R50/53 hot mini --- toooooo hot.
hot mini --- toooooo hot.
Its hot in Hawaii. but every time i start to race around the car boils over. It didn't use to do this.ARG.I have a 19% pullie ,Big intercooler , cooler 180*thermostat,cold air intake ,ecu tune. put out 196 hp at the wheels. I use one bottle of water wetter and distiled water only. I 've been told that there are gears between the super charger to the water pump that go bad and it costs a fortune to fix that , it looks clean in the hoses and over flow tank . I ve been using just water for a month cause it's been boiling out so much.It has a new overflow cap.It seems to have a whine that changes with the engine speed that is not the super charger.How do I test for what might be wrong? stuck thermostat? bad water pump ? cloged radiator?
hisssssssss any help .Thanks in advance, Peter.
hisssssssss any help .Thanks in advance, Peter.
It could be the 19% pulley that you have installed. The 17% & 19% reduction pulleys tend to put the supercharger out of its heat range because of it spinning too fast. My water temperature is usually around 210+ when I sit in traffic and playing, sometimes even just driving. If I were you, I would add some more coolant. That is what I did, and my car is running much cooler.
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What's changed since the cooling system was working properly?
Is the radiator cap holding pressure? Is the thermostat correct for the car aside from the lower rated temp? Thermostats usually fail open, but the way to check is to pull it out and put it in a pot of water on the stove (suspended above bottom of pot is best). You'll need a suitable thermostat to monitor the water temp. The stat should start to open at it's rated temperature.
The closer you can put the car back to stock the fewer red herrings you'll have to chase down in fixing this problem.
Radiator's can be pressure tested (simple), and flow tested (more difficult). Are you losing coolant?
Running straight water is a bad idea for several reasons: The boiling pt is only 210F vs. 265F with a 50-50 antifreeze /water mixture; no lubricants for water pump and whatever other moving parts in the system; and no corrosion inhibitors.
Is the radiator cap holding pressure? Is the thermostat correct for the car aside from the lower rated temp? Thermostats usually fail open, but the way to check is to pull it out and put it in a pot of water on the stove (suspended above bottom of pot is best). You'll need a suitable thermostat to monitor the water temp. The stat should start to open at it's rated temperature.
The closer you can put the car back to stock the fewer red herrings you'll have to chase down in fixing this problem.
Radiator's can be pressure tested (simple), and flow tested (more difficult). Are you losing coolant?
Running straight water is a bad idea for several reasons: The boiling pt is only 210F vs. 265F with a 50-50 antifreeze /water mixture; no lubricants for water pump and whatever other moving parts in the system; and no corrosion inhibitors.
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Aug 10, 2015 01:59 PM




arg.... anyone but them
