Hey guys. I've got a 2005 MCS R53 with 105k that I plan on doing some work on soon and would like to know what is recommended to change/inspect while I'm in there.

I want to do:
coolant flush
change sc oil
install sc pulley
install new (smaller) belt
sea foam
spark plugs (cooler)

I've got an oil leak and I think the CPS sensor is somewhere around here that I can change out the gasket on, right?

What about:
hoses (fairly certain i'm going to do them just because it'll all be drained)
thermostat
thermostat housing
waterpump
what else??

Do I have to use MINI coolant? Anyone have some firm data/experience on this and not just "well my uncle always says...".

Thanks for the help!

 

All the big stuff goes together, because it all requires you to tear the front of the car off. Civilized people call this "service mode"

Really though, changing the super charger oil will require the most stuff to be taken off the Mini. While in such a situation, you could do the whole list minus the seafoam - that would have to wait until the car is back together.

Water pump is on the hidden end of the super charger, which makes it convenient to change while doing the SC oil. Draining and removing the radiator makes doing the SC oil easier to get to.

The pulley, belt and colder plugs should be done around the same time. They probably don't have to also be done when doing the SC oil, but again, you certainly are given maximum breathing room while the rest of the car is in pieces.

 

well...

If you insist on doing the SC oil, then the waterpump is pretty easy at the same time....if the oil is low..the seal in it is BAD, and you need to rebuild it anyway..ZERO SAVINGS IMO...just more work...if you left it on till the gears fail, many rebuilders do new gears anyway....your car, your choice

When you do the SC pulley...you should do the belt, plugs and IMO a new Tensioner with you miles....

thermostat and hoses....if you do that, FLUSH the cooling system...many times it is forgotten...and the inside of your CAST IRON block corrodes..and the flakes end up blocking your heater core (if the corrosion does not take out your head gasket first).

My suggestion, use MINI/BMW coolant...sold full strength, is blue...
I have found it is cheaper than the others that don't meet the oem spec...
but if you use something else, use a HOAT formula(the oem is, but there are many versions..most any "long life" sold now is a HOAT)) coolant..NOT DEX which is a OAT formula...with a full flush you SHOULD be ok...but remember...MOST CARS have a aluminum block, not cast iron now...coolants are formulated with this in mind....

One more tip...er..suggestion...
Know your limits. There are a few threads a year where folks dig too deep into their cars...and get them together...only to have issues related to the work they did. A DIY is USEFUL, but only gives you a guide...what to do with a stuck bolt, or what to look for on a component to decide if it needs to replaced is NOT included...
You can do a water pump change...spend 8 hrs..and install a o-ring gasket wrong, and have to redo everything!!
Folks tend to have good intentions on maintaining their cars...but best to go slow...
Do a quick search, look up INSPECTION 1 and 2...then make sure that BASIC stuff has been done BEFORE you do tons of EXTRA stuff!!

 

Thanks Zippy. Will totally take the advice. However, I'm willing to deal with the consequences if I'm the one to mess things up. I understand the importance of the parts I'm replacing and the risk ($$$ and life) associated with improper replacement/repairs. That said, I'm extra careful in the garage making sure things feel right and seem right and following certain procedures. I've mentioned it in another thread but prior to doing my subframe removal to do FCAB, sway bar bushings and ball joints, I had only ever really replaced my wheel hub and prior to that has been oil changes. I bought this car with full intentions to use it as a learning tool (and drive it of course!) so even if I did mess up, I've only got myself to blame and something to learn. I've got a Bentley from the library while doing big jobs and I've got the TIS disc as backup along with really good googling skills :D

I totally thought I had written it but new belt and cooler plugs are a definite on the list as well... already have them.

I guess the SC oil is a peace of mind kinda thing. No noises or anything. The water pump is a 'while you're in there' kidna thing but I'm not sure if it's really necessary (I feel like it's one of those 'could fail now, could fail in 50k ' kinda things).

And yeah, firechief... seafoam is just the icing on the cake but I figured I would do it with the old plugs and then swap them out after the foaming commences to keep them clean. Overkill or not a bad idea?

 

I should mention that the subframe removal was quite successful and I'm way glad I did it myself even if it was a bit tedious at times for a total noob. It helps me understand how someone who's never done a job could be confused or hung up on something and I'm always willing to give back the tips and tricks I've learned while doing it. (ie my parking brake cable removal/reinstall writeup thats pending approval :D )

 

Ok update. Here's what I've got:

confirmed:
sc oil
sc pulley
drive belt (smaller)
spark plugs (cooler)
oil cooler (think mines toast)
lower rad hose
upper 2 rad hoses
water pump
coolant (g-05)
CPS o-ring
tstat w/ gasket
tensioner
oil/filter (due to contamination)

to do before work: check low speed rad fan

to do during work: check pulleys for play

am i missing anything!? thanks for all your help

 

After having changed my transmission I have to say that lowering the subframe was the worst part. Every bolt was seized and it seemed like I would never be done.

Minus a few hiccups, everything went better than expected from there of course.

As for adding to your list:

Poly sway bar bushings
Poly steering rack bushing
Super Damper Crankshaft pulley

 

I don't intend on lowering the subframe on this next job however I'm with you and I'm so grateful for impact guns.

Did OEM sway bar bushings on my subframe drop, not unhappy with the steering rack (and again, not doing a subframe drop), and unless I think something's wrong with the stock pulley, I'm going to leave it as I've got quite a list on my hand already but will consider it when it's time for a replacement.

I guess the goal is to do more maintenance work and not so much upgrade work (except the pulley which I already had and have been putting off).