I had a fender bender which took out my condenser and radiator Impact was about 3 mph and the object that it hit put a "V" into both items. After the hassle of replacing these items, I notice that my power steering pump now randomly works. If I leave my driveway at about 10mph it works great but if I go any faster the battery light goes on and the gauges and needle start to flicker. Power steering functionality is totally lost until I bring it back below around 10 mph. The speedometer also dies if I go over about 10 mph.

I am trying 2 known good batteries and the problem persists. Voltage with the vehicle running is between 13.8 and 14.2 VDC.

At one point though, the voltage with it running had spiked to 19 VDC.

Something isn't right here. Bad alternator or ECU etc?

The car sat for some time after the fender bender and the battery died. It is now killing batteries if the car sits for even a day or two.

I usually junk a car when it has electrical problems based upon previous experiences but wanted to check here first before doing that.

Thanks

 

UPDATE: So all that I have to do is rev the vehicle past 1200 RPM at idle and the gauges go crazy. The voltage goes from around 14.x VDC to around 18 VDC while this is happening. Such a pain, but at least this situation is consistent and easily verifiable.

 

It's sounds like an alternator issue, something in the internal voltage regulator may have shaken or broken lose.
I'd swap it pronto, over juicing the car like that could potentially cause damage to many systems, including the ECU.

Not to mention the alt. being very close to the contacted area, it could have even been physically contacted, as where the ECU is no where near there and pretty well protected from vibration and impact.

 

Thanks, wonder if I could have left a connector off down there when working. I replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses while in there and had the airbox out. I wish my memory were better.

Any fuses or connections to check before I replace the alternator? Hope it's not a grounding issue etc.

Oh yeah, the engine bay was disgusting so I pressure washed it, but I * think* it was acting up before then. I have never seen a vehicle as sensitive to getting electronics as this one though

 

Not really anything more to check than the actual alt. connections themselves, including doing an inspection on the actual pin connector itself and that it is locked in and tight.
It could be something as simple s a loose pin connector.

 

If the alt pin connector was loose....I would not think that the voltage would go to 18v.....on occasion ......but what do I know

Bryan

 

Thanks all, appreciate it. Guess it's time to pursue an alternator.

 

Have your alternator tested by a couple places.....don't just go and buy a new one without confirming yours is actually dead

Bryan

 

I was thinking about something that was kind of related. Almost read my mind there. I always wonder how much you can trust a parts shop with an incentive to sell you an alternator. I like the idea of heading to a few places. It always feels like they claim the alternator is bad when they want to sell you a new one but when it is time to exchange your bad one they claim it's good.

 

I have a little one man shop close to me here.....all he does is rebuild generators, alternators, & starters.....I trust him long before I trust an auto parts store....

I had a starter out of something here a while ago...I took it up to the auto part store for testing......he hooked it up and said it was bad....starter would spin but not engage.....so we ordered a starter.....it came in, I told him to test it before I left.....so he hooked it up, and it spun, but would not engage, just like the original one....

Turns out the kid hooked up the starter to the test bench wrong.....there was nothing wrong with the OE one that I had tested.....

Bryan

 

While not likely, it is possible that a bad pin connection reads as a low battery and causes the regulator to go wide open to compensate.
But most likely it is something internal.

I do agree with the other comments, get it checked for output, ground and continuity, (most auto parts stores modern testers will do this) before just buying one.

 

Guess I will try one out from Amazon. Easy return if it is not the alternator.

 

This still isn't quite adding up for me. Why would the charging system know to put out 13.8 vdc at idle but at 1500 rpm it is like ehhhhhh I can't stop myself. Why are the results so repeatable? I have been really beat up by charging systems in the past so curious.

Alternator is still ordered, but I'd be delighted to not need to install it lol.

 

 

Lol, I hit a 500 lb propane tank in my backyard. I work long shifts and I was tired. The cap was green just like the grass at night. I had just moved in. I guess things could have been alot worse. The point of impact was below the bumper.

Anyways, the alternator fixed the issue. I am very surprised. I usually don't have that kind of luck.

Thanks all.