R50/53 URGENT! Desperate Timing question
URGENT! Desperate Timing question
I was supposed to leave Chicago for LA 2 days ago for a new job. Then the death rattle came. All fixed but lost timing. Probably by only a few teeth.
Busted a timing guide rail. I pulled everything apart. Replaced both rails and tensioner. Pulled the oil pan and cleaned out debris. Went to start it back up and chug chug, no good. I thought I heard the chain jump when I was pulling the sprocket.
I don't have anytime to pull the timing cover or the gasket. I have the valve cover off again and I'm trying to determine my timing from the top end. I've seen several threads about using TDC and MDC for setting the cam gear.
I'm struggling and desperate for someone to talk me through this. Time is of the essence. Community Please rally on this one, my job and my family depend on it getting fixed tonight!
PM me if your willing to talk on the phone and I'll give you my number.
-Ash
Busted a timing guide rail. I pulled everything apart. Replaced both rails and tensioner. Pulled the oil pan and cleaned out debris. Went to start it back up and chug chug, no good. I thought I heard the chain jump when I was pulling the sprocket.
I don't have anytime to pull the timing cover or the gasket. I have the valve cover off again and I'm trying to determine my timing from the top end. I've seen several threads about using TDC and MDC for setting the cam gear.
I'm struggling and desperate for someone to talk me through this. Time is of the essence. Community Please rally on this one, my job and my family depend on it getting fixed tonight!
PM me if your willing to talk on the phone and I'll give you my number.
-Ash
Thinking you need to have the timing marks in the proper place on both the crank and the cam. Perhaps somebody will chime in on TDC and whether at that position the crank timing mark matches the chain.
Would think oil pump is front of the crank sprocket and behind the outer plate that covers every thing up. So then you would need to pull the crank pulley.
Also thinking that if you are sure the top sprocket is the issue, loosen the bolts holding the cam/lifter, loosen the chain, then move the cam sprocket back so that it lines up with the chain mark. Modmini has a good video on changing the head gasket so everything you need to do is in it, except I do not remember if he went over draining the chain tensioner.
Also thinking that if you are sure the top sprocket is the issue, loosen the bolts holding the cam/lifter, loosen the chain, then move the cam sprocket back so that it lines up with the chain mark. Modmini has a good video on changing the head gasket so everything you need to do is in it, except I do not remember if he went over draining the chain tensioner.
Solved!
Should anyone else ever stumble on this thread in the future, here is what I did. I'm not saying it will work for you like it did for me (but it should)
I followed the TDC (top dead center) method. Here are the steps...
1) Remove the valve cover (and everything else needed to do that.)
2) Pull your spark plugs
3) Place a long probe into the first cyclinder
4) Remove passenger wheel and wheel well liner
5) Use a socket wrench with extension to turn the engine from the crank
6) Slowly turn the engine until the probe raises up to its highest point, be accurate!
7) Remove cam gear, hang the chain with a bungee from hood
8) Double check your at top dead center
9) Replace the cam gear
10) Turn cam until the engraved line is parallel with the head, arrow points to front rocker bolt
11) Pull the gear and put the chain back on
12) Check your line and arrow allignment
13) Re-assemble and test.
A few things to note:
I kept the chain under tension so the chain and tooth alignment is as accurate as possible.
I thought I was just off by a few teeth, I was off by a 1/4 rotation. I finished this job and then drove from Chicago to LA, so it definitely worked for me. I'm not a mechanic, so zero guarantees.
Should anyone else ever stumble on this thread in the future, here is what I did. I'm not saying it will work for you like it did for me (but it should)
I followed the TDC (top dead center) method. Here are the steps...
1) Remove the valve cover (and everything else needed to do that.)
2) Pull your spark plugs
3) Place a long probe into the first cyclinder
4) Remove passenger wheel and wheel well liner
5) Use a socket wrench with extension to turn the engine from the crank
6) Slowly turn the engine until the probe raises up to its highest point, be accurate!
7) Remove cam gear, hang the chain with a bungee from hood
8) Double check your at top dead center
9) Replace the cam gear
10) Turn cam until the engraved line is parallel with the head, arrow points to front rocker bolt
11) Pull the gear and put the chain back on
12) Check your line and arrow allignment
13) Re-assemble and test.
A few things to note:
I kept the chain under tension so the chain and tooth alignment is as accurate as possible.
I thought I was just off by a few teeth, I was off by a 1/4 rotation. I finished this job and then drove from Chicago to LA, so it definitely worked for me. I'm not a mechanic, so zero guarantees.
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It might make more sense to just make a new post and give it a fresh title. The key aspect of this method is it can be done without removing the timing cover. So that would have to be worked into the title somehow.
As for the valves.... my understanding is the engine in the R53 is not an interference engine. So, even if the the timing was completely off it shouldn't hit the valves. That is not to say it couldn't cause some damage through compression, but I find that unlikely.
Again I'm not a mechanic so I don't know all the possibilities. I think it was 50% luck it worked for me.
As for the valves.... my understanding is the engine in the R53 is not an interference engine. So, even if the the timing was completely off it shouldn't hit the valves. That is not to say it couldn't cause some damage through compression, but I find that unlikely.
Again I'm not a mechanic so I don't know all the possibilities. I think it was 50% luck it worked for me.
Solved!
Should anyone else ever stumble on this thread in the future, here is what I did. I'm not saying it will work for you like it did for me (but it should)
I followed the TDC (top dead center) method. Here are the steps...
1) Remove the valve cover (and everything else needed to do that.)
2) Pull your spark plugs
3) Place a long probe into the first cyclinder
4) Remove passenger wheel and wheel well liner
5) Use a socket wrench with extension to turn the engine from the crank
6) Slowly turn the engine until the probe raises up to its highest point, be accurate!
7) Remove cam gear, hang the chain with a bungee from hood
8) Double check your at top dead center
9) Replace the cam gear
10) Turn cam until the engraved line is parallel with the head, arrow points to front rocker bolt
11) Pull the gear and put the chain back on
12) Check your line and arrow allignment
13) Re-assemble and test.
A few things to note:
I kept the chain under tension so the chain and tooth alignment is as accurate as possible.
I thought I was just off by a few teeth, I was off by a 1/4 rotation. I finished this job and then drove from Chicago to LA, so it definitely worked for me. I'm not a mechanic, so zero guarantees.
Should anyone else ever stumble on this thread in the future, here is what I did. I'm not saying it will work for you like it did for me (but it should)
I followed the TDC (top dead center) method. Here are the steps...
1) Remove the valve cover (and everything else needed to do that.)
2) Pull your spark plugs
3) Place a long probe into the first cyclinder
4) Remove passenger wheel and wheel well liner
5) Use a socket wrench with extension to turn the engine from the crank
6) Slowly turn the engine until the probe raises up to its highest point, be accurate!
7) Remove cam gear, hang the chain with a bungee from hood
8) Double check your at top dead center
9) Replace the cam gear
10) Turn cam until the engraved line is parallel with the head, arrow points to front rocker bolt
11) Pull the gear and put the chain back on
12) Check your line and arrow allignment
13) Re-assemble and test.
A few things to note:
I kept the chain under tension so the chain and tooth alignment is as accurate as possible.
I thought I was just off by a few teeth, I was off by a 1/4 rotation. I finished this job and then drove from Chicago to LA, so it definitely worked for me. I'm not a mechanic, so zero guarantees.
Can you give us a picture of this? I’m unsure of how to turn the crank after the harmonic balancer is off.
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