Hey guys... I've had my Zimmerman rotors and ebc pads on the back for about 2 years now and man... pads are paper thin and the rotors are wore down to where there is a lip on the edge from where the pads have set. Is this a normal thing? seems like the rear pads wore faster than the front!!! I'm picking up a set of Zimmerman rotors and hawk hps pads today but I just thought it was weird... could the rear brakes be dragging or something? thanks!!!!!

 

dragging or sticking the wear would be different from side to side on the pads.


been driving with the ebrake on?


or potentially just actually have a good pad and rotor combo when they both wear out at the same time

 

If wear is even...you are fine..if one side if the pad is thicker...might be getting stuck...activate the parking brake and release a few times, looking at where the cable connects...if the cable goes slack..caliper might be sticking.....got a rebuilt "centric" branded caliper...
I just replaced my rears (Zimmerman) that had ebc blacks (OEM semi-metalic equivelts)..that were worn about 50%....rotors (soft like OEM) were grooved pretty heavily, and one caliper, my right rear rotor(bet it saw more roadsalt and water) was sticky...
Ended up getting centric premium on the rear, and centric premium high carbon for the fronts with akebonno pads...very happy after a few miles for beak-in.....did take a few miles to firm up, but nice clean wheels, Zero dust, so good daily driver pad.

 

never driving with the ebrake on... lol. I've just never seen a brake pad wear down a rotor about an 1/8"

 

and I thought front brakes wore faster than rears?!!

 

P.S.
Adding new pads to lipped rotors will be noisy...just toss new rotors on...

 

Gen1 cars with DSC tend to need REARS faster...lots depends on the drivers style...but have heard mechics say this too...heck chad at DT has said it a few times...
Actually got 85,000 on the fronts (lots of highway), but only 55,000 on the back..down to the backers..

 

I guess that would make sense, ecu sending some braking towards the rear?

 

+1 on sticking brake cables, corroded on the inside. Does not take much and they drag. Using the rear parking brake all the time also uses them more.

We have new sets : Get the kit and do both left and right , when you change pads and rotors.

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/34406777400/




Thanks

 

That's what i'd say...
So maybe with a tight fast turn, the DSC is activating the rears a bit to keep it planted, even help rotation a bit.....even only activating one side of the rears....think of making a 90° turn at speed...
DSC can help you do some amazing stuff that just is not possible with a single brake pedal...it is even better when "adjusted" by a tuner so it does not reduce engine power (as much) when you loose traction...the stock 50% power reduction is just WAY too aggressive, but my RMW tune with the dsc adjustment is perfect IMO!!
DSC was an "upgrade" to the asc+t that was standard most years...and IMO is generally well worth it!!

 

My MCS does not have DSC. It has AST only yet my rear brakes do wear at a rate that is faster than the fronts. Can't blame this one on the DSC nanny.

 

okay so I got the Hawk hps pads on as well as new Zimmerman rotors... what are the tricks for seating the REAR pads?

 

I'll +1 the ebrake cables as well. Had to replace both cables on my 05 MCS with 100k. Worth looking into and can be a cheap fix if the parts are bought from the right places. I've pretty much stopped using my ebrake if I have a choice. I just leave it in gear.

 

Thanks guys.. just to be safe, i went ahead and ordered the new cables. My mini has 155k on her so I might as well! I just rebuilt the supercharger w/ 17% pulley a few months ago as well as it was due....... and just ordered a stratmosphere exhaust and DDM CAI. What's 70$ at this point? LOL

 

Before starting the job of replacing the Hand Brake Cables... Take a deep breath and relax...

Yea, it can be a bit fiddly...

Motor on!

 

How did the charger look inside? I have heard so many rumors of them just turning to dust. I've got 110k on mine now and I'm always worried that a big $ repair is going to slap me in the face.

 

my gears on the inside literally had turned to dust... I ended up buying a rebuilt one with water pump and did the work all myself but it's worth taking apart and checking the oil in it NOW if you're over 100k!!!!! Trust me...

 

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ercharger.html
Another thread on the subject...
Comes down to how you value your time....refilling may only get you WEEKS of running in exchange for 5 hours of work and $100+ in gaskets......cause if the oil is low...the seals are bad..