Sooooo, I'm gearing up to do a complete brake overhaul on the MINI. Not looking for opinions on parts, as I have already gathered them all.
For reference sake, I have:
Brembo Rotors
Hawk HPS pads
Stainless Steel Brake Hoses
ATE super Blue fluid
G2 Paint Caliper Paint Kit (red)

My question is, in what order would you do what?

My original plan was to get everything apart, clean and paint the calipers while off of the car (giving the calipers the requisite time to dry), reinstall all and then bleed.

But then I thought, it might suck having to work with freshly painted calipers, chance of nicking them, getting brake fluid on them etc.

So perhaps then, I do all the replacements get it all put back together, bleed and then paint the calipers while on the car.

Being that I'm doing this alone and I know my MINI will be down for at least a day, what in your opinion would be the best, most efficient order of operations???

I like to thoroughly think out my jobs before I do them, lame?

 

I would go with your first option, paint then install. This gives a good way to clean the calipers and paint them off the car. This way you will not be hunched under the wheel wells doing most of the paint work. You will need to be there enough with the install and bleed. (assuming all work done with jack stands)
You should be able to reassemble without damaging the paint and the bleed should not get fluid on the new paint either.

 

Thanks, I appreciate your input!

I liked that method best, simply cause it probably would allow for a better paint job and I do like the idea of less hunching!



Just wanted to make sure I wasn't overlooking the obvious or had a flawed plan of attack...

 

Remove clean paint, reassemble is how I would tackle it. I would connect the stainless brake lines to the caliper while on the bench. Brake fluid can ruin paint, so be careful when reassembling.

 

Painting first would do the best job. You could always touch-up after everything is back together if necessary.

 

Hmmmm, good call on attaching the lines to the calipers, while off the car!

Thanks!

 

I agree with everyone on disassemble, clean, paint, and reassemble. Cleaning is the most important step and it is a pain to get all the brake dust off the calipers. I found that the ATE Super Blue fluid did not seem to strip the G2 paint (if washed off within a reasonable time) but the ATE fluid strips the car paint very quickly so imediately wash off of any car paint, especially in the engine compartment. I spill some fluid on the strut tower and wiped with a rag a minute late and the paint came right off. The ATE Super Blue fluid strips paint much quicker than normal brake fluid.

Also, you might want to decide if you are going to drain your clutch reservoir since it uses the brake fluid. I drained my whole system which required me to later bleed the clutch and brake systems. The advantage is you get out all of the stock brake fluid when switching to Super Blue.

 

I believe the clutch uses the same reservoir as the brakes, it draws from the hose on the right side.

I would not drain the old from the lines. Remove some of the fluid in the reservior by either pumping it thru a bleeder or sucking it out with something.
Fill reservoir with blue fluid.
Begin at passenger rear and pump fluid thru until you see the blue fluid at the caliper (while keeping an eye on the fluid level)

Repeat with other rear then pass front lastly driver's front and clutch.

Next time switch to a non dyed fluid. I personally use Ford Heavy Duty fluid, it's cheap and works just as well as the $$ stuff.

 

Okay so wait...

The clutch uses the same fluid, correct?
The clutch AND brakes use the same reservoir? (that's just nuts, can't believe I never noticed that, assuming its true)

I should have any easy go at thoroughly replacing fluid, being that I have a Power Bleeder. But I DO want to do the most thorough job possible, so if I could replace/bleed the clutch at the same time, all the better.

Where is the bleed valve for the clutch?

The only reason I went with the "super Blue," was because I figured the blue would make it easier to tell when fresh fluid was through the system. Though, it probably will be easy to tell, being that Im willing to bet its still on the original brake fluid. tisk tisk...

 

Word of wisdom. Unless it is necessary don't do anything with the clutch. They can be a real PITA to bleed and you may not get it back to feeling the way it does now. Plus it takes a specail tool to bleed the clutch, and before you ask it's like $200+.

As for fluid. I don't like the Blue, we tend to find a year or so after having the blue. The pedal will feel spongy, and even when you bleed it out again it still feels a little soft, it will work but gives a bad feel. I think it does something to the seals in the master cyl. So I always use the Motul, it's amber in color so the dealer never knows it's not stock, and has a 100 deg higher boiling point than the blue.

 

Okay, Sounds reasonable, especially because I AM quite fond of the clutch feel I currently have.


But, whats this about the "blue"? Hmmmm, maybe I should switch to Motul...

Thanks for this new tid bit.

Anyone else feel this way about the "blue stuff?"

and again thanks for EVERYONES input here, really really appreciate it!

 

I have a Power Bleeder but I do not think it does a very good job, especially if you get a bubble in a difficult location. I still use the two person approach but it does take finding a second person to push the brake pedal while you bleed each brake line.

A disadvantage of letting all of the fluid drain out is the chance of getting a bubble in the ABS when refilling and bleeding. I did not have a problem but I have seen posts from people having a difficult time getting a bubble out of the ABS. It is safer to just flush new fluid through the brake system.

I have read posts of people having problems bleeding the clutch but I did not have a problem bleeding the clutch at home without the special tool. You do need to make something to push down the cluch pedal. I wedged a bar clamp between the pedal and seat and it worked fine (some people just cut wood/stick to the proper length). I am **** and wanted all the fluid changed even if it might not make a big difference. It just didn't seem right to leave in old low temp fluid to mix with the new high temp fluid.

I used ATE Super Blue in my previous MCS and it worked fine but I did not have it in the car for over a year so maybe I did not see the ill affects.

I have read that some people alternate between Blue and Yellow fluids to easily see that they got all the previous fluid out of the system.

 

Well I do admit this is gonna be my first time bleeding with a "power bleeder." But also assuming I disconnect the brake lines (to be replaced with ss lines) I won't be "completely" draining the system.
Being that the brake lines attach to a fitting that is aimed "up-wards" so it'll keep the fluid up to where I disconnect the brake hoses... right?

Then I'll just be pushing new fluid through and old out... can't be too much risk of bubbles in the ABS.... so I hope!

Again assuming, I'm not completely wrong...


I've always done the old fill and manually pump method, I just don't have anyone to help me. Well aside from my girlfriend.. and I just don't feel like looking for a new girlfriend after a day of me shouting commands at her and her getting annoyed and bored....

 

Last time I bled the brakes, I got my wife a glass of wine to drink while pushing the pedal.

If you disconnect at the hard lines, you will be good if you cap the hard lines when you disconnect the rubber lines. A rubber plug works well. Otherwise, the fluid will drain out to the level of the lowest open brake line which will probably be below the reservoir and APS.