R50/53 R53 MCS 110K - What Mods suggested?
#1
#5
After that kind of mileage, the strut top mounts might be torn or a little tired.
You might even look into an undercarriage brace to return some the new-car feel, could also help with rattles.
For most rattles, dynamat or equivalent simulant is your friend. If your dash rattles bad, a strip of 1" square household insulation foam stuffed between the dash and the windshield does wonders. You can also take apart the dash panels and put some dynamat on those and use Durapore tape (some kind of teflon-esque 3M stuff) on the seams to eliminate squeaks.
I did all this, and put some dynamat simulant onto the back side of all interior panels and onto select areas of the unibody.
Aside from my rattling rear bumper, to which no solution is known to modern science, my car is silent inside, even over nasty bumps and rough roads.
You might even look into an undercarriage brace to return some the new-car feel, could also help with rattles.
For most rattles, dynamat or equivalent simulant is your friend. If your dash rattles bad, a strip of 1" square household insulation foam stuffed between the dash and the windshield does wonders. You can also take apart the dash panels and put some dynamat on those and use Durapore tape (some kind of teflon-esque 3M stuff) on the seams to eliminate squeaks.
I did all this, and put some dynamat simulant onto the back side of all interior panels and onto select areas of the unibody.
Aside from my rattling rear bumper, to which no solution is known to modern science, my car is silent inside, even over nasty bumps and rough roads.
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If you haven't already heard about the "magic switch" on the R53, here's the entire kit for a reasonable price: http://bit.ly/bs5HNA This kit plus a high-volume CAI and new cat-back pipes will help your MCS breath harder. These mods will put you somewhere around the 200HP mark with little effort. Afterwards, a RMW tune will get you the best results from these mods.
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#9
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Yes a Pulley should be the first mod for you. We have kit that is everything you need.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pulley-package.html
Then do a rear swaybar
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...-bar-19mm.html
those will be your biggest bang for the buck mods. As for Mods that may be maint items at 110k, look at the control arm bushings. They wear out about every 40k, the Powerflex bushings are the best.
Also Plug wires may be a good maint item too.
http://www.waymotorworks.com/wmw-pulley-package.html
Then do a rear swaybar
http://www.waymotorworks.com/h-sport...-bar-19mm.html
those will be your biggest bang for the buck mods. As for Mods that may be maint items at 110k, look at the control arm bushings. They wear out about every 40k, the Powerflex bushings are the best.
Also Plug wires may be a good maint item too.
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I agree if the wires are NOT needed they are a waste of money, but we are talking about a car with over 100K miles. I'd say it's time to change the plug wires for optimum performance, assuming they haven't already been changed. The coil pack is mostly for looks if you like red .
On the other hand, the colder range (Brisk Racing DR14S) plugs in the Alta kit burn a lot hotter than stock and are highly recommended by many experienced tuners. Stock MINI plugs have a "weak" spark because they are designed for longevity, not max HP. If longevity is your goal, then stick with the stock plugs but one range colder if you are adding the 15% pulley to help prevent knocking.
High performing silver electrode plugs (i.e. Brisk) are especially recommended in higher mileage MINIs like "early" and I drive. Rather than rehashing all of the details here, please check out this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ark-plugs.html
On the other hand, the colder range (Brisk Racing DR14S) plugs in the Alta kit burn a lot hotter than stock and are highly recommended by many experienced tuners. Stock MINI plugs have a "weak" spark because they are designed for longevity, not max HP. If longevity is your goal, then stick with the stock plugs but one range colder if you are adding the 15% pulley to help prevent knocking.
High performing silver electrode plugs (i.e. Brisk) are especially recommended in higher mileage MINIs like "early" and I drive. Rather than rehashing all of the details here, please check out this thread:
https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ark-plugs.html
#19
Depends on the motor.... Most MINI's don't need the colder plugs and knocking doesn't generally happen with a reduced pulley (especially a 15). Stock plugs work very well and if you are getting knocking, you really need a tune rather than plugs or there is something else going on. Although I do agree that if the plugs and wires haven't been changed in the life of the MINI it might be time for some new ones.
I also don't recommend Brisk as I have heard of several breaking via my mech friend and have seen one busted up in person. Denso have a tendency to back out as well, so I recommend NGK.
Of course, this is all just my opinion.
I also don't recommend Brisk as I have heard of several breaking via my mech friend and have seen one busted up in person. Denso have a tendency to back out as well, so I recommend NGK.
Of course, this is all just my opinion.
#22
On the subject of rattles, I'm getting a consistent rattle from the front of the sun roof - I suspect the air foils that fold down when the roof is closed and noticed some worn pads. I've added some more silicone "buttons" to try and tame this annoying rattle but wondered if anyone else had this as an issue?
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Getting back on topic...
Daflake: I certainly dread the thought of plugs breaking or backing out and wish such disasters on no one. I would suggest such things point to another problem. Here's a quote for a MINI motorsport engineer from the UK on the subject:
BTW: The reason it's a good idea to use colder spark plugs on modified R53's has to do with the increased temperatures in the upper head caused by the extra boost. This is true for 15% pulleys and even more so for greater reductions. If you hear pinging you have a severe problem. I am not talking about a problem you can typical hear. A colder plug addresses pre-ignition that is insidious in nature as it is hard to recognize and detect. This is the reason the R53 JCW had a colder plug. By the way, if anyone is seriously concerned about putting racing plugs in their cars, you can always use JCW plugs and still gain the benefit of the colder range. Here's one place you can get them: http://www.waymotorworks.com/john-co...gs-by-ngk.html
Daflake: I certainly dread the thought of plugs breaking or backing out and wish such disasters on no one. I would suggest such things point to another problem. Here's a quote for a MINI motorsport engineer from the UK on the subject:
No spark plug will or should come loose, if correctly torqued with NO anti-seize compound applied to the threads, this is a BIG NO and should always be the case, as well as ALWAYS install spark plugs into a cold or very cool engine, remember the basics of heat expansion and contraction!
One of the other most common causes of spark plug loosening is, heat harmonic vibrations, heat harmonic vibrations are caused when a cylinder has a lean situation, this increases the frequency of the explosion impulse, and generates irregular heat vibrations, and in turn this can and does loosen the spark plug.
One of the other most common causes of spark plug loosening is, heat harmonic vibrations, heat harmonic vibrations are caused when a cylinder has a lean situation, this increases the frequency of the explosion impulse, and generates irregular heat vibrations, and in turn this can and does loosen the spark plug.
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