Hey guys, this is a continuation of this thread, except things took an even crazier turn. I never found out what type of tune the car had, but preceded to have the car inspected and then ready for purchase. It is an 06, with about 66,000 miles on it, was advertised as well maintained and in good condition, with the exception of a few hood chips. I talked them down to $7,200 from $7,500. The car is also a slicktop/LSD combo, so I was excited.

Then I got the inspection results back....brake pads, rotors, basically all done. 2mm left. Power steering pressure line leak, and rear tires with 4/32nds, and get a new belt. Okay, bummer, but would just use this to negotiate a lower price and fix myself.

Then the inspector told me about the engine codes (see attached). There were plenty, and no CELs. There was even a "VIN number edited" as it was explained to me by the mechanic, but everything checks out on the vin checker. Not sure if a motor blew and he got another? Now, this all would say "wreck/rebuild" to me, however they did comment the car looked to be in great shape, drove fine, no signs of anything rebuilt. Obviously someone may have just put it back together really well, but those codes are crazy. I'm almost more interested to know what those are from. Would the tune have anything to do with that? Of course I'm also considering other cars, but this is a slicktop/lsd, and well...just curious. Anyone with specific knowledge of those codes and scenarios please chime in! Thanks

 

I wonder if the codes are old codes that have never been reset. If so they are inactive and wouldn't trigger a light on the dash.

 

Sure, but what about the brake pad sensor? And what would cause the airbag codes other than deployment or disconnect?

 

Here is a thread where the 5E19 code was noted. You will see what one of the vendors here chimed in with.

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...db3-codes.html

 

How could I tell if the codes are "active" or not? Again, this is a car located several states away.

 

"advertised as well maintained and in good condition"

But it isn't, so just say no. Torn boots, cracked belts and almost no brake pads left says a not well maintained car.

I still can't get over a PPI for $59, you have a bargain going on where you live, I paid more than twice that the last time I had one done.

How could I tell if the codes are "active" or not?
Most OBD readers will have ways to read Pending, Current/Active, Historical/Stored or similar.

 

Walk away from this deal.

 

Walk away. On second thought, RUN! Well maintained, my @$$

 

An aftermarket LSD costs what... $1k? Either get a thorough stack of records with exactly what happened and what was fixed or walk away. It probably was well maintained, but in the last few years hasn't been - hence tires, brakes, belt. Doesn't want to put more money in it.

Also - Does the SES light come on when you first turn the car on? Possible they disconnected the bulb?

 

I have a 2006 LSD Slickroof with 66K miles with less issues I'd sell you for $7,500 probably...I just got it though and have been working through many of the same issues. They're pretty common. I'd probably clear the codes and see if they come back, but that said - you probably can't do that until you own the car.

Just be prepared - I racked up a good $3k bill within two weeks of owning mine...

 

LSD is about $1k plus install. They have provided dealer records from initial owner dealer. Not sure about the SES light. I researched a lot of the codes being thrown, and they interestingly match some of the codes this one is getting, usually have to do with either a wheel speed sensor or interestingly enough, a brake sensor, which this one probably needs. So I'm not as worried about the codes. Did a carfax, car is clean.

I dont mind putting new brakes on it. Was going to take it by Way Motor Works to have their tune put in, ridding the car of the "mystery 15%" tune that might be making it run lean. Would get belt replaced and perhaps the brakes as well, or maybe the brakes a few days later in Birmingham.

The car had run flats as well, which I would ditch anyway. So, I am honestly still thinking about it. It appears he just hasnt done the 60,000 mile maintenance, doesnt want to do it, and apparently has to pass some stake inspection in West Virginia in a few weeks.

 

Thanks, yeah, I think it needs a dealer tool I have read somewhere to clear the potentially inactive codes. PM'd you about the car you have and the details of what you worked on.

 

All I'm saying is $7500 is a pretty premium price. The issues it has, plus the potential for unseen issues with those codes, says don't pay $7500. Tires you're looking at $500+-, pads and rotors are probably $400, new belt is $50 and a headache. You're at $1k right there in addition to the purchase price. Tune is another $500+. PS pressure line is $250 in parts alone.

The codes may be nothing. It may be residual from a past issue that's been resolved. I'd definitely be looking into it more, though, and getting a very clear idea of what's going on before I drop that on a 12 year old car. There's other slicktops around, and LSD doesn't need to be a dealbreaker for the right deal.

 

It is, but it also includes the pro mini intake, borla exhaust, 15% pulley and ecu tune. I just cant find any other slick top/lsds either though.

 

So on the VIN Code Edit. My 2005 comes up most years as a generic BMW, mostly just zero's when I go get it smogged here in Oregon. Had to go to the dealer for them to reprogram the computers to show the correct VIN displayed all over the car. Theoretically it was fixed two years ago. I'll find out this weekend when I go get new tags for it.


The worn tires on the inside edge is due to the normal negative camber in the suspension.

The airbag is strange, there was a recall for the sensor on the front RIGHT weight sensor for 2005, not sure about 2006.


Unless you do all the work yourself, I'd walk from the car or talk them down a lot more.

 

It includes 2006 models. My very very late produced (7/15/2006) just got the recall done this week.

 

Edit: I didn't read the first linked thread so my concerns could have potentially been addressed already.

In all honesty, it sounds like you've made up your mind. I have a pretty high risk tolerance with cars as they're just machines, and if he has an explanation for the codes then I could easily look past them. I'd just look into it more than "it's probably just a brake sensor". If they can't explain what happened or aren't willing to cooperate, I'd probably walk. You might be walking into an absolutely fantastic car, but the *numerous* stored codes are more likely to be opening a can of worms without more information. Just know what you're getting into.

 

No worries. I haven't really made it up yet. I'm trying to to make an impulse buy, as I was already thinking about the car for awhile. The codes, if he didn't know, I understand, and they could be nothing. I'm more agitated about the whole "the car is in great shape" thing, when that was just a lie. Plus they got agitated when I was asking questions. So, I'm pretty much done. Plus the codes could be an issue. So, if another slicktop/LSD pops up, I'm in.

 

most of these old codes can be attributed to low battery voltage and using an inferior scan tool. If the car were to get to a mini dealer this is easy to address. Brakes and worn tires are nothing to prevent a "no sale". If you like the condition of the paint and if the car is rust free - there is nothing on your list that should scare you off. If anything, just work it into the purchase price and get a great deal. GLWTB and enjoy it!

 

On the rust, West Virginia like many other southern states brine their roads during the winter. Brine is a concentrated salt/water mix that they put down before any snow. I consider the stuff worthless relative to snow fighting (as 2" closes EVERYTHING down for a week) but there is no question in my mind that it works quite well at rusting the undercarriage.

I am thinking a shop would consider a minor amount of salt deterioration normal but the question is will the OP????

 

That was one of the main reasons I wanted the car checked was rust. Turned back no rust, everything in great shape. Now just thinking about what to do on the other issues.

 

I did not read all the comments here, but I buy quite a few Minis at dealer auctions and many of them have a bunch of unusual codes. Why? Because the batteries go dead, the auction and buyers continually jump start the typical dead batteries and when this is done, most Minis start showing all kinds of crazy codes. This means little, until you put in a high quality battery, clear codes, check when it is running, that it is making 14.0 to 14.3 Volts. Mini and BMW in general throw many bad codes due to the low battery, or bad alternator.

 

Sounds like borrowing a good battery, clearing codes, and an "extended test drive" would be in order. $50 for a tank of gas and pulling the battery out of your current mini would certainly seem like a drop in the bucket - assuming the owner allows you to put a few hundred miles on it in a day.