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Recently, I was presented the chance to buy a 2005 MCS in hyper blue with the lapsis blue interior (Sp?) 6spd manual, sport chrono, xenon lights to name a few of the options.
Its got a 107k on the clock. Clean title with a few minor accidents listed on the carfax.
Here is the issue its got a blown motor. I already sourced another motor thats low mileage and my buddies and I can do the swap. (We've tackled on a lot more than swapping a cooper motor lol)
Guy said he wants $2500. While that sounds fair. I think $1750-2k sounds even better.
I situations like this whats wise to do? Take the KBB value and subtract the cost of a new motor and the labor a shop would charge to install said motor?
Recently, I was presented the chance to buy a 2005 MCS in hyper blue with the lapsis blue interior (Sp?) 6spd manual, sport chrono, xenon lights to name a few of the options.
Its got a 107k on the clock. Clean title with a few minor accidents listed on the carfax.
Here is the issue its got a blown motor. I already sourced another motor thats low mileage and my buddies and I can do the swap. (We've tackled on a lot more than swapping a cooper motor lol)
Guy said he wants $2500. While that sounds fair. I think $1750-2k sounds even better.
I situations like this whats wise to do? Take the KBB value and subtract the cost of a new motor and the labor a shop would charge to install said motor?
Appreciate any advice.
Difficult to say. I just came across an '04 MCS in Lynnwood, Washington in very good running condition and he was asking $3950. That's not much more than the $2500 your contact wants for a non-running model. So, I guess it depends if this '05 is in excellent condition otherwise. Plus, what are comparable running models selling for in your region? That should help establish a baseline. Let us know how this progresses!
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Especially with "a few" minor accidents.....
I'd rather buy a good body, with ZERO accidents as a non-runner....
Simple fact is there are lots of these in the Cooper trim that have blown CVT transmission's...
If you want to rehab a non-runner....get the best body you can find....
Once you get it running...and find it pulls to oneside, or tires wear uneven... You are KINDA stuck...
In all honesty, I have seen decent running cars, that might just need a clutch with fewer miles... for more like $3500-4500, zero accidents, one or two owners....
Usually a car is sold for bluebook, minus repairs at retail, and a extra 10-25+% for risk....let's face it,motor might be blown...but tranny could be grind long, CV joints knocking suspension soft, etc...lots of stuff you don't know till it's running.
Me...I'd call it a sub $2000 car...nice options yes, but a motor swap is no guarantee of a perfect car...
An example: A good friend of mine had his 2004 MCS from new. Garaged every night. Never abused. A few well-considered mods. Spotless. 75k on the odometer. Got the bug for a Gen3 JCW. Dealer gave him $5k on trade and he took it; made me sick; I would have paid him more than that if only I had known.
Hey JTrem... I know the car you're talking about and I'm debating on making the drive to go get it tomorrow. If I beat you to it, can I have the source of your engine as well, please?
Fwiw, I bought mine as a non runner for $1700. Well optioned and 130k miles. Good interior and straight body. Only flaw was some scratches on the roof.
Fwiw, I bought mine as a non runner for $1700. Well optioned and 130k miles. Good interior and straight body. Only flaw was some scratches on the roof.
Hi David, did yours need an engine replacement or were you able to make repairs to the existing unit? What were the key problem areas that made it a non-runner? I bet there are some bargains out there for a few thousand dollars if the buyer can take advantage of articles and advice on this forum.
Bad big end bearing. Pretty easy fix if the PO hadn't driven it until the crank was worn below its limits. Discovered cranks were NLA, so had to find a good used crank.
Of course, once I had the engine apart I was not able to resist a few "improvements" :-)
Bad big end bearing. Pretty easy fix if the PO hadn't driven it until the crank was worn below its limits. Discovered cranks were NLA, so had to find a good used crank.
Of course, once I had the engine apart I was not able to resist a few "improvements" :-)
Sounds like an adventure, and a worthy one. Great list of mods. We have several people discuss the Borla exhaust. Some say too loud, others say just right. What do you think? Also, please post some pix if you get a chance.
Something fun to play with. Probably wouldn't tear apart a brand new Mini, but I've got nothing to loose on a $1700 project car. I don't find the Borla that loud. Definitely louder than stock, but the mini tends to have more squeaks and rattles anyway. Not as quiet as higher price point cars. Anyway, the few times I've been outside when the car went by it sounds awesome (I'm usually driving!).
The Borla comes in shippable pieces, so it has a couple of more pieces (and more clamps) than a dealer exhaust which requires a little more adjustment. Meant to add that I had to adjust it a couple of times after my initial install to avoid it contacting the body anywhere. One of those things where a little experience goes a long way. Definitely a lot of rattle/buzz when it was touching the body somewhere. Also was given a suggestion to use a little pure silicone sealant to help seal the joints and that cut noise some.
Last edited by David.R53; Apr 19, 2016 at 06:34 PM.
They would still have been available 3 years ago. That link is the R50 crank. I think the R53 has larger bearing diameters. I called a lot of dealers, even had it back ordered, and that went unfilled. No one knew if it was a temporary shortage or permanent NLA. Anyone tried to buy one recently?
Sadly, the R53 crankshaft was discontinued by MINI. The only option we can offer is a shortblock, which might solve a number of other potential problems in a unit and comes with a 2-year, unlimited mileage warranty. Please let us know if we can help!
About crank reconditioning - there are shops that specialize in this. I tried sending my damaged crank to a supposedly well known shop in Michigan, but it came back looking really sad. I didn't have the courage to install it - just assumed it would eat the bearings up in no time and I would be tearing it apart within a few days/months.
In retrospect, I think they are used to working on bigger displacement engines and had to rig something up for the little MINI crank. It would be good to learn about a machine shop that has experience doing this sort of work on a MINI.
About crank reconditioning - there are shops that specialize in this..... It would be good to learn about a machine shop that has experience doing this sort of work on a MINI.
And even more important now if we can't buy cranks at all... Kinda limits the next 10 years of restorations/rebuilds
Yikes. Yeah, went back and see the RMW billet cranks are $2200 for regular or stroker version. Just wishful remembering I guess. Too pricey to be a good alternative for engines that haven't been modified.
I guess another choice is to buy a complete used engine and part it out.
Yikes. Yeah, went back and see the RMW billet cranks are $2200 for regular or stroker version. Just wishful remembering I guess. Too pricey to be a good alternative for engines that haven't been modified.
I guess another choice is to buy a complete used engine and part it out.
Good point, the complete short block is $2675, not much more than the billet crank.
Description
MINI Factory remanufactured W11B16A Engine Block with Crankshaft and Pistons. This is the same unit installed at the dealership.
This is a fully assembled BLOCK with the crankshaft and pistons installed. Does NOT include cylinder head or oil pan.
Fits:
2002-2006 R53 Cooper S Hatchback (including JCW models)
2005-2008 R52 Cooper S Convertible (including JCW models)
Factory remanufactured engines come with a 2-year unlimited mile limited warranty from MINI. Diagnosis for warranty claims must be performed by a MINI dealership
