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I've heard that there is a little bit of adjustment you can do for the toe-in / toe-out on the rear tires. I've never really messed with it, but I'm thinking about playing around with the toe setting on the rears a little bit. How much adjustment do you actually have? Is there an eccentric bolt you turn to accomplish this? Any info would be great!
Also...what's a good toe-in setting for the rear tires on a daily drive car? Should I just keep them at the stock toe settings?
The rear toe is adjusted by sliding the Trailing Arm in sloted holes. There are three bolts that are loosened, the arm moved, and the bolts tightened. There is a special BMW tool for doing the adjustment but it can be done by trial and error without the tool. Measure, loosen, adjust, tighten, measure, and repeat.
Many alignment shops will not adjust the rear toe because they say it requires a special tool. The alignment shop that I go to does it without the tool but said it was a pain in the butt the first time the tech did the rear toe adjustment (took him about an hour but I have a GP which makes it harder to access the bolts). When the bolts are tightened the toe tends to change a little making it a little guess at where to adjust before tightening. After doing the rear toe a few time, the tech is much faster.
If you install aftermarket adjustable rear control arms, the toe can be adjusted using the control arms instead of the trailing arm bolts.
Also if you don't have an alignment rack....or the faintest clue of proper alignment I wouldn't suggest it.
Only reason I do my own is I have a digital laser rack
If you don't....don't bother
The rear toe is adjusted by sliding the Trailing Arm in sloted holes. There are three bolts that are loosened, the arm moved, and the bolts tightened. There is a special BMW tool for doing the adjustment but it can be done by trial and error without the tool. Measure, loosen, adjust, tighten, measure, and repeat.
Many alignment shops will not adjust the rear toe because they say it requires a special tool. The alignment shop that I go to does it without the tool but said it was a pain in the butt the first time the tech did the rear toe adjustment (took him about an hour but I have a GP which makes it harder to access the bolts). When the bolts are tightened the toe tends to change a little making it a little guess at where to adjust before tightening. After doing the rear toe a few time, the tech is much faster.
If you install aftermarket adjustable rear control arms, the toe can be adjusted using the control arms instead of the trailing arm bolts.
I went for my alignment today and they couldn't get the toe within specs even with the adjustable camber links...
I went for my alignment today and they couldn't get the toe within specs even with the adjustable camber links...
Unless you do both upper AND lower adjustable links, you won't be able to adjust your toe-in on the rear. Did the alignment shop know about the slotted bolt holes on the rear arms that adjust the toe on them?
Get its aligned at a MINI dealership or someone who knows how to align a MINI.
The points are those three screw on the rear trailing arms and for newer year with the rear concentric bolt and tool. Check the rear taillight arm connection for the large bolt. If no adjustment then you have the older design trailing arms.
The eccentric bolts on the lower control arms only adjust camber, and will only do so about 3 times before they're not eccentric anymore and leave you in need of adjustable arms.
Toe is adjusted via the 3 bolts at the front of the trailing arm (or adjustable upper control arms), stock is .20 I run 0* toe-in in the rear and -1.8* camber on my DD and it handles fine without diminished tire wear.
Don't mess with any alignment angles without a proper alignment rack, you'll be up the creek without a paddle real quick.
Unless you do both upper AND lower adjustable links, you won't be able to adjust your toe-in on the rear. Did the alignment shop know about the slotted bolt holes on the rear arms that adjust the toe on them?
No they didn't. I went to a different NTB and they refused. I'm going back to the NTB and see what they can do. I'm thinking about getting a refund because I bought a 5 yr unlimited warranty and not everyone will honor it! I'm in the military and I move a lot. This will be a waste of money.
The eccentric bolts on the lower control arms only adjust camber, and will only do so about 3 times before they're not eccentric anymore and leave you in need of adjustable arms.
After they have been adjusted over a handful of times they lose the ability to really adjust the camber properly, usually leaving you further out of spec than you originally were.
After they have been adjusted over a handful of times they lose the ability to really adjust the camber properly, usually leaving you further out of spec than you originally were.
How do they loose there ability to adjust camber? If they are eccentric spacers that the bolt goes through....do they turn not eccentric? Doesn't make sense to me. Can you show me a picture of one of the eccentrics that is worn out?
