R50/53 Replaced the engine, can't get first start
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 962
Likes: 37
From: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Replaced the engine, can't get first start
We've replaced the engine and we're trying to get to the first startup.
2005 MCS R53 manual transmission. Battery's been disabled for 9 months, key's have been sitting. Key FOB unlocks the doors as normal. Key's do not "ping" when brought close to the ignition.
As far as we can tell all the wiring is connected and solid. Fuses are fine.
No codes at this point.
With the key in the ignition and to on, the dash does it's thing like normal. Fuel pump can be heard.
Key turned to the ON position and we can hear a relay up in the engine bay, but no cranking on the starter. Persuaded the starter and no effect.
Tried jumping the car, but no different results. Battery could be a culprit, but jumping should have solved that (wouldn't it?)
Does anyone have any suggestions?
2005 MCS R53 manual transmission. Battery's been disabled for 9 months, key's have been sitting. Key FOB unlocks the doors as normal. Key's do not "ping" when brought close to the ignition.
As far as we can tell all the wiring is connected and solid. Fuses are fine.
No codes at this point.
With the key in the ignition and to on, the dash does it's thing like normal. Fuel pump can be heard.
Key turned to the ON position and we can hear a relay up in the engine bay, but no cranking on the starter. Persuaded the starter and no effect.
Tried jumping the car, but no different results. Battery could be a culprit, but jumping should have solved that (wouldn't it?)
Does anyone have any suggestions?
You've probably already tried this but since Mini's can be pretty power hungry @ start up, jumping may not have solved it, get a volt reading @ the starter when trying to crank it, will tell you if your getting enough power and also if you'r over drawing because of a bad starter, at the same time.
At least it will cover a few possibilities.
Good Luck
At least it will cover a few possibilities.
Good Luck
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 962
Likes: 37
From: Stoney Creek, Ontario
The original battery was only giving 9.5V.
We had a second battery giving 12.5 to the starter, but the result was the same.
Yanked the starter and tested it: works. Cleaned the starter.
I'm out getting a new battery whilst my brother continues on the trouble shooting.
The clutch sensor cable is in place.
Any other thoughts?
We had a second battery giving 12.5 to the starter, but the result was the same.
Yanked the starter and tested it: works. Cleaned the starter.
I'm out getting a new battery whilst my brother continues on the trouble shooting.
The clutch sensor cable is in place.
Any other thoughts?
What about the ecu... Did you check that? Keys are coded to the ecu usually for the immobilizer. Not sure if the new engine came with an ecu.. Try plugging the old one back in?
Or just double check the clips and also the ground wiring...very critical that ground wires are properly attached.
Or just double check the clips and also the ground wiring...very critical that ground wires are properly attached.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 962
Likes: 37
From: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Original engine (just rebuilt) and Original ECU's and keys.
New battery, no change.
Does anyone know how to get the keys to "chime" or "ping"? Or reset it for that matter.
I witnessed it happen once to one of my keys (previous to the engine being rebuilt). I don't remember it happening every time the key was brought close to the coloumn. Neither do it now.
New battery, no change.
Does anyone know how to get the keys to "chime" or "ping"? Or reset it for that matter.
I witnessed it happen once to one of my keys (previous to the engine being rebuilt). I don't remember it happening every time the key was brought close to the coloumn. Neither do it now.
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 962
Likes: 37
From: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Both keys when brought close to ignition (not inserted, but flat against) will cause the car to "chime" or "ping" or "ding" multiple times - but only with the driver door open.
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 962
Likes: 37
From: Stoney Creek, Ontario
Got it started. It was my fault.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.
1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.
Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.
1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.
Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
Got it started. It was my fault.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.
1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.
Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.
1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.
Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
Let us know how it goes with the break in. Just a bit of an advice to recheck your torques after XX amount of miles. Thats just me.
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