R50/53 Help me Prioritize Repairs
Help me Prioritize Repairs
Hi All,
A couple months ago I had my 2003 R53 in to get the serpentine belt replaced and while it was there I had the dealer check it out to see what else needed to be done. Here is what they came up with, with prices (includes labor):
Crankshaft Pulley.........$690.42
Struts........................$681.63
Control Arm Bushings....$680.88 (+ $148.00 alignment)
Power Steering Hose.....$299.22
PS Pump Fan...............$272.82
CV Boots.....................$415.63 / 399.63
So, I'm almost at 122K miles, and want to get some work done, but I can't currently afford all of it. Assuming the above list and a budget of $2000.00, what would you get done first and why? Thanks for your help!
A couple months ago I had my 2003 R53 in to get the serpentine belt replaced and while it was there I had the dealer check it out to see what else needed to be done. Here is what they came up with, with prices (includes labor):
Crankshaft Pulley.........$690.42
Struts........................$681.63
Control Arm Bushings....$680.88 (+ $148.00 alignment)
Power Steering Hose.....$299.22
PS Pump Fan...............$272.82
CV Boots.....................$415.63 / 399.63
So, I'm almost at 122K miles, and want to get some work done, but I can't currently afford all of it. Assuming the above list and a budget of $2000.00, what would you get done first and why? Thanks for your help!
Is the car paid for?
If so and you have $2k to lay down, why not get a small loan for the rest and have it all done and over.
I say this because all the parts that need repair/replaced are suspension and drive items that tie into
each other in some way or the other and if not directly, indirectly. If something breaks (like your ps hose) it could
cause you to wreck. I guess I'm thinking SAFTEY.
If so and you have $2k to lay down, why not get a small loan for the rest and have it all done and over.
I say this because all the parts that need repair/replaced are suspension and drive items that tie into
each other in some way or the other and if not directly, indirectly. If something breaks (like your ps hose) it could
cause you to wreck. I guess I'm thinking SAFTEY.
Last edited by drsimmons; Feb 22, 2012 at 01:10 PM.
if I were you I would skip the struts and control arm bushings. They shouldn't do very much damage if any while they remain worn out for a bit, but the other things can lead to much bigger failures if left unattended.
1. PS Fan, PS Hose, Crankshaft Pulley - These could cause create more problems to your car further increasing your repair bill.
2. CV Boots - Depends on how bad. If completely out of oil, it could lock up at some point but if at its early stage, it may keep going for a bit.
3. Struts - worry later
4. Control Arm Bushing - worry later
2. CV Boots - Depends on how bad. If completely out of oil, it could lock up at some point but if at its early stage, it may keep going for a bit.
3. Struts - worry later
4. Control Arm Bushing - worry later
PS Pump Fan -- if this goes out, your power steering can go out. You can still steer without it, but you might look at this at a top priority.
Struts -- how bad are they? Will affect your smooth riding and as long as you be "gentle" with it until replaced, leave them. This would be higher on my list.
Control Arm Bushings -- how bad are they really? If they are just worn, and not cracked, leaking, etc. then leave them. If they are cracked and leaking -- replace immediately. Third on my list unless leaking/cracked.
CV Boots -- you'll just leak fluids ... if it's not leaking bad (or at all and just at replacement time) leave them be. Tie for third.
Crankshaft Pulley -- What's wrong with it that it would require replacing? Not a big issue, but will also fail stuff like power steering and other power leaching devices. Depending on what the shop said is wrong, wouldn't be priority.
Power Steering Hose -- same here, if it's not really that bad (just nearing end of life) leave it for a while longer.
Struts -- how bad are they? Will affect your smooth riding and as long as you be "gentle" with it until replaced, leave them. This would be higher on my list.
Control Arm Bushings -- how bad are they really? If they are just worn, and not cracked, leaking, etc. then leave them. If they are cracked and leaking -- replace immediately. Third on my list unless leaking/cracked.
CV Boots -- you'll just leak fluids ... if it's not leaking bad (or at all and just at replacement time) leave them be. Tie for third.
Crankshaft Pulley -- What's wrong with it that it would require replacing? Not a big issue, but will also fail stuff like power steering and other power leaching devices. Depending on what the shop said is wrong, wouldn't be priority.
Power Steering Hose -- same here, if it's not really that bad (just nearing end of life) leave it for a while longer.
PS Pump Fan -- if this goes out, your power steering can go out. You can still steer without it, but you might look at this at a top priority.
Struts -- how bad are they? Will affect your smooth riding and as long as you be "gentle" with it until replaced, leave them. This would be higher on my list.
Control Arm Bushings -- how bad are they really? If they are just worn, and not cracked, leaking, etc. then leave them. If they are cracked and leaking -- replace immediately. Third on my list unless leaking/cracked.
CV Boots -- you'll just leak fluids ... if it's not leaking bad (or at all and just at replacement time) leave them be. Tie for third.
Crankshaft Pulley -- What's wrong with it that it would require replacing? Not a big issue, but will also fail stuff like power steering and other power leaching devices. Depending on what the shop said is wrong, wouldn't be priority.
Power Steering Hose -- same here, if it's not really that bad (just nearing end of life) leave it for a while longer.
Struts -- how bad are they? Will affect your smooth riding and as long as you be "gentle" with it until replaced, leave them. This would be higher on my list.
Control Arm Bushings -- how bad are they really? If they are just worn, and not cracked, leaking, etc. then leave them. If they are cracked and leaking -- replace immediately. Third on my list unless leaking/cracked.
CV Boots -- you'll just leak fluids ... if it's not leaking bad (or at all and just at replacement time) leave them be. Tie for third.
Crankshaft Pulley -- What's wrong with it that it would require replacing? Not a big issue, but will also fail stuff like power steering and other power leaching devices. Depending on what the shop said is wrong, wouldn't be priority.
Power Steering Hose -- same here, if it's not really that bad (just nearing end of life) leave it for a while longer.
Bad crankshaft pulley. A lot of these parts can be put off but you have to really figure out how bad of a condition they're in.
You can order a PS fan for about $120 an it only takes 10-20 minutes to install.
I drove mine onto some 2X8 boards and had just enought room to remove two nuts and a plug.
Also, see if the 5 amp fuse is blown.
Mine was not working and I pulled the fan, cleaned it, replaced the fuse and all is well.
Where in Texas are you?
A local MINI club may be able to refer an INDY that will charge a bit less than the stealership.
http://new.minimania.com/web/Display...e/ArticleV.cfm
I drove mine onto some 2X8 boards and had just enought room to remove two nuts and a plug.
Also, see if the 5 amp fuse is blown.
Mine was not working and I pulled the fan, cleaned it, replaced the fuse and all is well.
Where in Texas are you?
A local MINI club may be able to refer an INDY that will charge a bit less than the stealership.
http://new.minimania.com/web/Display...e/ArticleV.cfm
Trending Topics
First thing to do, take it to an independent Mini specialist - give him the repair report that the Mini dealer gave you, and ask him (or her) for an estimate to do the work - it will be considerably less than the dealer quoted you
Thanks for the responses. Mobility issues prevent me from doing much more than an oil change, and the only alternate "MINI" shop around consistenlty gives me quotes higher than the dealer.
Turns out that they replaced the crankshaft pulley when they did the serpentine belt, so that's not an issue. I'm going with the PS hose and fan and should be able to do everything but the cv boots - or should I do the CV boots and wait a few months for the struts and bushings? I want to have a small reserve to address an oil leak which I think is the oil pan gasket, but have not confirmed. Thoughts? Thanks again.
Turns out that they replaced the crankshaft pulley when they did the serpentine belt, so that's not an issue. I'm going with the PS hose and fan and should be able to do everything but the cv boots - or should I do the CV boots and wait a few months for the struts and bushings? I want to have a small reserve to address an oil leak which I think is the oil pan gasket, but have not confirmed. Thoughts? Thanks again.
Last edited by mpdwag; Feb 22, 2012 at 06:22 PM.
$150 for an alignment!!??
I got a 4 wheel alignment for $100. You will only need a front end alignment after a control arm bushing change obviously which should only about $50, not $150.
I got a 4 wheel alignment for $100. You will only need a front end alignment after a control arm bushing change obviously which should only about $50, not $150.
Go to a non BMW shop for an alignment. I had mine done at Mazda and it only cost me $65. That was with employee discount, but the regular alignment price is only $75 here. It's the same machine and they do the same thing, a BMW/MINI place will just charge you more
Are you power steering lines leaking? They usually just need new clamps installed. That fixed my issue for like 4 bucks. Better to try that first since it's usually the top thats leaking.
Is your oil leak a slight drip or residue on the bottom of the motor?
Sometimes it's the crank sensor gasket leaking on the forn of the motor that makes it seem like the oil pan gasket is the problem.
$4 part accessed after removing the front bumper.
From the design, some have had the oil pan gasket start to seep again after replaced, just the nature of a British car.
When you have the lower control arm bushings are being replaced it would be a good idea to replace the pan gasket since it will be easy access after the suspension is dropped.
I would look for another "Indy" shop if they are charging more than the dealer.
Sometimes it's the crank sensor gasket leaking on the forn of the motor that makes it seem like the oil pan gasket is the problem.
$4 part accessed after removing the front bumper.
From the design, some have had the oil pan gasket start to seep again after replaced, just the nature of a British car.
When you have the lower control arm bushings are being replaced it would be a good idea to replace the pan gasket since it will be easy access after the suspension is dropped.
I would look for another "Indy" shop if they are charging more than the dealer.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
wildwestrider
R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006)
11
Jan 29, 2016 05:06 PM
ECSTuning
Vendor Announcements
0
Oct 1, 2015 12:13 PM
Samhillrocks
R56 :: Hatch Talk (2007+)
2
Sep 29, 2015 12:55 PM






