Getting ready to pull the trigger on ordering Power Flex -Lower Control Arm Bushings.

I have an '05 MCS, quickly approaching 80,000 miles.

I had thought that I would replace inner and outer ball joints, since I'll be in there anyway. This adds about $200 to the cost.

Considering that I don't have any funny noises from the front end, it doesn't pull to either side, and just from driving it feels fine to me,... I'm thinking maybe I don't "need" to replace the ball joints.

Any input as to how many miles ball joints usually last on a MINI?

How could I check or test the ball joints before I order parts?

I'm thinking to lift the car, support it on jack stands, then take a lever or something and see if the ball is loose in the socket of the ball joint, or if it's nice and tight. Will I have room to do this without disassembly?

 

I just went ahead and had the ball joints done while doing the bushings.
A little more money but I did not want to be in there again.
WayMotorWorks is a good source for advice and the parts if you are unsure.
Way will spend as much time on the phone with you as you need.

 

On the outer tire rod when you turn the wheel an go over bumps you can feel it. In the steering wheel at just the right angle like almost at full turn.

On the ball joints visually if the boot is split, or you see grease coming out from the boot leaking. Those are the visuals. Sometimes you can hear them clunk if they are bad enough.

If you are down there and taking the lower control arm out , its good insurance to replace them as they are key pivot points for the suspension. When I replaced the lower control arm rear bushings I just replaced all the ball joints.

Removal of the out ball joint can be a little tricky, the tapered head tends to stick. Soak it down with a penetrating oil and let it set.

Ball Joint Left ( inner ) 31106779437


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31106779437/



Ball Joint - Right ( inner ) 31106779438


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31106779438/




Ball joint Outer . One per lower control arm. 31126783443


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126783443/



Thanks.

 

I appreciate the replies. Yeah I think it's best just to replace them while I'm in there. I don't want to cut corners. I've done them before on other cars I own. I hope the tool I have will fit, cause I know they can be a bear to remove.

. I'm also going to hammer out the little but of mushrooming I have, and put in Craven Strut Tower Defenders, and Under Tower Indurators.
After this job is done, I'll take it to get an alignment

Having it align perfectly is a big concern for me. I don't think it's far off now (drives straight) but one of my tires doesn't look like its wear marks are right on- and I attribute this to the LCA Bushing being so worn.

 

Make sure you have a set of metric Allen head sockets to hold the top of the threaded part. And a good box end metric wrench and soak them down and you should be good.



Thanks

 

It's also a good idea to try to pick any dirt or rust that may accumulate over time in the Allen head cavity so as to make sure your socket gets a good grip inside there. May just help you from stripping it out and causing you a big headache

 

Both good tips about the alen-head, and dirt. Thank you both.

Fortunately I bought a good set of complete metric sockets, box&open-combo wrenches, Allen keys etc. Just recently got torx inside and outside sockets. Since Dad moved, I longer have his shop nearby, and am slowly building my own. Maybe next year an air compressor and some tools -though it seems we can do most things without air tools.

Motor on -and wave!

AlexQS

 

I'm getting a clunk from my right front at random times. Dealer said a while ago that my control arm bushings could be replaced but that there would be no other symptoms other than maybe some slack in the steering, which I haven't experienced. Could bad control arm bushings make a clunk that sounds like something is about to go very wrong?

 

when i had the whole front end apart i did not change the ball joints. and i had 130k at the time. i moved them around and they felt tight still. bad joints would be if you could move it with out much force and they were loose.

 

There is the inner and outer ball joints, if good ( see inspection above ), the next suspect is usually from the outer tie rod. Inspect the boot for split and you can feel it in the steering wheel also when turn at certain angles. I recommend replacing them in full sections because then tend to seize up on the adjustment thread and then a job to separate ( if bought with just the end with the bushing ).

I don't know what year you have, there was to 5/2003 production : 32116780785 left & 32116780786 right side part numbers.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32116780785/



&


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32116780786/






And the 5/2003 + production: 32116777521 Left & 32116777522 right side part numbers

Tie Rod Full Section - Left Side


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32116777521/



&

Tie Rod Full Section - Right Side


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/32106777522/




For the control arm bushings ( rear ), look at the mount. If the rubber bushing is cracked, then its likely the suspect. 31126757561 left & 31126757562 right , part # control arm bushing with mount.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126757561/



&


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/31126757562/



And if you are looking for just a bushing upgrade we do have the Powerflex version, while fixing the front (rear) bushing on the control arm. Press in type.


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-101X2/





OR the Black series for something tighter PFF5-101BX2


http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/SiteSearch/PFF5-101BX2/




Thanks and hope that helps.

 

Hi guys,

I'm new and in the same situation, need to change rods, bushings, arms... the whole 9 yards.


I'm wondering if there is any difference between buying OEM and buying Aftermarket when buying these parts?



https://www.ecstuning.com/Search/Sit...aign=postreply


Many thanks!

 

Hello MinEff, main difference is some come with additional hardware.

 

Ive also read the powerflex bushings are supposed to last a lot longer than oem

 

Yes, as stated above, Powerflex bushings HERE are a great investment as they help prolonged tire life, improve performance, give your MINI better handling and they are more cost-effective than OEM bushings. Otherwise, we have OEM and Genuine parts for your suspension overhaul here. Good luck!

 

You replace them Powerflex and you should not ever have to do it again

 

Thanks guys! All the items have been ordered and on their way (Thank you PelicanParts! & ECS) I must have spent $700 so far on the mini, but I did buy it for $1500 so I cant complain!

Its a 2005 Mini Cooper S with 170k.




Bonus, my first car was also a mini i bought for £20!

 

Im in the same boat.. I dropped my subframe to do my clutch and noticed I had a outer ball joint with a busted boot on one side and a inner tie rod busted on the other.. Soooo I just replaced EVERYTHING and for the price you cannot beat it....

 

You are welcome. Thats a great deal even with those miles. Like the Classic , looks like you have Minilite wheels.

 

Based on my own experience let me add that if replacing OE LCA bushings with new of the same, it is probably not necessary to do an alignment. If replacing OE LCA bushings with Powerflex you MUST do an alignment.

 

I just drove my car this morning after finishing the Powerflex bushing install and my steering wheel isn't quite straight anymore. So yeah, definitely need to do an alignment.

 

How fast my MINI burns through tires anyway, it good to get an alignment on these cars with change outs.