I didn't mark my mounts as far as the positioning and I think it's wrong :/
can't find ONE picture with a glimpse.... does anyone know??

 

I don't think that you need to on an R53, I'm sure that dint marked mine either, are you taking about where it meets the body right? I think you only do that on an R56 you do you think that they are wrong?

 

yeah where it meets the body...hmm.
my prob is at rest the dust cap is above the cutout and the mount is stretching already (brand new mounts) and when I turn the wheel... the strut is moving front to back inside the rubber bushing

 

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

Figure 14 it's an R53 and # 34 is for an R56 are they aftermarket mounts or OEM?

 

That's very odd, try posting a video or several photos to have a better idea if the mounts are aftermarket maybe they are the wrong ones, I'm assuming that you torqued the struts before remounting them

 

aftermarket from oreileys.... I have a set of meyle mounts coming in tomorrow. So frustrating... :/

 

I tightened them... how would I use a torque wrench tho when I have to hold the Allen in the middle to keep the strut from spinning?

 

Sorry to hear that, hopefully someone could chime in but I think that your problem may be that they are the wrong ones. Have you road test yet? Are the mounts cracking on top?

 

yeah they are STRESSED. I drove it and the squeaking make me go to a mechanic to diagnose. I just hope that almost is, is a bad or wrong mount. (same bolt pattern tho)

 

Yeah the bolt I think it's 21 mm I can't remember how I did torque mine up, but there is way to do it, although in my case the replacement bolt was a 22mm instead so that made it challenging

Did you use the special BMW socket or the spark plug socket with the Allen key?

 

spark plug socket with the Allen key!!

 

I'm trying to remember, I think that if you search Kevin Khuevo how to.. On google I think that he shows how to do this I'll see if I can find it

 

Here you go.

http://www.minicooperspeed.com/mini-...-installation/

Torque the shaft to 22 ft-lb using a 5mm Allen socket on a torque wrench in the reverse position while holding the nut with a 16mm box end wrench.

 

Well I broke the struts down and off again tonight (3rd time) switched off the o'reiley pieces of crap and tossed on the old ones till the new ones come in tomorrow. Both struts seem okay still... no warping, and when fully compressed they rebound smoothly (a little slow but... they reach the full extension) So it has to be these crap mounts. The ones that were on here originally... bushing is flat. The oreileys have a recessed slope which in turn is less rubber... I'll let you guys know tomorrow night

 

I have done mine, they were both cracked. I recommend replacing them in pairs. As one id bad it will not be long till the other is. On the Gen 1 MINIs they just bolt into place as the holes have very little to no adjustment ( Unlike the Gen 2 MINI ). Unless someone modded drilled out the holes a little. Also After install I recommend getting alignment done, most likely at a MINI dealership or someone who really knows how to align it, not just front wheel stuff. Like above use a box end / socket and the allen mentioned above to get to the center top nut.

Check the upper strut mount or also called the guide support, you will see cracking in the rubber in a ring between the strut mount center and the metal hat.

#1 in the diagram



Guide Support / Front Strut Mount - 3/2002+ R50 R52 R53


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31306778833/



The Caps are part #3 in the diagram if you are missing one. Part # 31311139453

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31311139453/ES49917/




&


Early MINIs in gen 1 had a different mount: -3/2002 . R50 / R53 models. Part # 31306758309


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31306758309/






Thanks and hope that helps.

 

Rather than replace the poorly made oem with another poor quality part go with a set of IE fixed camber plates. You aren't going to wear them out & you'll gain much needed negative camber. Win win!

 

Dumb question... how do you get the nut back on the tie rod? the shaft is spinning with the nut and I don't see a way to hold it with a wrench

 

Counter-hold the tie rod ball joint with a hex wrench and torque the new self-locking nut to 52Nm (38 ft/lbs.) as you tighten the nut, it will seat the ball joint in the steering knuckle.

Credit to Pelican Parts.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm

You could also place a jack with a block of wood underneath but I don't think that's a good method lol

 

+1 ,

You will need to get a allen socket w/ ratchet or hex wrench. I like to use allen socket and ratchet better. And a Box end wrench for the nut. I would clean out the top hole if there is crud in it do the hex / allen head will fit all the way down in. I have seen people strip them then have to C clamp the top of the stud to the bottom of the tie rod to get the nylon lock nut off. Then torque to spec with the new tie rod and nut.




The nuts have nylon washer in the nut so it will not back off.



Thanks and good luck.

 

okay I got that back together, LEFT side is done. My only prob now is the fkn bolt on the new strut mount somehow is stripped out and the nut won't turn on the one post. May have to drop a weld on it to permanently secure it to the mount so I can tighten it and put this all to rest.

 

Sorry that the project has become such a pain.