A lot of you know about my car, a lot of you don't. I am going to make a new post with updated details on what is currently going on with the car, plus some back history of the car.

I will make a couple new posts. Ill divide it into stages. Stage 1 will be the supercharger build with the RMW 1.62L, Stage 2 will be the RMW 1.7L with the EFR8374 and the Stage 3 will be the current build that is going on. That is a 1.7L with a EFR 9174.

So here is

Stage 1

RMW 1.62L--RMW Pistons, RMW Rods, Stock Crank
RMW Head using new OEM rockers, RMW Grand Am cam
RMW header
OS Giken diff
RMW stock ECU tune
15% pulley
550cc injectors
stock intercooler
Stock exhaust from the header back
Clutch master stage 3

---Car made 260whp at this point---

Pistons and rods:


1.62L


Block ready for the head:


Header:


CAE shifter:


Eventful driving in the mountains:


Open header:


OS Giiken:




Burnout:

 

Stage 2

This is the 642whp build:

RMW 1.7L. 9:5:1 RMW pistons, Carrillo rods, sleeved block, RMW crank
RMW Head with RMW turbo cam, stock rockers
Quaife differential
Clutch Masters Twin disk
Insane shaft axles
JCFab custom turbo kit
EFR8374 1.05 AR T4 backside
Twin Tial MV-S gates
Water to air incooler
JC fab heat exchanger
JC Fab Radiator
RMW intake manifold
Valve cover dipped by Utah Hydrographics
MT 24.5 inch 225/50/15 drag radials (at first)
M&H 26 inch 235/60/15 drag radials (finished out on these)
Stock ignition coil and wires
NGK plugs gapped at .025
RMW 4 bar
Vipec i88 (same as a Link G4+)
FIC 2150 injectors
DW350 external fuel pump kicking on at 20psi
Walbro 450 intank primary fuel pump
-8 feed line
-6 return with a Ethanol sensor
RMW fuel rail
Stock trans
LOTS OF SENSORS for data logging
Ran and tuned on E78-E81 fuel by me.

When I dropped it off to Cole for fab:


Rods:


RMW engine built and ready to go:


Collector:


Exhaust Mani, and building the exhaust:


Mani with wastegates:


Radiator and heat exchanger:


Thermo housing:


Axles:


Block:


Sumped the fuel tank:


AN Fitting install on the stock hat:


Twin disk:




Pan with -10 return:


EFR8374:



DW350:




Solid state relay for the W2A water pump


Vipec all mounted and wired:


Flex fuel sensor, fuel pressure, and solid state for the external fuel pump:


The assembled engine bay:


Dipped valve cover:


FIC 2150's and RMW fuel rail and intake manifold


Hood dump:


First Fill up of E85:


Out driving around on gate boost (6psi)


Just doing street car thing:


26 inch tires delivered:


New tires next to the old:


The Bomber sitting in the garage:


26's are installed:






Did a battery box install:


Dipped valve cover installed:


Mounts:


Dyno Sheet:

 

Stage 3

This is where the car currently is. I am shooting for 800-900whp somewhere in there. I have finally started figuring out traction with the last setup so why not throw another 150whp at the setup.

After talking with Jan, we came to the agreement that the current 1.7L might not like 950hp at the crank. So we made the decision to pull the engine and send it back for some upgrades. No damage at all. As you will see in the upcoming pictures.

I also wanted the solid rocker setup, and A LOT more compression so that was the other reason for sending it back. Also wanted to check the bearings out and make sure everything was solid after the high boost runs, lots of limiter, lots launch control, lots of traction control, and LOTS of RPM 9k+. Everything looked awesome when pulled apart by Jans engine guy.

So I got to yanking out the engine:



Backside of complete engine:



Clutch:





EFR 9174






Backside of the engine after I pulled it from the car:


Under the valve cover:


Wrapped the ECU, it was getting a little warm with the last setup:


Sprayed everything down with WD-40 so that nothing would rust on the way to Jan. Pistons looked great, cyls looked great. RMW built one bad *** egine


Engine looks good. Bearings look good, even for running them out of oil at 9K when I had a loose oil pressure sensor. Cross hatch is still in the cyl. Crank spins free and nice.

Now just a slight bore for the new pistons, solid rockers, I need to send my modified OEM pump back to Jan so he can start getting this thing back together.

 

A bit of wear there. Looks like it got through the coating and was headed into the material. How many miles were this? Were you logging oil pressure? I would be curious to see the reasoning behind this.

 

I log a ton of data. Oil pressure is always logged, and safegaurds are setup to prevent it from rolling a bearing.

I lost oil pressure on pull at about 9200rpm. My oil feed came lose with vibration and emptied the pan. Engine shut down due to the safegaurd, but it was still in gear so it was deceling, as I tried to figure out why I had no power. Pushed the clutch in and took it out of gear and pulled to the side of the road. Then I figured out what happened with the whole back of the car was covered in oil.

 

Got it, that make perfect sense then.

 

Here you can see the back of the car covered in oil right after that. I tighted that fitting on the side of the road, buddy brought me some oil and I drove it to this spot that it is parked at.



At this point the engine had 5000-ish miles on it. I put another 1000 on it after this happened and before I tore it down. Oil pressure was no different from when I first started the engine. The stock oil pump also sucks at that high of a RPM. I have modified it though, so I am hoping that it gets better now, when I get the engine in the car. If not, I am going to go dry sump and rev it closer to 10K.

 

following...(thanks for posting)

 

Here is what the pressure looked like at idle right after the loose fitting problem. I first thought I broke the oilpump. This confirmed I didn't





This engine also I believe is the only W11 to ever see over 10K RPM

 

This was idle and a rev right after the fitting problem with the oil and car warmed up.





This was driving after the fitting problem and everything tight, and new oil in the engine.

 

Also as a testament to the RMW engine durability.

I had a injector come out of the rail. (This was before I setup the Lambda safegaurd) I ran it out in 3rd gear at 35psig at a 14 AFR, ZERO damage from that.

Injector came out because of the old mounts that were used for the rail, were kinda janky, they held the injectors in a weird angle also, so billet ones were made to fix that issue. Injectors are solid as hell now.

 

Following... FIRE thread!

 

Can’t remember where I first saw it, but I heard of this car awhile ago. Glad to see it on NAM. I’m curious: why are you doing this? Just for fun? Shaming Corvette and GTR owners? Why an R53 anyway? I assume you have a few other cars.

 

I like to go fast, and I like to be different. I have a built Evo already. I wanted to build something FWD, and non Honda. This started as the wifes car. We paid it off, and instead of getting rid of it, we just bought her a 4runner. So I took over the MINI, and figured out what I wanted to do. Jan had built them to do road coursing, but none that were really turbo as he didn't like the spool times. So I introduced him to the EFR, and we started making plans for the engine. I was going to build a fast road course car, but changed my plans and wanted a fast street car.

Now we are here. Tons of testing later, and trying to get traction on the street and I want to push what can be done on the platform even farther.

Plus yeah racing and killing cars that should be a lot faster sure is fun.

 

Was it you who shredded a couple gears? What have you done to build the transmission?

 

That was me.

I am making some parts. I don't want to discuss them yet, in case they don't work. Ill just say I am altering the oiling inside of the case, and working on getting sycros made. Other things also but I am keeping those close to the chest until they work out.

The trans seams to be just fine up to 500WHP. No worries at all at that level. Once you surpass that, things start getting iffy inside of the trans.

 

I see. And you’re running a pre-facelift trans with the taller ratios, right? Do you happen to know if it was just the 1st and 2nd speed gears + the ring gear that’s different between the two, or if it’s more than that?

Can you discuss what you’re doing to get the bottom end ready for 950hp? Isn’t your 650whp bottom end setup just stroked/sleeved with RMW forged goodies? Was it bored some or just honed?

 

I'll answer any question that I don't want to hold close to the chest at that point.

I am running the preface lift box yes. I believe that its 1-2 plus the ring gear. I will check when I get back home in a couple days.

Its a RMW stroker. So it has Jan's stroker crank and his sleeves. It is not a 1.8L though because we keep the bore smaller. So that makes it a 1.7L. The new engine isn't really new. The only thing we are changing on it, is the compression, who makes the pistons, and going to a solid rocker setup. So it will be: Smae RMW crank, Same RMW sleeves (bored a little for the new pistons), Mahle pistons, and Carrillo rods, same exact rods that were in the first 1.7L build. Just putting in new CARR bolts.

 

the block was originally prepped with our proprietary custom 12mm head studs and block work.........

 

**** forgot all about the headstuds.

 

This build is beyond insane! We need more videos!! I can't even begin to comprehend how you can get any sort of traction with that amount of power on a FWD car.

 

Look up Eva Bomber on YouTube.

It's taken some work to get traction, for the better part of the first part of getting it running it was lots of street pulls then adjusting based on the data and getting it better

 

Following.......wow

 

Anybody have any issues with making llabmik2 a member of the very prestigious NAM Hall of Fame? There is no higher honor.

And thanks for letting NAM in on this fantastic car that you get to drive and RWM got to build for you. The Monster of all MINIs and the God of all MINI Tuners.

 

This is awesome. Please keep posting.