R50/53 Electric Fuel Pressure Sensor/Gauge Install - QUESTION
Electric Fuel Pressure Sensor/Gauge Install - QUESTION
Hi NAM!
I've been having some weird fuel pressure issues. Last time my mechanic friend worked on the car he used a mechanical fuel pressure gauge hooked to the Schrader at the end of the fuel rail and mounted it to the windshield so we could see what was going on at key, idle and in various driving conditions. At that time a year ago we put in a brand new fuel filter, issue solved. Well something else weird is going on so I want to just install an electric sender / gauge combo so I can just monitor. This issue has come back On My F250 installing a fuel pressure sensor was easy because there was a spot that had a Schrader and I just unscrewed it (1/8" NPT into a fuel manifold and Schrader on the other end) and put in the sensor - over the years it has been super helpful as a diagnostic tool.
It appears that on the R53 fuel rail that Schrader valve is necessary for helping to bleed pressure out of the system AND it's integral to the rail. Have any of you installed a fuel pressure sender/gauge and if so where did you tap into?
Thanks!
Mitch
I've been having some weird fuel pressure issues. Last time my mechanic friend worked on the car he used a mechanical fuel pressure gauge hooked to the Schrader at the end of the fuel rail and mounted it to the windshield so we could see what was going on at key, idle and in various driving conditions. At that time a year ago we put in a brand new fuel filter, issue solved. Well something else weird is going on so I want to just install an electric sender / gauge combo so I can just monitor. This issue has come back On My F250 installing a fuel pressure sensor was easy because there was a spot that had a Schrader and I just unscrewed it (1/8" NPT into a fuel manifold and Schrader on the other end) and put in the sensor - over the years it has been super helpful as a diagnostic tool.
It appears that on the R53 fuel rail that Schrader valve is necessary for helping to bleed pressure out of the system AND it's integral to the rail. Have any of you installed a fuel pressure sender/gauge and if so where did you tap into?
Thanks!
Mitch
The Schrader valves is the correct place for checking variable fuel pressure since it reads after the regulator, and no, it does nothing else besides act as a bleed and pressure testing point. Since the Mini is s non-return style system, all the regulating is done via the vacuum regulator.
Just remember to pull the valve stem and the Schrader is a standard -4 an style connection.
Been running my gauge there for years.
FYI, if you tap in to the line itself, all you'll get is the non-regulated (non-varying) constant full pump pressure, which should be about 62 PSI.
Just remember to pull the valve stem and the Schrader is a standard -4 an style connection.
Been running my gauge there for years.
FYI, if you tap in to the line itself, all you'll get is the non-regulated (non-varying) constant full pump pressure, which should be about 62 PSI.
So the Schrader valve can just be unscrewed from the end of the rail? Did you put some kind of T fitting so you can still have the Schrader to bleed off pressure?
Thanks for the help.
Mitch
Thanks for the help.
Mitch
The Schrader valves is the correct place for checking variable fuel pressure since it reads after the regulator, and no, it does nothing else besides act as a bleed and pressure testing point. Since the Mini is s non-return style system, all the regulating is done via the vacuum regulator.
Just remember to pull the valve stem and the Schrader is a standard -4 an style connection.
Been running my gauge there for years.
FYI, if you tap in to the line itself, all you'll get is the non-regulated (non-varying) constant full pump pressure, which should be about 62 PSI.
Just remember to pull the valve stem and the Schrader is a standard -4 an style connection.
Been running my gauge there for years.
FYI, if you tap in to the line itself, all you'll get is the non-regulated (non-varying) constant full pump pressure, which should be about 62 PSI.
Simply remove the valve stem and attach a -4an female line or fitting to it. I use a -4an 90° female to male swivel like this:
To a -4an line, to the sending unit for the gauge, the 90° swivel helps with clearance issues from the I/C bracket.
For bleeding you simply place a towel or rag under the fitting and slowly crack it open, no big deal, there's only pressure for a sec or so.
This simple:
[url=http://[ame=https://flic.kr/p/2egp9MF]
[/ame]
Last edited by BlwnAway; Apr 25, 2019 at 09:49 PM.
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