Hello all!

I have purchased an R50 (Merlin) a couple weeks ago and while it is super clean and in very good shape, I want it to drive as good as it looks! As such, I am hoping to get some work done on it. I have determined that there are a few minor problems with the car but I do want to consider the cost of replacing/fixing/tuning up certain other parts to make it drive like a dream again. Merlin has nearly 100,000 miles.

Can anyone tell me what I should expect to pay on average for the following parts/services? I've never had to replace these parts on other cars and don't want to get screwed.

1. Replacement hub assembly (I think I have wheel bearing noise in at least one of the front wheels.)

2. Motor mount replacement (clicking noise under the bonnet occurs when engaging/disengaging the clutch and seemingly rocking the engine)

3. Wheel balancing

4. Tuneup (plugs, wires? cabin air filter? anything else?)

5. Alignment

6. Clutch replacement (seems to be slipping a bit :-\ )

7. Alternator replacement? (seems to be an uncommon whirring noise that I can't pinpoint other than alternator)


THANKS everyone for your help!!



Here's a pic of Merlin. He no longer has egg yolk side indicators. :D

1. Replacement hub assembly (I think I have wheel bearing noise in at least one of the front wheels.) This is about an hour of labor.

2. Motor mount replacement (clicking noise under the bonnet occurs when engaging/disengaging the clutch and seemingly rocking the engine) Depends on which motor mount, but again each one can ususally be done in less then an hour.

3. Wheel balancing- $15-25 per wheel is normal

4. Tuneup (plugs, wires? cabin air filter? anything else?) Do this yourself and safe the money. These are very simple even if not mechanically inclined.

5. Alignment- $59-109 seems to be the average.

6. Clutch replacement (seems to be slipping a bit :-\ ) This will depend on where you go. Call around to a MINI dealership and then a MINI specialist. Figure $1500-2000

7. Alternator replacement? (seems to be an uncommon whirring noise that I can't pinpoint other than alternator) This noise could be the idler pulley and is cheap to fix. If it is the alternator this could be including the part upwards of $800.00 again call around to different repair shops.

These are all my estimates and opinions.

Nice r50 btw.

I cant give the price of the service but I can give you the parts we have.

What month/year production is your R50?

Thank you guys for your help!

ECSTuning: I know its one of the later 2006s-- Not sure my build month, but my VIN is WMWRC33556TK70398. Does that help?

I was talking with my brother and he said that if it feels like a motor mount is bad, then it may not be the clutch actually. He also made me realize that the clutch isn't slipping, because the RPMs are constant with the velocity. Basically what's happening with my clutch is when I start out in 1st, during the friction point as I am taking off, I get a shakiness in the car, as if I am going over big rumble strips slowly. Does this make sense?

Yes,

Looks like you have a 7/2006 R50

7/2006- http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/31226776162/

The motor mount can be one of three things. Did you check the motor mount on the passenger upper side, if it is leaking black oil residue , then that's your culprit.
If not then its your lower engine mount or transmission mount. The lower mount can be seen under the car and you will notice cracking or separation of the rubber on the rear larger bushing.

Upper engine mount: OEM MINI 22116778610
http://www.ecstuning.com/22116778610


Upper engine mount: OEM MINI 22116756406
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/22116756406/



Transmission support mount: OEM MINI 22316765337 Manual transmission.
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/22316765337/

Maintenance : We have kits for those. Plugs, wires, coil kits


http://www.ecstuning.com/Mini-2006-Cooper-R50-Base-Coupe-L4_1.6L_W10B16A/Maintenance/Engine/3




Cabin air filters:
Click the picture.


Alternator:

I would check the accessory belt tensioner first.

MINI Oem part number : 11281482199

http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11281482199/


Thanks and I hope that helps.

Hello again, all!

From the first time I posted in here to now, I had to give up my garage at my apartment here in Chicago because my landlords wanted to rent it out and I didn't want to pay for it. Long story short, it's illegal to work on your car in the street, so I had to bring it in to my mechanic.

Got a few things replaced:

Tune up (plugs, wires, filters)
Remove and replace engine oil pan gasket
Oil change
Remove and replace right wheel bearing - part of the hub assembly
Remove and replace clutch
Remove and replace slave cylinder, RF axle, ball joints
Remove and replace accessory belt tensioner
Remove and replace power steering line from reservoir to power steering rack

So most of this work was done prevent future problems and wow, the clutch now feels SO nice compared to before... But I really did want it to drive "perfectly" again However, two of the problems do not seem to be fixed and I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction:

There is this whirring low toned vibration that makes itself present at 50mph and gets louder at 60 and then louder at 70. I haven't paid much more attention to the vibration after passing 70mph because I want to be safe and pay attention to what's in front of me. The vibration seems to be coming from the front of the car and does not get affected by engine speed, so if I were to take it out of gear when I'm driving, the vibration remains. It also doesn't change pitch depending on speed; it's always the same. I can feel the vibration in the car too, not just hear it. The 2nd weird thing is that if I'm coming to a quick stop and I have to quickly push the clutch in before I get a chance to take it out of gear, the engine speed gets very low for a split second, despite the fact I have the clutch pedal all the way in. The behavior seems like it should only happen if I were to come to a stop without pushing the clutch in soon enough.

So to sum up, if anyone could point me in the direction of considering something else that might be wrong that would cause this weird whir-vibration and the delay in clutch disengagement, I would greatly appreciate it!

Thanks,
Chris

Vibration- Check the wheel bearing again and wheel balance if they rotated the tires. Clutch- maybe there is air still in the slave cylinder.

Thanks, I'll suggest that to my guys when I bring it back on Friday. :-\

Did you check the wheel bearing on the other side ( left ), possible that the other side is on its way out since you changed the front right and now can hear the left side making noise?

For the clutch possible from the bleeding / changing of the slave cylinder. You have to bleed it a couple times to get all the air out.

Thanks and good luck