R50/53 My R53 feels vague, wandering at speed
My R53 feels vague, wandering at speed
Hi guys,
(I've also posted this over at TotalMini ...
)
I've got a 2002 R53 with 90k in the clock that hasn't really felt 'right' since I got it. My sister has a 60 plate Cooper D that granted, is much newer, but gives that 'go kart' feel that everyone describes. Its nice and tight and handles well.
In mine, on the motorway, I've got no confidence going over 80mph, it just feels all over the show. And on fast 30mph right hand turns, it feels like the front end is clunking/hopping - but there isn't a clunking sound, it can just be felt through the wheel.
When driving down a road, you can basically turn the steering wheel about 2 inches each way and it will continue in a straight line. You can feel the wheels move, but it doesn't seem to change the direction of the car.
So I've been on a bit of a mission to figure out why mine feels so vague and loose by comparison. Since I got it, I've replaced ...
Front inner ball joints
Front wishbone rear bushes
4x 215/35/18 Uniroyal Rainsports
Annual 4 wheel alignment
The car still doesn't feel any better/different after this. So I figured maybe the original suspension was finished. I bought some Koni FSDs based on the rave reviews for them. I fitted them today and it hasn't changed a thing. The (lack of) comfort and handling is exactly the same as before.
When I was changing them, I noticed a drop link boot was split, but no play in it. But otherwise, everything else feels solid, and I can't spot any play anywhere. I've ordered new drop links and will fit them next week.
I had the top mounts off today and there was very very little movement in them. I can only assume that the tiny amount of movement there was, was merely to account for camber.
I'm now at a total loss as to what to do next.
(I've also posted this over at TotalMini ...
)I've got a 2002 R53 with 90k in the clock that hasn't really felt 'right' since I got it. My sister has a 60 plate Cooper D that granted, is much newer, but gives that 'go kart' feel that everyone describes. Its nice and tight and handles well.
In mine, on the motorway, I've got no confidence going over 80mph, it just feels all over the show. And on fast 30mph right hand turns, it feels like the front end is clunking/hopping - but there isn't a clunking sound, it can just be felt through the wheel.
When driving down a road, you can basically turn the steering wheel about 2 inches each way and it will continue in a straight line. You can feel the wheels move, but it doesn't seem to change the direction of the car.
So I've been on a bit of a mission to figure out why mine feels so vague and loose by comparison. Since I got it, I've replaced ...
Front inner ball joints
Front wishbone rear bushes
4x 215/35/18 Uniroyal Rainsports
Annual 4 wheel alignment
The car still doesn't feel any better/different after this. So I figured maybe the original suspension was finished. I bought some Koni FSDs based on the rave reviews for them. I fitted them today and it hasn't changed a thing. The (lack of) comfort and handling is exactly the same as before.
When I was changing them, I noticed a drop link boot was split, but no play in it. But otherwise, everything else feels solid, and I can't spot any play anywhere. I've ordered new drop links and will fit them next week.
I had the top mounts off today and there was very very little movement in them. I can only assume that the tiny amount of movement there was, was merely to account for camber.
I'm now at a total loss as to what to do next.
So I got under the car again today. I checked ...
So I'm left with two issues. The potential play in the control arm bush - and a subframe bolt that is threaded. Obviously, this bolt needs fixing - but I doubt its responsible for my issues.
Threaded bolt

The bolt in question is the one above the socket. I'll do a bit of searching to find out. But is it a captive nut behind it in the chassis leg/floorpan? Or is it merely a thread cut into the leg? If the latter, I'm guessing helicoil is the fix - and if its the former, I guess I'll have to cut a hole in the floorpan from above to re-weld the nut.
Control Arm Bush Videos
So I took a bunch of videos to let you guys say whether the play in the control arm bush is a normal amount of movement - or if its excessive. I was levering the wishbone with a 2ft bar - with moderate pressure.
There's no separation of the rubber and metal sleeve. So although there's a bit of movement - it does look to be normal, right? And if I grab the wheel at 3 and 9 - there's no movement at all. It certainly doesn't audibly clunk or knock when driving. But 30mph right hand turns on uneven road do produce a clunking feeling through the steering wheel.
So 2 questions.
1. What is the best approach to fix the threaded bolt?
2. Is the movement on that bush excessive?
- Inner ball joint bolts torque ... Okay!
- Subframe bolts torque ... 5x were torqued correctly, 1x (rear, offside inner bolt) seems to be threaded!
- Track rod end play ... None at all
- Outer ball joint play ... None at all
- Inner ball joint play ... None at all
- Front control arm bush play ... There might be some
So I'm left with two issues. The potential play in the control arm bush - and a subframe bolt that is threaded. Obviously, this bolt needs fixing - but I doubt its responsible for my issues.
Threaded bolt

The bolt in question is the one above the socket. I'll do a bit of searching to find out. But is it a captive nut behind it in the chassis leg/floorpan? Or is it merely a thread cut into the leg? If the latter, I'm guessing helicoil is the fix - and if its the former, I guess I'll have to cut a hole in the floorpan from above to re-weld the nut.
Control Arm Bush Videos
So I took a bunch of videos to let you guys say whether the play in the control arm bush is a normal amount of movement - or if its excessive. I was levering the wishbone with a 2ft bar - with moderate pressure.
There's no separation of the rubber and metal sleeve. So although there's a bit of movement - it does look to be normal, right? And if I grab the wheel at 3 and 9 - there's no movement at all. It certainly doesn't audibly clunk or knock when driving. But 30mph right hand turns on uneven road do produce a clunking feeling through the steering wheel.
So 2 questions.
1. What is the best approach to fix the threaded bolt?
2. Is the movement on that bush excessive?
any history on the car? Rebuilt wreck? lowering springs?
The 2 inch steering wheel play certainly points at a MAJOR issue..ever have it looked at by a pro....sometimes a second set of eyes helps tons.
The 2 inch steering wheel play certainly points at a MAJOR issue..ever have it looked at by a pro....sometimes a second set of eyes helps tons.
It went through an MOT less than a month ago without fault, and was also looked at by a second garage prior to an alignment - without comment :(
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I posted some links on YouTube but they're awaiting moderator review.
Have a look here, www.YouTube.com/blessani
Have a look here, www.YouTube.com/blessani
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