R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Common Front End Bushings that wear out?

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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:23 AM
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IQRaceworks's Avatar
IQRaceworks
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Common Front End Bushings that wear out?

I’m planning on putting some new tires on my mini this winter, changing out the serpentine belt, and doing some other routine maintenance on it. It’s got 90,000 miles on it…..and since I’m going to get it re-aligned after the new tires anyway, I figure it would be a good time to replace some of the front end bushings, I’m sure they need it. In order to keep the downtown to a minimum, I would like to have all for the bushings ready to go before I have to start tearing the car apart. Should I just order new front control arm bushings, or are there other “common” bushings that usually need to be replaced? What are the most commonly worn out bushings that need to be replaced on the front of the minis? The car handles great, and the front seems really tight…..but since I’m going to be doing some work on the car anyway, why not put some poly bushings in there.

While I’m at it, is there any other maintenance related items I should think about changing out since the care has 90,000 miles on it?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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nodoze
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From: Norwood, MA
The front sway bar bushings
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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From: West Seattle
+1 for the front swaybar bushings. I recommend the Powerflex pre-pressed control arm bushings from Way Motor Works (don't forget to send your cores back in!) and at the same time order the swaybar bushings, which will also be the Powerflex ones. When you order them, guess about which size swaybar you have and include your VIN in the order notes (and tell them why) so they can look up which size of swaybar you actually have.

After you go through the trouble of dropping your sub frame (I found out you don't have to drain the radiator if you don't want to) you won't want to put anything back in that can be replaced. The bolts holding the control arm bushings will take a lot of force to loosen up- think air hammer or pipe on your breaker bar- so you won't want to do it again.

I'm guessing the silicone bushings will last almost the life of the car- anybody else want to weigh in on that?

Val
 

Last edited by valvashon; Dec 2, 2011 at 08:33 AM. Reason: added note about VIN
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 11:07 AM
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IQRaceworks
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What will I need to drop the subframe for?
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 11:33 AM
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From: Irvine, CA
Originally Posted by IQRaceworks
What will I need to drop the subframe for?
To remove the control arm bolts. They're too long and will not have enough clearance to pull out. Some just drop half of the subframe downtown until they can pull the bolt out but it will be a pain to torque it back to spec given the little amount of room you'll have to work with.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 03:58 PM
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IQRaceworks
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Has anyone ever tried this method? Air hammering the bushings out without pulling the bushing mounts off??



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B7kQn...eature=related
 
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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If you like the way the car handles currently, consider stock lower control arm bushings. I did, and I don't regret it.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:11 AM
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From: NoVA/DC
Originally Posted by Blackbomber
If you like the way the car handles currently, consider stock lower control arm bushings. I did, and I don't regret it.
OEM LCA Bushings are kinda a known issue, and if you are in there, I would say go with an upgraded poly bushing. Lasts a lot long, with less flex/deflection, and though a few dollars extra, is money well spent. IMO.
 
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