R50/53 2006 MCS diesel sound and no start
2006 MCS diesel sound and no start
It started sounding like a diesel engine about 2 wks ago, I just thought my husband forgot what car he was in and only put 87% Octane in it so we ran it to a half a tank and filled it again, on the way home coming to a stop sign it just died, tried to restart but at first would only click then it would turn over but not start. Repair shop replaced 3 relays and are waiting for a camshaft position sensor, but they are at a loss at this point and thinking it is low compression. Ideas?
Yep, timing chain snapped! and the battery died at the same time, interesting coincidence.
Can anyone tell me where we (as mini owners) have access to the Service Bulletins (for OUR mini's) without paying for them, as we have already paid for the car.
Can anyone tell me where we (as mini owners) have access to the Service Bulletins (for OUR mini's) without paying for them, as we have already paid for the car.
Try here: http://www.automd.com/recall-tsb/sea...e=53&model=872
What kind of damage do you have? Are the valves okay?
What kind of damage do you have? Are the valves okay?
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I've tried that site, but they do not give you the entire SB only an excerpt. I got the one I needed off of another forum as the Austin dealer has yet to call me back. We are not sure, the shop showed low compression in 1 & 4 and none in 2 & 3, but we cannot see any damage. The chain broke at one link and was still on the gears when we opened her up. There is one small piece of the chain missing. Right now we are trying to find out how to do the repair on our own, but there is not much info out there on it.
You can not check compression with the timing chain off, so don't pay any attention to the numbers. Diesel sound is not a good sign though since it may be metal on metal that you heard which could mean bent things.
With the chain broken, the crankshaft and camshaft are no longer connected. Hence, no compression. According to this thread, the R53 is an interference motor but there are threads that say it is not. Interference means valves and cylinders come crashing into each other. The head must be removed to fix the bent valves and inspect the cylinders You need to find out.
If it's not an interference engine, you're lucky and there's no need for removing & fixing the head. Investigate why the chain snapped. The cam chain, tensioner and related components are all that needs to be replaced. Remove the oil pan to clean out metallic debris, run a couple of quick oil & filter changes to clear out smaller debris caught in the filter.
If it's not an interference engine, you're lucky and there's no need for removing & fixing the head. Investigate why the chain snapped. The cam chain, tensioner and related components are all that needs to be replaced. Remove the oil pan to clean out metallic debris, run a couple of quick oil & filter changes to clear out smaller debris caught in the filter.
We are assuming it snapped because of the tensioner. We are going to attempt to change the chain ourselves, as I dont trust the shop anymore. Just waiting for the Bentley manual to come in as no one in the forum has had any input on completing the job on their own. I think I found one person who said they did it and followed the manual. So that is our route.
The 2006 has a completely different set up than the newer cars, so if you're reading about the tensioner and chain issues on the 2007 and up cars, don't bother - it's different on your car.
How many miles on your car? Does it get regular oil changes or only when the service light comes on?
It's interesting to me that people can hear a terrible noise in their car and still drive it like that for 2 more weeks without at least having someone knowledgable listen too it.
People with the newer cars have driven theirs making bad noises for months at a time, then they're surprised when they get handed a bill for a new engine.
I also think you should find another repair shop if they're replacing relays and crank sensors without checking the basic things first, like compression - on a no-start car. And doubly so if you told them it was making a noise before it failed.
Here is a good source for parts diagrams and numbers and such, if you'd like to see how the engine is made....
www.realoem.com
and a pic of the timing chain from that site
Good luck with your repairs!
How many miles on your car? Does it get regular oil changes or only when the service light comes on?
It's interesting to me that people can hear a terrible noise in their car and still drive it like that for 2 more weeks without at least having someone knowledgable listen too it.
People with the newer cars have driven theirs making bad noises for months at a time, then they're surprised when they get handed a bill for a new engine.
I also think you should find another repair shop if they're replacing relays and crank sensors without checking the basic things first, like compression - on a no-start car. And doubly so if you told them it was making a noise before it failed.
Here is a good source for parts diagrams and numbers and such, if you'd like to see how the engine is made....
www.realoem.com
and a pic of the timing chain from that site
Good luck with your repairs!
Last edited by MINIdave; May 6, 2012 at 08:42 AM.
The inconsistant reports of interfearnce on the gen1 seems to ceter around the differance in the compression ratio's between the r50 and r53, with the r53 having a lower compression pistion....so the r53 is less likely to have bent valves...but since it ran for a while and made some odd noises, imo it makes sense to take the head off and inspect...
If you are going to soend the $$ on a new chain, then it make sense too look at the head/valves/pistons...so you only need to have it open once....and you end up with a fresher motor with a new headgasket.
Edit...since timing chain failures on gen1 cars are so rare, even on a modified car, opening it up will tell you if it is woth spending the $$ on this motor....if it has been abused, had the wrong oil in it, run low, etc, the motors insides and bearings will tell the tale....it might be better to just get a different motor, and move on. The timing chain is usually a lifetime part, and as such, when they fail, something has usually happened in the cars past to cause excessive wear....
If you are going to soend the $$ on a new chain, then it make sense too look at the head/valves/pistons...so you only need to have it open once....and you end up with a fresher motor with a new headgasket.
Edit...since timing chain failures on gen1 cars are so rare, even on a modified car, opening it up will tell you if it is woth spending the $$ on this motor....if it has been abused, had the wrong oil in it, run low, etc, the motors insides and bearings will tell the tale....it might be better to just get a different motor, and move on. The timing chain is usually a lifetime part, and as such, when they fail, something has usually happened in the cars past to cause excessive wear....
Last edited by ZippyNH; May 6, 2012 at 09:12 AM.
1st lets start with the assumption that my car has been mistreated, NOT everyone who buys a mini, does so with the intention of racing it around like they are living their forgotten high school years. 2nd, mini only issued the SB for the 07 and above and left us with 06 and older out in the cold as the issues spans many years and many engine models, just check ALL of the post for timing chain issues, not limited to 07! 3rd, as originally stated, I believed the wrong gas was put in the car, as with a normal car the "diesel" sound usually is due to this or just bad gas, so we were trying to run it out of gas, now had Mini issued a recall we would never had done so we would have known there was an issue. For those who have posted with helpful comments, I thank you, for those who have nothing constructive to say please stop wasting my time.
I am not saying YOU caused the issue......the lack of oil could have been caused by an manufacturing defect, a mis-aimed oil sprayer, etc. I am not trying to waste your time and say YOU did anything to mistreat the car. I am simply saying it is possible the chain was defective the day it left from the factory, but something else may have happened....
In tens of thousands of cars, ANY item can and will fail at a given rate...an engineer can give you the expected failure rate within a few tenth of a %
When an highly unexpected failure happens, it only makes sense to rule out items that could cause MORE damage. In all honestly, the warranty is over...so get over it...ask mini if they may goodwill a portion of the repair...it is unlikely unless you have done 100% of MX with your dealer, and they think you will buy a new car soon...
PS specific part numbers are discontinued on a regular basis..
Sometimes a part is just renumbered as a new stock, sometimes with a manufacturing change, resulting in lower cost, simple production, or improved durability.....sometimes it just means the part is available as a part from the after market, often STILL the OEM for a much lower cost, and MINI/BMW has elected to not stock it...
Having a major failure on a car sucks, but you need to understand the 2007+ cars a an ENTIRELY different beast....and THE ONLY THING the prince motor has in common with a gen1 motor (mechanically anyway from a practical standpoint) is it gets sold by BMW/MINI, in a MINI.....
PS when folks spend time trying to help you out, and you basically insult them, it is bad form, and shows a persons true character. Sometimes crap happens...you can either deal with it, or accapt responsibility, and deal with it. We are trying to help you deal with it, and make the best possible choice by helping you consider ALL YOUR OPTIONS and choices.
In tens of thousands of cars, ANY item can and will fail at a given rate...an engineer can give you the expected failure rate within a few tenth of a %
When an highly unexpected failure happens, it only makes sense to rule out items that could cause MORE damage. In all honestly, the warranty is over...so get over it...ask mini if they may goodwill a portion of the repair...it is unlikely unless you have done 100% of MX with your dealer, and they think you will buy a new car soon...
PS specific part numbers are discontinued on a regular basis..
Sometimes a part is just renumbered as a new stock, sometimes with a manufacturing change, resulting in lower cost, simple production, or improved durability.....sometimes it just means the part is available as a part from the after market, often STILL the OEM for a much lower cost, and MINI/BMW has elected to not stock it...
Having a major failure on a car sucks, but you need to understand the 2007+ cars a an ENTIRELY different beast....and THE ONLY THING the prince motor has in common with a gen1 motor (mechanically anyway from a practical standpoint) is it gets sold by BMW/MINI, in a MINI.....
PS when folks spend time trying to help you out, and you basically insult them, it is bad form, and shows a persons true character. Sometimes crap happens...you can either deal with it, or accapt responsibility, and deal with it. We are trying to help you deal with it, and make the best possible choice by helping you consider ALL YOUR OPTIONS and choices.
06CHAIN TENSIONER
1
11317510801$42.83
No.DescriptionSupplementQty From Up To Part NumberPriceNotes Photo01TIMING CHAIN
1
11311485400$65.27
02SPROCKET
1
11311485403$53.05
03CHAIN TENSIONER
1
07/200711317513005
ENDED
04GUIDE RAIL
1
11311485397$32.22
05SPROCKET
1
11211485402$36.43
06CHAIN TENSIONER
1
11317510801$42.83
07Screw Plug With Gasket Ring
1
07/200707137510732$8.84
08Hex bolt with washerM12X521
07137829910$3.82
09Hex bolt with washerM8X452
11317829911$1.07
10Pin
1
07101487234$1.89
11Bearing bolt
1
07101485596$1.89
1
11311485400$65.27
02SPROCKET
1
11311485403$53.05
03CHAIN TENSIONER
1
07/200711317513005
ENDED
04GUIDE RAIL
1
11311485397$32.22
05SPROCKET
1
11211485402$36.43
06CHAIN TENSIONER
1
11317510801$42.83
07Screw Plug With Gasket Ring
1
07/200707137510732$8.84
08Hex bolt with washerM12X521
07137829910$3.82
09Hex bolt with washerM8X452
11317829911$1.07
10Pin
1
07101487234$1.89
11Bearing bolt
1
07101485596$1.89
Zippy, I apologize, the "rant" was not directed at you, but the one prior who couldnt understand why the car was continued to be driven with the noise for 2 wks.
I did look up the correct part using my vin # and I realize there is another one listed, but that does not mean it is the same part, I just think that for what we pay for our Mini's they could be more honest and better at acknowledging that there are some serious defects with their product.
I did look up the correct part using my vin # and I realize there is another one listed, but that does not mean it is the same part, I just think that for what we pay for our Mini's they could be more honest and better at acknowledging that there are some serious defects with their product.
Bentley manual came in yesterday, now we are trying to find all the tools and parts. This seems to be a slow process as the tools are outrageously priced. I have found a few places to rent from and also a somewhat local that will loan me some too. :-} eventually I may get to drive her again.
I had a chain tensioner fail on my 06 close to a year ago. It is a lengthy repair. While you are in there fixing this may I suggest you replace the oil pump as well. Just as a precautionary "what if" step. A piece of the chain or plastic tensioner could have gotten into the pump and may not cause a problem until a few miles have been put on the car. Then you have to tear it all apart again. The oil pump I believe is under $200.
As for the motor itself I'm sure it is fine. The R53 motors are non interference motors. When the R53 motor is at TDC the pistons are all actually lined up in the middle of the block. As opposed to the usual method of the #1 cylinder piston being all the way up. However the R50 motors are interference motors and will bend parts if the chain slips.
Another thing to consider is if you have a qualified shop do the repair with Mini oem parts there is a two year unlimited mileage warranty on the parts. Just food for thought there. I had a shop do mine and it cost me 1500 or 1600. Most of that is labor as it's about a 10hr job.
As for the motor itself I'm sure it is fine. The R53 motors are non interference motors. When the R53 motor is at TDC the pistons are all actually lined up in the middle of the block. As opposed to the usual method of the #1 cylinder piston being all the way up. However the R50 motors are interference motors and will bend parts if the chain slips.
Another thing to consider is if you have a qualified shop do the repair with Mini oem parts there is a two year unlimited mileage warranty on the parts. Just food for thought there. I had a shop do mine and it cost me 1500 or 1600. Most of that is labor as it's about a 10hr job.
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