R50/R53 :: Hatch Talk (2002-2006) Cooper (R50) and Cooper S (R53) hatchback discussion.

R50/53 Transmission Questions....

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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 01:39 PM
  #1  
GreenR53's Avatar
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Transmission Questions....

So here is the deal I have an 06 MCSa 65k the wife has a 05 MCSa 103k on the clock the 06 works just fine however the 05 shifts hard and I think it could be on the way out both are the GA6F21WA Aisin 6 speed transmissions I really never have trusted automatics. I was thinking about looking into possibly swapping for a manual transmission into the 06 and putting my 06 transmission in the 05. Yes I know the cost could be very expensive to swap a manual into my 06.

So the questions are..

Other than the transmission itself, pedal cluster, slave cylinder, clutch master cylinder, clutch etc what else would be required?

Also what is the durabilty of the GA6F21WA?

Thanks -Paul
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 04:46 PM
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Unfortunately the ECU will be looking for an automatic, not sure how to get around that.

As far as history, the Aisin autos are a very well built unit. Maybe you should just get the balky one checked out first.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 06:21 PM
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It's a huge bag of worms. Hope you like to fish.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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It makes more sense to by a new car then do an auto to manual swap.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2011 | 10:17 PM
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try the fluid change https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...-change-4.html
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 06:05 AM
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If I recall right from pulley installs even the engine mounts/postion is slightly different....the auto motor sits about 1/2 to 3/4 further to one side...
short of buying a totaled, rear ended mini....and transfering the computer and drivetrain....just reusing you motor...then modiying the interior....swapping the trim parts..adding the pedal....and the computer....wiring harness perhaps...
As grayraven said...if you want a stick...trade cars unless you have some spare $$ and lots of time....once upon a time, the swap was easy....but with modern computers and highly engineered modern cars, it is as if you have to splice two cars togeather...not just swap a few parts.
A good tranny shop (try a good local, non chain type of place that does the work inhouse) should be able to fix the tranny if it goes....it may just need some tlc.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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A firm (hard) shifting automatic is normally considered healthy. No slipping / mal-adusted bands, etc. Obviously you have two similar cars that drive noticeably different, so something is different. I'm not sure how it works with the MINI on board diagnostics, but someone who can get into that can measure line pressure (which affects shifting firmness). Also, note at what RPM the shifts are occurring in both cars. If the 05 is shifting later, it will be perceived as more rough, when in actuality, that is just the nature of a higher RPM shift. Now these two causes (and there are others) are just that, causes. You would still need to diagnose why this occurs. But my point is that a hard shifting auto may not be indicative of an impending failure.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackbomber
A firm (hard) shifting automatic is normally considered healthy. No slipping / mal-adusted bands, etc. Obviously you have two similar cars that drive noticeably different, so something is different. I'm not sure how it works with the MINI on board diagnostics, but someone who can get into that can measure line pressure (which affects shifting firmness). Also, note at what RPM the shifts are occurring in both cars. If the 05 is shifting later, it will be perceived as more rough, when in actuality, that is just the nature of a higher RPM shift. Now these two causes (and there are others) are just that, causes. You would still need to diagnose why this occurs. But my point is that a hard shifting auto may not be indicative of an impending failure.

Along these lines could it also be becasue the car is adaptive and has learned to shift the way the driver drives the car?
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:46 AM
  #9  
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Actually, in these cars, a hard shifting auto means the fluid is well beyond its useful life or you have solenoids that are starting to stick (what I had). I recommend changing the fluid a few times to get as much of the old stuff out as you can. A number of people have substituted synthetic fluid with good results, I used Toyota T-IV fluid as I wanted to get as much of the old stuff out as I could and I could buy a case of the Toyota fluid for the same price as 4-5 quarts of synthetic.

The choice is obviously yours, but I would start with simply changing out the fluid.
 
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Old Jul 15, 2011 | 07:48 AM
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Great points by Yetti and Darth.

For the ease and cost, replacing fluid should be a no-brainer.
 
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