R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Tie rods

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Old 07-02-2014, 08:05 AM
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Tie rods

I've noticed there is quite a difference in pricing for tie rods - OEMS for around $65 and $106 from some other suppliers mentioned here. Popular outside supplier has them, from Beck, for $128.
Any opinions?
 

Last edited by bcgreen; 07-02-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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Old 07-03-2014, 11:57 AM
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Lemforder for $65.
They're OEM. The only difference is the box they come in.
 
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbean
Lemforder for $65.
They're OEM. The only difference is the box they come in.
Ordered, thanks.
If you've taken a tie rod assembly off before, did you have a 34mm wrench in your tool box? That's the only hang-up for me because that's not a normal size wrench I would normally carry.
 
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Old 07-03-2014, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bcgreen
Ordered, thanks.
If you've taken a tie rod assembly off before, did you have a 34mm wrench in your tool box? That's the only hang-up for me because that's not a normal size wrench I would normally carry.
I have a set of these which is what I used. One of my favorite hand tools in the toolbox.
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1...500&artID=2999
 
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Old 07-03-2014, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mrbean
I have a set of these which is what I used. One of my favorite hand tools in the toolbox.
http://www.knipex.com/index.php?id=1...500&artID=2999
Looks like regular pliers except those curved nose ones.
 
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Old 07-03-2014, 06:41 PM
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Very different from regular pliers. Try 'em.
 
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Old 07-03-2014, 08:33 PM
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This is going to sound kind of crude, but a pipe wrench works pretty well on tie rods. I changed them on my buddies while the subframe was down and it was quite easy. Make sure to order a new set of boots.

The knipex plierswrench are pretty nice too, i've been eying them for a while now.
 
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by mrbean
Very different from regular pliers. Try 'em.
They must be pretty narrow to get in there. They look like channel locks. I have a couple of channel locks, do you think those would work, considering they look very similar?
I have someone coming by the house tomorrow who useto be a mechanic working on Minis, so he will have something to do the job. Will let you know what he suggests. At least I don't have to shell out money for a tool I will use perhaps use once.
 

Last edited by bcgreen; 07-04-2014 at 10:02 AM.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by matt922
This is going to sound kind of crude, but a pipe wrench works pretty well on tie rods. I changed them on my buddies while the subframe was down and it was quite easy. Make sure to order a new set of boots.

The knipex plierswrench are pretty nice too, i've been eying them for a while now.
I don't want to take down the subframe if I don't haveto. Knowing my luck if I did go that route, I might run into another problem, especially since I haven't done this job before, I don't know what problems might crop up.
 
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:42 AM
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Okay, I had the mechanic bring over his Snap-On pliers to get to the nut.
He accessed it not through the gap, but over the top. The pliers look like long handled chanel locks. There was just enough wiggle room to break the nut. So that's how he useto do it.



In order to remove the old tie rod, you need to access the large ball joint under the boot. The easiest way to do this is through the gap between the control arm and the subframe. With both hose clamps removed, pull the boot back and turn the steering wheel to position the nut in between the gap
You will need a thin, 34mm open end wrench to remove the tie rod end. Unfortunately, a crescent wrench wont work here unless you also unbolt the inboard ball joint from the subframe and also the outboard ball joint from the wheel housing. This will allow you just enough room to slip a crescent wrench or a standard width open end wrench in.
 
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