I'm very seriously considering a return back to Ford. I'm beginning to feel as if I have little choice.

I simply do not understand all of the various "mysteries" surrounding my recently purchased daily-driver... a 2003 MINI Cooper (R50, W10, 2DR Hardtop??).

In addition to all of these abbreviations/"labels", I also seem to need to know if I have an "M", or an "M3" as well as whether or not it's a MINI "ONE" or "1st Gen." (depending on the websites I visit for parts, etc.)?

The whole motor oil thing has me at a tipping-point. It occurs to me as nothing less than ridiculous. I'm well out-of-warranty now, but do I need ... should I use (in the U.S.) "SM"? "GF-4"? "ACEA-A3"? "LL-01"? "L1"? "L5"??

I suppose the same thing that makes the internet great is what makes for all this sort of confusion as well. Sometimes too much information is as bad (or worse) than not enough.

Thanks for reading my rant...

 

Abbreviation codes here: https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...eat-sheet.html

As for the oil, if it had synthetic oil in it, keep using that. If it doesn't, change it to synthetic. Check your owners manual, it's in one of those.

 

R50 - chassis code for 1st generation justacooper. (non Cooper S)
W10 - Engine code for the justacooper engine.
2DR - Two door car...

Don't give up on MINI just because of some new codes. Ford codes are just as confusing for me as MINI codes seem to you.

Your car is a 1st Generation, because it was the first body style, roughly built between 2002 and 2006. After that is 2nd Gen, 2007-present.

MINI "ONE" is a model of the car offered outside the USA. It is a de-tuned justacooper with simpler options designed to be a cheaper car.

As far as M and M3, these are BMW monikers for their tuning division and their most famous sport sedan, the M3. Any BMW car with an M in front has been tuned by the "M Division."

Any oil made today pretty much meets those requirements. Not sure what they are or what those numbers mean, but I'm sticking with Amsoil brand.

 

I always found personally, that learning all the new codes and abbreviations is part of the fun of getting a new car and joining a forum

btw that list WhildThang attached is pretty cool

 

Well, you've only scratched the infinitesimally thin surface layer of all of the mysteries and hidden surprises that come for free with your MINI.

Try this link if you dare. Recently advertised as requiring three days to read thoroughly from start to finish. A treasure trove of MINI mysteries!

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...your-mini.html

Enjoy.

 

Thanks to all, and I know I've over-blown this thing (due in LARGE part to too many other, current, stressors in my little world), but it's the whole "correct" or "APPROVED" motor oil thing that's really got me so close to the edge here...

I've owned this DYNAMITE little vehicle for about two months now. Been telling everyone who cares to listen (and apparently many do as I am approached/questioned OFTEN regarding it - as I'm sure you all are as well) that it is THE Most fun I've ever had on four wheels.

Now. Motor oil...

I have no clue what it had in it when I bought it (though I did notice that it did have a good quality oil filter in it), but as I became aware of all the (seeming?) stipulations regarding "correct" and "approved", well, I changed it out at about one month and 3000 miles of service (yeah, I drove quite a bit that first month).

I'm using a Full-Synthetic, 5W40, "SM" oil, which I believed to be "heavy duty". I opted (at least temporarily) for Shell Rotella T, which I do understand is PRIMARILY designed for diesel engines.

It was also "my understanding" (before last night...I suppose) that diesel engines "exert much more extreme internal pressures" than gas-powered engines - so I sorta figured; 'what's not to like about Rotella T'? "Should be" GREAT for a gas engine! But then I read last night that gas engines "run hotter" and 'wear more'. I know, I know...getting into issues of "chemical makeup", and the differing wear characteristics (demands & requirements) between gas engines and diesels.

Hence, my confusion.

Because oil (at least in the case of full-synthetic's) is expensive (in my opinion), and because I burned a full quart in 3000 miles, of "whatever" was in my MINI prior to my purchasing it, I chose a "40" for the top number hoping to keep consumption down (though I understand that a quart in 3000 miles is really not indicative of any "problem") - I would simply prefer to buy/use less oil...for several reasons.

I am looking for a suitable (ok, correct/proper/"approved") motor oil, and I'm searching for one that is as economical as possible ("around $20", maybe $25/$28 per 5 qts, at the most).

I am hoping to be able to go 6000-8000 miles between changes (bi-annual - spring & fall), with no more than one quart added between changes, and I would prefer something "Energy Conserving" - which I know the Rotella T is not).

Last, but not least, it has long been "my understanding" that the larger the "gap" between API grade numbers (say, a 0W40 vs. 10W30 ... a "40 point" difference as opposed to a "20 point difference") the quicker the oil will (tends to) "breakdown" (wear-out).

I would like to think that I could use (be "approved") with just about any 5W30 SM/CF FULL Synthetic motor oil. Am I wrong...please?

Thanks again to all, and I welcome all comments/suggestions/advice/opinions.

g...

 

I'm completely confused and my brain is starting to hurt.

 

You can use any SM/CF full synthetic you want. Some common ones:

Amsoil 0W30 ~ $10.50 per quart
Royal Purple 5W30 ~ $8-10 per quart
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W30 ~ $9 per quart
Castrol EDGE 5W30 ~ $10.31 per quart
German Castrol from the MINI dealer ~ $ ??

 

I pay around 6 bucks a quart for the German Castrol at the dealer, which is on my way to work so I dont have to go outta my way to get it. I've switched to that from Mobil 1 which actually cost more.

 

Yup. Likely the WV "flu".

 

I was really confused by all the codes when I first started. Just read that thread with all the codes on it and it will all sink in. As for the oil I have no clue I bought new and don't really have to worry about it. I have always just gone by the owners manual in the past with used cars.

 

+1
On all of these above, although I use Red Line 5W30 $9-13 per quart.

 

I don't normally "quote myself", but here is what I found to back-up my assertion here (above) at BITOG - http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/index....d=53&Itemid=61

Conclusion: ...

...The higher the spread between the bottom number and the top number the more VI improvers are relied on for maintaining the viscosity. Better to keep the numbers closer...

 

if you want to go 6 to 8k between oil changes then you should be using full synthetic, plus it's what mini recommends.

additionally, although mini recommends specific oils in their manual you might want to look into what oil works best for whatever climate you live in... because it makes a difference.

 

OK, use what you want, your assertion is correct, never mind the owner's manual, never mind enthusiasts opinion, nevermind BMW/MINIs recommendation and use diesel oil its fine for the MINI, Bob the oil guy convinced me too. I think you may be confused and frustrated because you are over complicating which oil to use and why to use it.