even stay running ? I watched a YouTube video and the guy did a cam and the car fired up and ran perfect and he never mentioned a tune or anything.
i would get a tune in time when I can find a custom tuner I could afford. And I have a decent amount of other mods so its not going into a stock setup.
I was looking at the Crower stage 2 can btw..
or for around 400$ what would be a better mod ?
my current mods are :
Forge intercooler and crappy Alta couplers
Intake
15% pulley and lightweight crank
headers , no cat and pacesetter exhaust
Jcw injectors
msd coilpacks , wires and range colder NGKs
i have but I don't know if I will use, throttle controller , short throw shifter and a beeR launch controller.
.I also run 91octane and cut it with e85 so I run about 93-95 octane rating and with spirited driving I'm getting 27/36 still
ALSO I would trade the throttle controller and or launch controller (both brand new) for a cam or something else I would use. I suuuure could use a air diverter for my forge intercooler

 

Honestly it depends how radical the Cam, with the one you're suggesting, it will probably be ok, but....

Be prepared for possible rough idle, but more likely stalling from RPM-to-Idle.
While not impossible to drive, it may simply be more difficult, esp at first before the ECU has had a chance to make any adaptations.

The one thing you want to stay away from before a tune is High RPM and WOT, the ECU will do it's best to compensate in closed loop (normal driving) but have more trouble in open loop (WOT) because the changes the Cam makes are more prevalent in high RPM and heavy fuel areas.

Get it tuned soon as possible, and double check the installation info, with the better Cams offered today, spark plug tube modification really shouldn't be needed.

 

On waymotorworks they say it's fine to run without a tune ... I know alot of vehicles can run mild cams no tune just fine . I would swap better heads and cam on my 4.6 Ford's even raising compression with no tune just fine , so long as I ran premium gas as the only extra mod.
i want some one who has actually did a cam to chime in and knows for sure ..because I read alot of conflicting info . And I'd think the seller of the cam wouldn't say it would be fine and safe to run it if it weren't , exp since then if it didn't they could always try selling a tuner along with it .

 

After literally reading about this ALL last night this is what I've found ..someone who did a cam plz chime in
so long as I'm using a street/strip cam and the durations arnt too large ,running it on stock tune is absolutely acceptable..the tune will mainly help the car maintain an idle ,no cel and will help fuel ratios.
I'm not worried too much about my afr because of all my corresponding mods BUT I will have an afr gauge installed prior to the cam install .
I will be doing this the shorter route by just removing the valve cover , rockers and cam ..I will keep tension on the timing chain by bungey cording it to the hood to hold it up .
What are something's that I should pay attention to and look at or replace while this job is being done ? I plan on doing this in the next month or two.

 

As mentioned before, as long as you are willing to put up with the possibility of some Idle or RPM-to-Idle issues, then go ahead and try it, you simply won't get the full benefits of it without the tune.

And yes, install the AFR gauge and live by it, without a re-tune, lean conditions are the killer you need to watch for, with high RPM and WOT operation.

As far as the swap itself:
-You will have to be ready to support the engine from below, the top motor mount will have to be removed to re-torque the Cam bolt. (Loctite it as well)
-Use care to make sure you are seated on the cover bolts well, if you round the head of one, they are expensive to replace.
-I always, mark the chain and sprocket, and also zip tie the sprocket to the chain, just to make sure it doesn't move a tooth.
-Use a support rod for the bonnet, if you can't finish the job all at once for some reason, the last thing you need is for it to accidentally close or lower, with the Cam sprocket bungee'd up for tension. (Accidentally skipping a crank sprocket tooth would be a nightmare scenario for such an easy job as a Cam swap.)
-A little lube on the Cam Sensor O-Ring is recommended during re-assembly, to keep it from accidentally tearing or rolling.
-If you don't rent or buy a Cam retaining tool, use a higher gear to lock the drivetrain in place for Cam Bolt removal and re-torque.
-Personally, I remove the Rocker Shaft bolts in reverse torque sequence order, by hand, not with power. (Most likely just my paranoia, but why not)
-I prefer assembly lube over oil on a fresh Cam, and it wouldn't hurt to use a zinc additive for the first 500 miles, then an oil change.

I think that's all.
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Thank you for those tips !
the zinc additive is just for a "break in" period correct ? I use Walmarts syntech full synthetic , should I use the same grade oil as manufactor calls for or should I switch to 0w30 ??
I'm aware my idle might fluctuate a few 100rpms and that's ok..
My 97 cougar I built I did company 262s if I remember correctly with a bunch of other mods and that didn't bother me ..
IF any of you guys are in Wisconsin or Illinois and have a hookup on tuning these r53s, give me a shout out !

 

Yes, the zinc additive is just for break-in.
I'd stick with 5w-30, I've experimented with others and end up coming back, although many have had good luck with 5w or 0w 40's also (esp for summer)

Honestly, as long as you change it often (performance oil change parameters, not factory use), it really shouldn't matter that much, with that little of a variation.

 

I wouldnt bother with a cam that didnt require a tune. Its not worth it really. If the DME can compensate then its not enough not for me anyway. Minimum I would so is a Catcam 469 and make sure you have the VDO ecu also I’m in eau Claire

 

I'm unfamiliar with vdo.. I guess I will try looking into what that is..
I do already have a boost gauge and an x60 muli gauge installed already and soon my afr gauge will be installed ..
I don't want too aggressive of a cam as I don't wanna have to mod the sparkplug tubes and get a tune.. I guess I'd be ALOT more inclined on a tune if I could find one that's affordable . I just can't justify spending 600$ on a tune yet when the car with all it's mods is running top-notch perfect . Yes I know tunes help a bunch as I have done canned tunes and mail-order custom tuning with an xcal4

 

The VDO is a later incarnation of the factory ECU, depending on the year of your car, you may already have one.
The VDO's benefit is access to more maps for the ability to better fine tune, which is sometimes what is needed for Cam tuning.

My '05 for example, would hardly run with an aftermarket Cam, no matter how mild. The upgrade to the VDO ECU allowed us to tune, even with one of the more radical Cam options out there.

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Dinging the tubes is so over rated takes literally 10 seconds a tube and is such a none issue Its not not even funny how over blown this is made out to be. The only person who makes it a big deal is Mike the king of the non adjustable adjustable cam gear. Cat Cam 469 is what I would roll with great mid range punch. Point being the cams are all pretty much the same cost so might as well get the more aggressive one right away or maybe not be happy and do it over. Its your car and I have no idea on your skill set I do all my own work so changing a cam to me is fun and takes about 2 hours.

 

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-cat-cams...mm/1302469~cc/

 

Forgot something from the above Cam replacement tips.

-After you pull the rocker cover and upper motor mount, turn the Cam Bolt slightly counter clockwise to relieve the chain tension on the chain tensioner, not only will it give you the needed play for reinstalling the tensioner retaining bolt, the bolt itself is easier to get to with the motor mount and rocker cover not in the way.
-Also, the chain tensioner piston will need to be compressed to reinstall the retaining bolt.

Just thought I'd add this.
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Why are you torturing yourself financially if you have a $1500 title loan on your car?