R50/53 Cold start engine noise
Cold start engine noise
I have an 04 mcs, started it up today and heard a rather loud rattle coming from the oil filter area. I believe its the timing chain tensioner. Its the first time hearing it and stops after about a minute of warming up, should I worry about this right away? Should I get it replaced asap? Is it possible to do by yourself with limited knowledge?
When I push down the clutch nothing, when I let off I hear a click, but I assume that's normal because it clicks right where it engages. I started it today and no rattle, so I'm not sure what's up with it but yesterday's noise was not normal for sure. Probably going to order the part and just keep an eye on it because I know there's been problems with them on other mini's
Timing chain rattle issues USUALLY are on gen2 mini's, with a totally different engine desgin.
I would keep an eye/ear on it, maybe check the oil level! Thickness/viscosity may have played a role....what oil are you using...it is getting cool in the am.
I would keep an eye/ear on it, maybe check the oil level! Thickness/viscosity may have played a role....what oil are you using...it is getting cool in the am.
I had a similar issue. Although the gen2s were plagued with tensioner issues, Ive read enough gen 1 horror stories of neglecting this noise resulting in engine failure.
Worst case scenario indeed is to continue driving with chain slap that you may have heard which will sooner or later start breaking off pieces of the Plastic chain guide rails. These pieces drop down into the oil pan and with a few swishes and a couple swashes gets sucked up into the oil pump screen restricting flow and thereby starving the motor of oil leading to total engine failure.
That being said, trying to help someone diagnose a noise over the internet is like the deaf leading the blind..
In my scenario I heard a clatter/ rattle from the right rear of engine/ oil filter area on cold starts only. It ended up being the chain tensioner *in my case.
VERY easy, 20-30 minute diy. Jack up Rf and remove Rf wheel and fender liner. The tensioner bolt is positioned right above the oil cooler, just right of the filter almost along the side of the engine but facing rearward.
you'll need a 19mm socket with a universal or flex joint if I remember correctly. Remove old tensioner bolt and old tensioner slides out along with a little oil. Slide in new tensioner without popping it out to the extended lenth of the old tensioner, reinstall tensioner bolt and torque to I believe 45Nm. Turn over the engine by hand a couple times to pop out/extend the tensioner. Reinstall wheel. Remove jack and top off oil. Start engine to ensure no oil leaks or funny noises.
You can buy the tensioner from places like Way etc
Worst case scenario indeed is to continue driving with chain slap that you may have heard which will sooner or later start breaking off pieces of the Plastic chain guide rails. These pieces drop down into the oil pan and with a few swishes and a couple swashes gets sucked up into the oil pump screen restricting flow and thereby starving the motor of oil leading to total engine failure.
That being said, trying to help someone diagnose a noise over the internet is like the deaf leading the blind..
In my scenario I heard a clatter/ rattle from the right rear of engine/ oil filter area on cold starts only. It ended up being the chain tensioner *in my case.
VERY easy, 20-30 minute diy. Jack up Rf and remove Rf wheel and fender liner. The tensioner bolt is positioned right above the oil cooler, just right of the filter almost along the side of the engine but facing rearward.
you'll need a 19mm socket with a universal or flex joint if I remember correctly. Remove old tensioner bolt and old tensioner slides out along with a little oil. Slide in new tensioner without popping it out to the extended lenth of the old tensioner, reinstall tensioner bolt and torque to I believe 45Nm. Turn over the engine by hand a couple times to pop out/extend the tensioner. Reinstall wheel. Remove jack and top off oil. Start engine to ensure no oil leaks or funny noises.
You can buy the tensioner from places like Way etc
Thanks for the replies everyone, although the sound went away for now I'm not going to take any chances so I'll get the tensioner replaced asap.
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The tensioner uses both spring and oil pressure to load the moveable guide against the timing chain. I would also change the oil filter (I like The OEM filter best) and use a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 0-40 wt. The oil port in the tensioner is very small and I think clean oil with a low viscosity would help get the tensioner in operation against the moveable guide quickly. Lastly, the guides could be worn and also could have a piece of nylon(plastic) broken off of it. You would have to remove the timing chain cover to inspect all of both guides. Removing the camshaft cover only will allow only the upper portion of the timing chain guides to be visible. On the Mini Cooper engines I have taken apart more wear was present at the base of the two timing chain guides than at the top of the guides.
What weight of engine oil are you running? If it happens when weather gets colder I would try switching over to 5w30. Can't remember the thread but there is some discussion on 5w30 vs. 10w30.
Let us know!
Let us know!
Recomended oil is 5w-30 or ow-40 euro...syenthic only. 10w oils are a no-no on most any engine built in the past 10 years.....
Do you have the chrono pack with the real guges from mini (guages in the middle, speedo and rpm by the steering wheel) or aftermarket guages? They can be very useful.....
Do you have the chrono pack with the real guges from mini (guages in the middle, speedo and rpm by the steering wheel) or aftermarket guages? They can be very useful.....
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