Hey guys,

i have a 2002 R50 One, and I have some problem with the clutch. Could you please help me to identify the cause of the problem?

- 1 weeks ago the shift in 1st gear (or reverse) was not so easy as before, but it was possibile
- today i was in the city and the problem is rapidly changed. If the engine running, I can't shift to 1st gear. I need to stop the engine, set to 1st gear, and start. The pedal feeling is not really changed, it's stayed hard.

Do I need replace the whole clutch (disk, plate, bearing), or is this a slave cylinder problem?

I'v checked the master cyl and there where no bleeding. I've made a video from slave cylinder, i cant see any bleeding, and for me it looks good. (i've pushed the pedal on full way 4-5 times)


I have no idea what I need to change. Any help would be appreciated.
rendetlen

 

When you do a clutch in your car you will need to have the flywheel either resurfaced or replaced, and use a new clutch friction disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing, and throw out bearing guide tube.

Pull the boot back on the slave and see if you have fluid leaking into the dust boot, if so then try just replacing the slave and bleeding the system.

You'll need:
Resurface your flywheel (if applicable), or buy a new one.
New clutch kit (friction disc, pressure plate, hardware, and throwout bearing)
3 quarts of fluid (75-90)
Possibly a slave, I haven't seen many of the Midland transmissions needing slaves.

We have also seen the relay lever become worn out enough that it causes similar issues to what you're describing with shifting.

Number 11 in the picture, Part number is 25-11-1-504-207

 

I have an R53 but had the same symptom of not being able to shift with the engine running. When I dropped the transmission I found many pieces of throw out bearing.

 

does your clutch pedal still have resistance?

 

From our tech article clutch replacement recommendations: When doing a clutch job, it's always a good idea to replace the rear end seal on the engine at the same time and also replace the throw-out bearing, flywheel bolts and pilot bearing. You should also replace the clutch release fork and the master/slave cylinders at the same time for added insurance. If you are re-using your flywheel, you should have it re-surfaced so your new clutch seats correctly. We have just clutch kits and even clutch super kits HERE that have just about everything you should need for the job.

 

And the throw-out bearing guide sleeve.

 

Thank you all of yor help.

I've removed the gearbox, and I'm not happy to see this:

 

oh snap!!! no pun intended.

 

Did you remove the transmission yourself? How long it take?

 

Yes, I followed this guide:

Disassembly takes ~12 hours, but this is my hobby, I'm not professional. Normally it takes 1,5 hhours for pro