R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 GreekDrifter's R53

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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 07:13 PM
  #201  
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GreekDrifter91
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Originally Posted by AlexQS
Will the fabric go under the places where the plastics overlap and bolt together? Maybe it could damp out rattles, vibrations and such.Can't wait to see how it turns out. Thanks a ton for all the posts you make,... They really help us new guys trying to become more fluent in MINI.
AlexQS
yes it will go under....Maybe.... your welcome i like posting a lot and taking alot of pics becasue i like to share what i have got and it helps others, i do it because i wish others would have done it too. did the the same with my jetta build thread but not for the rx7 no time for that.

so separating the door parts is a pain. so yuo got to pop the head of the rivet they made with the stem.
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Yea dont just yank the pad off you will break it they decide to use 3 torx screws here (of course) and they are tiny i think this is only for cars before 09/2002 i have a 08/2002 so i have this bolt stily instead of a clip. ughh

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and i tried my hand a sewing for the first time with a antique "singer" sewing machine its the only one we got. got the hang of it quick didnt bother triing to make straight even lines just wanted to make sure i could do it.
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Old Jun 3, 2013 | 08:24 PM
  #202  
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AlexQS
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I see... Ya I've been afraid to disassemble my door panels as of yet. Thinking that some weekend when I'm brave enough it would be an inexpensive DIY for me. I'll probably just put in some felt to get rid of the raddles.

The noises from the glove box, and down tubes of center console don't bother me a lot, But the door panels... They vibrate a lot if I try to turn up the stereo.

You've really got me thinking, remembering watching my mom sew clothes when I was little, having the paper patterns to follow, cutting the pieces, test fitting, etc..

You may have a better plan already, but incase you haven't thought of this yet... On the back side, fold the edge of the fabric over, and give it a double stitch in the machine to make it strong. When you wrap it around the plastic piece, sewing by hand, stitch it like the way a shoe laces, on the back side out of site, grabbing on the durable edge you made, so that you can pull it tight. -I dunno.. Just throwing ideas around
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 06:21 PM
  #203  
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well i got started... i just have to wrap it tight around, and put it back in, and the passenger door will be done.

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and the old girl
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #204  
-=gRaY rAvEn=-'s Avatar
-=gRaY rAvEn=-
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Those old Singer machines are awesome....always had a funny odor from the motor when it ran...lol.

Really Nice work btw !!
 
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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #205  
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Originally Posted by -=gRay rAvEn=-
Those old Singer machines are awesome....always had a funny odor from the motor when it ran...lol.

Really Nice work btw !!
Oh this doesn't have a motor its human powered

it doesn't look half bad it will look great once i get it tight around the handle.

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Old Jun 4, 2013 | 10:44 PM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by GreekDrifter91


it doesn't look half bad
Wow! I would never have thought of a mod like this. The red thread on the black suede makes it work for my eye.
 
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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #207  
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almost done with this.... door

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mock up...

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Old Jun 5, 2013 | 06:49 PM
  #208  
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ok now im done with this door....

this is how im holding that plastic trim on with. i was going to use glue but i want to be able to take this off again if i want to take the stuff off.

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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 05:06 PM
  #209  
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I'm glad you got the red stripe to line up with the center of where the bolts/screws go on the ends. Those little details make I big difference in my opinion.

Will you add finish plugs to those holes? You can find Checked or Brit.Flag ones for $30 something.... I read a while back about a guy that found some white plastic plugs for a few cents a piece at hardware store, spray painted them metallic silver. I can't find that thread anymore though.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2013 | 07:33 PM
  #210  
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whooo im done with the doors.... came out great. now to choose either to do the down tubes first or shift/brake boots. ...... pics at some point tomorrow.


Originally Posted by AlexQS
I'm glad you got the red stripe to line up with the center of where the bolts/screws go on the ends. Those little details make I big difference in my opinion.
Will you add finish plugs to those holes? You can find Checked or Brit.Flag ones for $30 something.... I read a while back about a guy that found some white plastic plugs for a few cents a piece at hardware store, spray painted them metallic silver. I can't find that thread anymore though.

yes im going to plug the wholes but probably with something cheap...
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:29 PM
  #211  
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...
 
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Old Jun 17, 2013 | 05:30 PM
  #212  
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So i got some new plugs today just stock (NGK : BKR6EQUP).... hope fully thi solves my really bad MPG issue, i was getting a good 35mpg highway when i first got the car now im getting 24.5mpg :( ..... maybe hey were the original plugs? they say "NGK R5 BMW" on them and there is no mention in the manual of plug changes. at the dealer.



So mechanic gurus what do you think of my plugs what do you see? some input would be nice! the plug threads were very oily i dont know if they put oil on the thread when they were installed or if oil/gas was bypassing the plugs...

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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:28 AM
  #213  
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Just caught up on this build, and man does it look good! I'm still relatively new to the site, so it's nice to see this kinda build straight away! Keep it up!
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #214  
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my plugs were exactly the same ones and in the same shape with 90k miles
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 11:04 AM
  #215  
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yea they look normal to me I was just concerned about the oily threads.... and I have 136k on my car
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 02:39 PM
  #216  
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Gabe, this is what my stock plugs looked like when I took them out at around 98k.
 
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 04:33 PM
  #217  
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yea ted it looks normal just like mine i though maybe that some people could read plugs better and see different things.

but starting up is better now before it would crank for a while before it would start and throttle response is better.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:43 AM
  #218  
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so I order Koni Yellows the other day for the low low price of 565 with free shipping. should be here soon. just need to order some springs when I get the money
 

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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #219  
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What springs are you going to go with?
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 05:45 PM
  #220  
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Swift springs
 
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Old Jul 10, 2013 | 06:17 PM
  #221  
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went for a tiny photo shoot, it was also raining so it was rushed.


 

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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 09:47 AM
  #222  
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i noticed you had the Cravenspeed STDs installed. did you mount a strut tower bar as well, or would that not fit with the STDs in place?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 02:27 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by Stprider18
i noticed you had the Cravenspeed STDs installed. did you mount a strut tower bar as well, or would that not fit with the STDs in place?
no i never had a strutbar, i dont think plan on getting one..... i also dont think it would fit with the STD's there either. and from what i read even the M7 strut bar dosent fit well either. you have to remove the hood insulation and it still is a little funky.

but these craven speeds look great and they do their job.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #224  
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Greek,
Don't know if your interested, but I've always wanted to try the strut bar from Donal-the-bonald with the cravenspeed tower defenders. Here's a link... Think they would both fit together?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200922095293...84.m1438.l2649
 
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Old Jul 14, 2013 | 05:10 PM
  #225  
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Looks like it could fit im not quite sure how it grabs the shock though. but this might be to tall as well, becasue it sits above the shock towers. the jcw or Gp bar are almost even i think with the towers.
 
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