R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Snapped Strut Pinch bolt

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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 09:56 AM
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Snapped Strut Pinch bolt

Spent the weekend installing new struts/springs and camber plates and snapped off the driver's side pinch bolt in the process. Still dropped the assembly enough to install the camber plate so I'm running on three new struts and one with 96K on a camber plate. I wasn't afraid to drive it because that bolt was ultra-seized so i doubt it's going anywhere but wanted to see if anyone has just drilled it out and ran a grade 8 bolt/washers and Nyloc in place of the factory setup? After searching it seems prone to failure and this would solve the issue.

I saw that most replace the knuckle which i can easily do but I bought the car from IL so everything is rusted to ****. I know that i will want to replace the tie-rod end, hub, and lower ball joint if i put a new knuckle on, thus me now really wanting to get into that just yet. Mainly looking for the size people have drilled the hub to and what bolt they used.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:17 PM
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Which side is busted?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by shrevemini
Which side is busted?
Driver's Side.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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If you need a knuckle let me know. I have an extra drivers side in a box. I bought and did not need.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 02:59 PM
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When I busted mine, I drilled out the balance of the bolt with gradually larger bits (until nearly the size of the bolt) then I was able to remove the last portion of the bolt with a chisel and retapped the hole to size. Took some time and a steady hand but it worked. This was one of many snapped bolts on my rusted 03
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by shrevemini
If you need a knuckle let me know. I have an extra drivers side in a box. I bought and did not need.
No kidding? How much are you looking for?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1qwkmini
When I busted mine, I drilled out the balance of the bolt with gradually larger bits (until nearly the size of the bolt) then I was able to remove the last portion of the bolt with a chisel and retapped the hole to size. Took some time and a steady hand but it worked. This was one of many snapped bolts on my rusted 03
God i wish I had your patience! I may try it but I would likely rush it and toss in a Grade 8 - 1/2" bolt with a nyloc. If i can get a deal on a knuckle, i may go that route. At least I know I'm not the only one with a rusted mini... Probably the only one in Southern CA lol.

Rear control arm install is next and they've proved to be a ***** to remove already...
 
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Old Apr 7, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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i had to drill both sides on my car. drilled it out to the size where only the threads of the bolt were left, then used a pick to get them out and then chased the threads of the knuckle with a tap.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 09:06 AM
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Crazy... Maybe i will get some metric drill bits and a M12 tap and give it a whirl then. I just thought it would be easier to use some Dewalt Ti Bits stepping up to 1/2", then throw in a 1/2" x 3.5" with a couple washers and a Nyloc.
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 12:53 PM
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stepping up to 1/2", then throw in a 1/2" x 3.5" with a couple washers and a Nyloc.
That is exactly what I did when I snapped my driver side pinch bolt. On the passenger side, I just spent a VERY long time going at it with an impact wrench (though less time than it took to drill out the old bolt).
 
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Old Apr 8, 2014 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ageofoctane
That is exactly what I did when I snapped my driver side pinch bolt. On the passenger side, I just spent a VERY long time going at it with an impact wrench (though less time than it took to drill out the old bolt).
Yup, think I'll go crazy trying to drill it carefully enough to drill out the bolt. Think I'm going to bore it to half inch. Bolt is readily available, it's more reliable and all i need are some bits and some ATF to drill it.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 11:07 AM
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What a nightmare.... Even with cutting oil and 60-80 RPM drill speed on Ti bits, i managed to break a drill bit into the bolt. Now, replacement is my only option. I bought a used knuckle and pinch bolt for $70 shipped in great shape so no worries there. I would like some guidance on the removal of the Brake calipers, hubs, and axle. Tie-rod end is easy and lower ball joint requires some force but should be straight forward. I have heard there are Torx bolts that retain the calipers that are notorious for stripping and the ABS sensor and Axle are known for seizing into the hub. I have begun soaking everything in PB blaster already, just want to know if anyone has any tips/tricks for hub/axle/ABS sensor or Brake removal. Thansk!
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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I snapped the passenger one on the weekend doing a coilover install on my 04 R50. I happened to have picked up the front knucle assembly for that side for the wheel bearing from a local scrapper the day before but I was still without a bolt. I just used a 3/8"-24 bolt. It just has to clamp it shut. I used a standard nut with red perminant loctite untill i can get either the proper bolt or a nylock. the bolts are $16.50CDN from BMW so I may just do a nylock. If it ever needs to come out again I dont want the same Headache.

Cheers.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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I am getting a new pinch bolt so no worries there. I'm in SoCal and anti-seize everything so i do not see myself having the issue again with the factory bolt.
 
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Old Apr 25, 2014 | 10:06 AM
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Just to update, started working on it last night, Brakes, hub and tie-rod are all off with the axle supported. Of course, last thing is that the Speed sensor is seized in . Bolt came out fine but messing with the speed sensor broke it in half. Not re-using that knuckle so i don't care. Ordered a new one off eBay for $12, should be here next week and I'll button up the installation!
 
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Old May 1, 2014 | 09:31 AM
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So do not buy cheap wheel speed sensors! installed it and drove, after 100 feet, the lights all turned off and the brakes felt spongy... like there was a LOT of air in the lines. I messed around with it for 30 minutes of VERY unsafe driving until the lights came on again. Must've demolished the sensor or something. Now that the lights are back on, car drives perfect. Was trying to avoid spending the $80 ECS wanted for the sensor that was $12 on eBay; i now know why it was $12.
 
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Old May 1, 2014 | 01:07 PM
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I don't see why you couldn't get away with a hardware store bolt. I definitely just broke one too. I wouldn't try drilling it again without a drill press. I tried using a hand-held drill in a vice. I had a tough time tracking the hardened bolt with the drill while carving through all that metal. Even with stepping the drill bit size I went off course and ruined the knuckle. $60 bucks at a junkyard for one that was brutally removed.

The second side (which looked worse) I used a propane torch to draw in a bunch of penetrating oil and expand the knuckle metal around the bolt. It then came out pretty easily with an impact.

Also, with the wheel speed sensor--I hit them pretty hard using an extension and mini sledgehammer since I didn't expect them to survive--they did. I cracked one almost in half when I did something stupid not related to their removal. Glued it back together with some epoxy and to my complete surprise it is functioning normally.
 

Last edited by burritolikethesun; May 1, 2014 at 01:18 PM.
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Old May 9, 2014 | 03:52 PM
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Delphi ABS sensor installed with the new knuckle, struts and tie-rod ends (also seized). Just got back from the alignment shop, this thing drives like a brand new car even with 98K, all is well and I'm loving the car again.

Things i've learned: Don't buy cars from the East Coast, Don't use cheap eBay parts, DON'T drive on the freeway after replacing tie-rod ends and having no idea how to align the car, 1" toe out is bad for handling.
 
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