R50/53 "EP" on odometer '06 MCSa
"EP" on odometer '06 MCSa
Hi all,
I own a 2006 MCSa (original owner) with just under 52,000 miles. I only drive around 9,000 miles/year.
Today out running errands, I was at my second destination, and as I started the car, I glanced at the odometer and noticed EP under the mileage.
The car runs fine, shifts fine, and had I not glanced at the odometer, would never have known there was a problem. Hopefully there is NOT a problem. But the manual states that EP is a transmission malfunction and to take it in for service.
I drove home (only about 10 miles) and noticed nothing unusual with the transmission shifts. I even tried using the paddle shifters and even though I can't see the gear on the display anymore ("EP" is there instead), seemed to shift fine.
Got home, let the car sit for 2 hours, and went out to get some food. EP still displayed on the odo. Car shifted fine.
It's cold out (about 37 F), and both drives were relatively short so the tranny never really had a chance to get hot.
Transmission fluid has never been changed, per dealer (It has lifetime fluid they say).
I just took my car to the dealer one month ago for its once-a-year (yes, once a year, again, I only drive less than 9K miles a year) oil change, and they gave it a great bill of health. I even asked them to please check the spark plugs, as they are the original plugs and the car is going on 7 years old. They said they removed each one and they were fine, they did not recommend I replace them.
I also asked them about the battery. I've never had a car with its OEM battery last this long. They said they took a reading and even hooked it up to a charger and the voltage and the cold cranking amps were good as new, and it held a charge fine. So no need for a new battery.
All in all I walked away with just a $75 charge for the oil change.
And now, a month later, the EP light comes on...
I'm just hoping that not EVERY incidence of the EP light coming on MCSa means a catastrophic transmission failure is imminent. I'm hoping it's just a computer glitch. If this tranny dies with only 52,000 miles on it, I'll drive it off my own fiscal cliff!
Rock on,
-Joe
I own a 2006 MCSa (original owner) with just under 52,000 miles. I only drive around 9,000 miles/year.
Today out running errands, I was at my second destination, and as I started the car, I glanced at the odometer and noticed EP under the mileage.
The car runs fine, shifts fine, and had I not glanced at the odometer, would never have known there was a problem. Hopefully there is NOT a problem. But the manual states that EP is a transmission malfunction and to take it in for service.
I drove home (only about 10 miles) and noticed nothing unusual with the transmission shifts. I even tried using the paddle shifters and even though I can't see the gear on the display anymore ("EP" is there instead), seemed to shift fine.
Got home, let the car sit for 2 hours, and went out to get some food. EP still displayed on the odo. Car shifted fine.
It's cold out (about 37 F), and both drives were relatively short so the tranny never really had a chance to get hot.
Transmission fluid has never been changed, per dealer (It has lifetime fluid they say).
I just took my car to the dealer one month ago for its once-a-year (yes, once a year, again, I only drive less than 9K miles a year) oil change, and they gave it a great bill of health. I even asked them to please check the spark plugs, as they are the original plugs and the car is going on 7 years old. They said they removed each one and they were fine, they did not recommend I replace them.
I also asked them about the battery. I've never had a car with its OEM battery last this long. They said they took a reading and even hooked it up to a charger and the voltage and the cold cranking amps were good as new, and it held a charge fine. So no need for a new battery.
All in all I walked away with just a $75 charge for the oil change.
And now, a month later, the EP light comes on...
I'm just hoping that not EVERY incidence of the EP light coming on MCSa means a catastrophic transmission failure is imminent. I'm hoping it's just a computer glitch. If this tranny dies with only 52,000 miles on it, I'll drive it off my own fiscal cliff!
Rock on,
-Joe
The appearance of the EP indicator light has been a common glitch experienced by CVT owners. Some Coopers with this transmission have a faulty sensor which ends up tripping the EP code display. Either way get it to the dealership ASAP. I hope you still have a warranty.
Joe, great post. Hope it's nothing major.. Sorry no info on the lite.. Just read it is related to a teams glitch stands for end of program .. Good luck hope its nothing..read about it here.. Google it u can learn a lot.. http://www.insiderpages.com/b/371669...ni-minneapolis
This seems to only pertain to Mini Coopers with the CVT Transmission. My 2006 MCSa has the Aisin 6-speed slushbox... not the CVT.
Here is something that sounds more like the problem you are having.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ep-issues.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ep-issues.html
Trending Topics
Here is something that sounds more like the problem you are having.
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ep-issues.html
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ep-issues.html
seems to be that the tranny software needs to be re-initialized...recently got ep on my 05 mcsa...also had very weak battery/slow cranking...weak battery can trigger many fault codes
new battery now and reset the gauge cluster...ep went away next day...we shall see....
new battery now and reset the gauge cluster...ep went away next day...we shall see....
I started the car this morning (it was about 25 F outside) and it hesitated a bit to turn over, but not much, and the EP on the display was gone! Instead, it read "P" (because the car was in Park).
BUT, after I dropped my daughter off to school, I restarted the car and sure enough, "EP" appeared in the display again!
Very odd, because as I mentioned, the car shifts perfectly. I'm beginning to think it is caused by a weak battery... the battery is the one that came with the car, it will be 7 years old in July... and I'm surprised it's still cranking. As scanner wrote in his post, a weak battery may trigger fault codes. But why? Because it's not supplying the proper amount of voltage to all the computer modules in the car?
Rock on,
-Joe
BUT, after I dropped my daughter off to school, I restarted the car and sure enough, "EP" appeared in the display again!
Very odd, because as I mentioned, the car shifts perfectly. I'm beginning to think it is caused by a weak battery... the battery is the one that came with the car, it will be 7 years old in July... and I'm surprised it's still cranking. As scanner wrote in his post, a weak battery may trigger fault codes. But why? Because it's not supplying the proper amount of voltage to all the computer modules in the car?
Rock on,
-Joe
variations in milliamps and very low tolerances for these variations can cause computers to "misread" sensors...that's the theory ...german engineering is known for very precise and low tolerance variations in electrical components...so far mine is still ok since the new battery...good luck
Thanks for the info, Scanner, you've been a great help.
How much does the dealer charge for a new Mini Cooper S battery + install, do you know? The dealers around here charge varying prices for the same thing... for example, my dealer charges $74.95 for an oil change; another charges $99, and another $85, depending on where in NJ they are located.
I've heard Mini Cooper batteries are pricey, pricier than batteries for most other cars... is this true?
-Joe
How much does the dealer charge for a new Mini Cooper S battery + install, do you know? The dealers around here charge varying prices for the same thing... for example, my dealer charges $74.95 for an oil change; another charges $99, and another $85, depending on where in NJ they are located.
I've heard Mini Cooper batteries are pricey, pricier than batteries for most other cars... is this true?
-Joe
I'd go and buy my own battery, but I hear unless it's the OEM, it's not a simple drop-in replacement. Even the Optimas require you to widen the terminal connectors with some sort of spreader, so I've read doing Google searches. It's probably not too difficult, but I'd rather just have the dealer install it for peace of mind... even though I realize I'll pay a premium for it.
I have done some basic car maintenance by using the helpful videos people post on YouTube. But I have not found a video of someone doing a battery install on a Mini Cooper S, and I really need that step-by-step visual accompaniment before I decide to tackle a project on my own... even if it is what most would call simple/easy to do. I know all that's required is a basic wrench, but I probably don't even have the right size. Heh... I'm just not a mechnically inclined person and have very few tools to do it myself.
Rock on,
-Joe
There is nothing to it. Two bolts on the hold down and one on the positive cable and one on the negative cable. If you go to Advance Auto they will put it in for free while you watch.
Braminator, thanks for the offer. I really appreciate all the help and advice you and everyone else has given me.
So here's what I ended up doing:
This morning it was very cold again, and the battery was really struggling to start the car, but it did. But I knew it wouldn't last another night, and tomorrow morning I'd be stuck.
This morning at work, I went online and ordered an OEM replacement from the local Advance Auto Parts store. It said the list was like $225 but they were running a special 15% off online orders and some other incentives... all in all it cost $151.00 for the new battery.
I get to the store to pick the battery up and the guy said he would install it, then he says "Wait, oh, you have a Mini... we won't touch those... you need a special computer saver device that keeps power to the cars computer while the battery is being changed out; without that device you'll lose all your settings and the car might not start."
So I left with the battery, and called the local Mini dealer. The dealer said that Advance Auto was correct, but only for model years 2007 on up (Mine's a 2006). They encouraged me to change it myself using the supplied tool kit in the boot. I never changed a car battery before and was kinda nervous I'd mess something up. But I did it anyway... it took maybe 5 minutes... (It is COLD out so I worked fast!) to swap the old battery and install the new one. I actually couldn't believe it could be that simple.
Put the key in the ignition and it started right up... and the "EP" light is now gone.

So yea, thanks everyone for the advice and words of encouragement.
Rock on,
-Joe
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