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Yep, something's wrong with your car. If you post the dyno plots, I'll be able to tell if it's belt slippage. Even on a stingy dyno, like our Mustang MD250, you should show a lot more that 172.
There was some slippage on the dyno runs as you can see from these graphs. It was making 15 psi, we changed the belt and it went to 16psi, however 1 psi won't make a massive difference to the hp, maybe 9whp?
So I'm wondering even with the fixed belt whether something isn't right. As after I fixed the belt I did not notice an increase in power via the but dyno!
You have shown torque and fuel/air. It would be more informative in diagnosing belt slippage if you could instead show torque/power. Either way, I don't see clear evidence of the belt slipping in the shape of that torque curve. It looks like either the dyno operator is beginning the datalog at a very low rpm (sub 2K) or else the car is bogging at the beginning of the run. My guess is the former. You're not going to get any real benefit from starting the pull from such a low rpm. From 3k to red line (I see that you ran two pulls to 7.2k) the shape is what I would expect. The torque numbers are not way off. What was your peak HP number.
There is most definitely something wrong. I don't have the cam or the injectors and I'm getting 200 fwhp from Trackrat. You should be getting 220+ with your set-up.
I looked at the power curve and it doesn't have the tell-tale look of a slipping belt, either. Check your belt and replace it: it's cheap, but I don't think that's your problem. One interesting thing would be to datalog to see what your boost level is. You could do that on the street with a OBD2 datalogger, like the Bavarian Technic tool.
16psi with the data logger after changing the belt. Maybe I should do a compression test, although it felt string before doing any mods. Perhaps I messed up cam install too...
16psi sounds about right. If you have significantly deteriorated compression, you'd probably be throwing a P03XX code of some sort or you'd be consuming oil severely.
Recent spark plugs? Any ping? What octane fuel? How many miles on the motor? Injectors...are they re-drilled?
That HP seems low...
Then again....the guy that was on the dyno before me had meth, a cam, and 450, and a 17 and did 170...
I went next with a stock exaust, jcw 380's, and a 17%... i did 200 hp...I was happy with jan's job...he was like..with an exaust you could have hit 205, maybe 210 if you had bigger injectors...
your torque number seems a tad low as well. I wonder if your a half a tooth off on cam timing, not enough to throw a code, but enough to affect performance,
compression test wouldn't hurt
also what wheels and tires are you running? very heavy wheels will rob some power
What will timing off show up as in a compression test?
How do I retime it? Can I leave the cam bolted in and move the chain around the top and bottom sprockets? I believe I have to remove crank pulley and cover to see bottom of the chain?
Can I just hold back the tensioner and move the chain to correct location? Does engine need to be TDC when I do this or can I just put the chain copper links opposite the marks top and bottom?
I like the off-a-tooth theory. You'd be down about 25 hp but not misfire and show consistent compression cylinder-to-cylinder.
Remove the spark plugs, pop off the valve cover, set the engine to MDC with the factory tool, and us a long quarter-inch extension as a feeler gauge to measure the position of all of the pistons. If #2 and 3 are not the same as #1 and 4, there's your problem.
I like the off-a-tooth theory. You'd be down about 25 hp but not misfire and show consistent compression cylinder-to-cylinder.
Remove the spark plugs, pop off the valve cover, set the engine to MDC with the factory tool, and us a long quarter-inch extension as a feeler gauge to measure the position of all of the pistons. If #2 and 3 are not the same as #1 and 4, there's your problem.
Sorry to be a pain, you have been hugely helpful. MdC is?
So number 2 should be same position as number 1 and 3 the same position as 4?
MDC: Middle Dead Center. It's the position that you put the motor when removing timing components such as chains, cams or lifters. For your purposes, you're really going to need the tool. It can be done without it, but precision dictates that you get it right.
The MINI engine's crank configuration is setup a little like a (twin) two cylinder motor. Cylinders 1 and 4 move in the same position, and 2 and 3 move in unison. Hold your hands in front of you and make two thumb-n-pinkie hang ten signs. Now rock them back and forth like a California surfer with your two thumbs moving up and down at the same time. That's how your cylinders move.
MDC: Middle Dead Center. It's the position that you put the motor when removing timing components such as chains, cams or lifters. For your purposes, you're really going to need the tool. It can be done without it, but precision dictates that you get it right.
The MINI engine's crank configuration is setup a little like a (twin) two cylinder motor. Cylinders 1 and 4 move in the same position, and 2 and 3 move in unison. Hold your hands in front of you and make two thumb-n-pinkie hang ten signs. Now rock them back and forth like a California surfer with your two thumbs moving up and down at the same time. That's how your cylinders move.
Best description ever! I love it
Is the tool I need the cam locking tool or another one?
