I will soon be dropping my subframe to do the LCAs (and axles, and ball joints, and...). In watching videos and reading virtually every subframe removal DIY that exists, I have yet to figure a reason to pull off the crush tubes before dropping the subframe.

I've had Minis in service mode in the past (too many times) and needed to pull the tubes to move the radiator forward, etc. But I see nothing that would stop the crush tubes from simply dropping down with the subframe.

I know it's only four large bolts and two smaller ones, but is it really necessary?

 

I just did this yesterday. I pulled them. But I don't remember why. It takes 5 minutes. Are you using impact wrench? I replaced all my ball joints, bushings, sway bar, steering bushing. Car is tight now. Took 4.5 hours. The biggest problem was removing stock bushing from the control arm and the bracket. Found using a sawzall to be the fastest. Cut a circle around the center to pull the bracket off. Then cut through the metal reinforcement to get the rest off the control arm and the same with the bracket. To push the new bushing into the bracket without a press. I used my hydraulic jack, a square of plywood, soapy water for lube, and the bottom of my jeep frame. Put the bushing on the bottom and press the bracket on to it. If you try the other way it will always misalign. Good luck.

 

I'm doing all of that, plus strut mounts, engine mount, P/S hoses, cam sensor O-ring... There's probably more, I can't remember it all now.

I bought a smaller impact gun (the kind ModMini uses) so that will help with time and effort on the smaller nuts & bolts, but not the big stuff. I've got the pre-pressed PF LCA bushings from Way, so I've got that going for me. Getting the old bushings off of the arms will take the most effort, probably. Don't have a sawzall but I figure I can drill a bunch of holes in the rubber and eventually cut and/or pry them off with some patience. I'm still getting all of the necessary tools together.

With a few more parts to do I know my stuff will take longer, but I was thinking more than a full day. 4.5 hours sounds great to me! Thanks for the tips.

 

If you got Kurt's Aircat then there's very little you can't get off with 1300 ft-lb!

Getting the bushings off the arms is fairly simple with a small pry bar, just takes a little patience. Try some penetrating oil.

 

Yeah, I wish I still had an inside space and my compressor and air tools. A workbench... Smooth concrete floors... I miss those good ol' days.

I have the pry bar on the way, so I'm figuring that should do the trick.

 

Kurt (ModMini) is a great resource. Several of his videos feature our two R50's. The subframe is way heavier than you think. Do yourself a favor, take the crush tubes off and save yourself a few pounds. Plus, then there's no chance of them hanging up on something up front.

Val

 

Great advice, thanks!

And yes, we couldn't do half of what we do without Kurt's awesome videos. I wonder if many of us know how big a PITA doing a video like that is... He's very generous to do them.

 

I tried a prybar and the penetrating oil. But it was way to slow. A $20 sawzall from harbor freight has paid for itself twice now.

 

Also a good option. I had used it twice on the housings without even nicking them and I didn't want to push my luck with the car repair gods, haha.

 

$20? Dayum, I'll have to look into that.

That sets a dangerous precedent, though. If I already had a sawzall, I might have opted to do the LCAs while still on the car, and not do what I'm doing now - what I <i>should</i> be doing - like replacing the worn suspension items. Once that's done, probably some minor work on the rear end, and the car will actually be like new again!