R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Replaced the engine, can't get first start

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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 07:48 AM
  #1  
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Replaced the engine, can't get first start

We've replaced the engine and we're trying to get to the first startup.

2005 MCS R53 manual transmission. Battery's been disabled for 9 months, key's have been sitting. Key FOB unlocks the doors as normal. Key's do not "ping" when brought close to the ignition.

As far as we can tell all the wiring is connected and solid. Fuses are fine.

No codes at this point.

With the key in the ignition and to on, the dash does it's thing like normal. Fuel pump can be heard.

Key turned to the ON position and we can hear a relay up in the engine bay, but no cranking on the starter. Persuaded the starter and no effect.

Tried jumping the car, but no different results. Battery could be a culprit, but jumping should have solved that (wouldn't it?)

Does anyone have any suggestions?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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You've probably already tried this but since Mini's can be pretty power hungry @ start up, jumping may not have solved it, get a volt reading @ the starter when trying to crank it, will tell you if your getting enough power and also if you'r over drawing because of a bad starter, at the same time.

At least it will cover a few possibilities.

Good Luck
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 08:04 AM
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Thanks BlwnAway

We're throwing a voltmeter on the starter now and going to check for 12v
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 10:26 AM
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The original battery was only giving 9.5V.
We had a second battery giving 12.5 to the starter, but the result was the same.

Yanked the starter and tested it: works. Cleaned the starter.

I'm out getting a new battery whilst my brother continues on the trouble shooting.

The clutch sensor cable is in place.

Any other thoughts?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 10:30 AM
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JAB 67
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When you say 'clutch sensor cable' do you mean the switch that requires that the clutch be depressed before starting?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 10:41 AM
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Yes, some have documented that it can fall off
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 12:06 PM
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What about the ecu... Did you check that? Keys are coded to the ecu usually for the immobilizer. Not sure if the new engine came with an ecu.. Try plugging the old one back in?

Or just double check the clips and also the ground wiring...very critical that ground wires are properly attached.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 12:26 PM
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Its the battery.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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Original engine (just rebuilt) and Original ECU's and keys.

New battery, no change.

Does anyone know how to get the keys to "chime" or "ping"? Or reset it for that matter.
I witnessed it happen once to one of my keys (previous to the engine being rebuilt). I don't remember it happening every time the key was brought close to the coloumn. Neither do it now.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 01:09 PM
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Both keys when brought close to ignition (not inserted, but flat against) will cause the car to "chime" or "ping" or "ding" multiple times - but only with the driver door open.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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RESET the ECU.

Its easy enough to do.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:14 PM
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Got it started. It was my fault.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.

1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.

Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2012 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jamez
Got it started. It was my fault.
1. My battery was bad (fixed that a few hours ago)
2. I powdercoated my engine mounts. The main engine mount bolts were not touching bare metal. Cleaned the surfaces and it started.

1 more brake to finish then have to purge fluids and take it for some engine brake-in runs.

Thanks everyone for your help. Quite a learning experience.
GREAT! i was actually looking at the diagram and was going to suggest to check for ground.

Let us know how it goes with the break in. Just a bit of an advice to recheck your torques after XX amount of miles. Thats just me.
 
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