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R50- No start/starter doesn't turn. Any suggestions please
Hello, I would really appreciate some advice. I have a 2006 mini cooper ( non supercharged ) R50 . This car has a manual transmission. This has been a ongoing struggle and I am at the point on calling a salvage yard to come tow it away.
Its a shame as the car is rust free and in very good condition. A brief history, a few years ago we could not get it to start, we figured the engine had locked up so we replaced the engine. Looking back it was a bad decision. The car has sat ever since.
If I connect a charged battery all the lights come on as normal. Turn the ignition key to power "on" everything lights up and appears to be normal . Turn ignition key to start/crank position and absolutely nothing happens. Engine does not crank over, starter doesn't click nothing ! except the power steering electric pump ( I think thats what it is ) just starts running continuously as if the car thinks its running.
Is this some faulty computer / module causing all this grief?
Is there a way to jump the wires in the ignition switch to see if the starter is in-fact operational.
Any suggestions, things to test or direction would be appreciated.
First, make sure that "charged battery" is fully charged. Like 12.6 V sitting on the work bench charged. Install it into the battery tray, make sure the cable ends are clean, bright, and cinched down properly. Check to make sure you don't have any obvious ground straps loose, like the one on the passenger side, upper motor mount area.
From Uncle Bentley: Try the other (spare) key - your daily key may be acting up, not uncommon on BMW keys. Then check the clutch switch. Then check for voltage at the starter terminal with the key in the Start position, as indicated below:
Last edited by user 7389739; 12-19-2019 at 07:00 AM.
Reason: additional relevant information
You might also want to stick a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley to see if the engine will even turn. It's possible that sitting all this time has locked it up.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like clutch switch connector pin 1 is ground, where you would want to verify connectivity to ground, pin 3 is power in, which should show 12V with the ignition switched to "on" (run) position, and pin 4 is output to the immobillizer (at its own pin 8), which should show 12V (?) when the clutch is depressed (or merely in need of a good cheering up...), 0 when the pedal is released. Either that or the other way around, but they should toggle. Could also check input to pin 8 of the immobilizer as the pedal is operated, and the immobilizer's starter terminal 50 signal, pin 1.
Somebody else should confirm this, as I haven't tried it myself, but I believe you can reach the 2 terminals on the starter motor with a very long screwdriver.
Make sure the car is in neutral.
If you short between the two, the starter should turn. This will work regardless of the ignition off/on or clutch switch. At least you can find out that much.
The clutch pedal switch is magnetic - one part has a habit of falling off - you can fool it with a strong magnet.
The fuel pump under the back seat should hum for a few seconds only. Pull the fuse for the PS pump temporarily.
Do you have the correct key? There is a tiny chip in the fob - if it's missing or doesn't match the one on the car, all the lights, windows etc will work but the starter won't.
I believe you can reach the 2 terminals on the starter motor with a very long screwdriver.
Make sure the car is in neutral.
If you short between the two, the starter should turn.
I thought about this, but given how tight the engine compartment is, would think there would be a fairly good chance of inadvertently shorting the hot terminal to ground. I looked in mine, I can't even see the starter from the top. Maybe pull the passenger wheel and fender liner to get access to do it safely.
Just wanted to thank everyone for your help..... you guys made a electrical dummy look like a super hero.
I unbolted the ground on the passenger side engine mount... it wasn’t really even corroded but I sanded the connections and reconnected everything up. The car now runs.
Pretty amazing. The car has been parked for probably close to 2 years and it now starts and idles sooo smooth. Thanks for taking the time to help trouble shoot this.
12-17-2019 | 10:30 PM
