R50/53 How do I remove terminals from ECU?
How do I remove terminals from ECU?
I'm installing an M7 CAI and need to remove the plastic firewall that runs behind the intake and the ECU. When I pull the rubber seal off the top of the firewall there is a wire bundle that runs from the ECU through a slot in the top of the firewall. I therefore need to move this wire bundle out of the way.
I'm able to remove the top cover off the ECU which reaveals 2 terminals connected to the ECU; each terminal has a plastic cover. It's the smaller terminal closest to the firewall that I need to remove. I can see there's a 'T' shaped light grey plastic 'pull' at the back of the block underneath the wire bundle. I'm able to pull the 'T' out about 1/4 inch, which I assumed would then allow me to pull up on the terminal to remove it from the ECU, but when I pull I'm able to wiggle the black cover but cannot seem to remove the terminal.
I obviously don't want to use brute force and break anything so can someone give me any help and advice?
Thanks.
I'm able to remove the top cover off the ECU which reaveals 2 terminals connected to the ECU; each terminal has a plastic cover. It's the smaller terminal closest to the firewall that I need to remove. I can see there's a 'T' shaped light grey plastic 'pull' at the back of the block underneath the wire bundle. I'm able to pull the 'T' out about 1/4 inch, which I assumed would then allow me to pull up on the terminal to remove it from the ECU, but when I pull I'm able to wiggle the black cover but cannot seem to remove the terminal.
I obviously don't want to use brute force and break anything so can someone give me any help and advice?
Thanks.
You have to pull the "T" a little bit further. When you have it pulled all the way out, it will actually "pop" the ECU connection off.
Likewise, when you go to replace the ECU connection, make sure the "T" is pulled all the way out first. As you press the ECU connection down, the "T" will pull in a little bit by itself. After the ECU connection is fully seated, press the "T" the rest of the way in to lock the connection in place.
Likewise, when you go to replace the ECU connection, make sure the "T" is pulled all the way out first. As you press the ECU connection down, the "T" will pull in a little bit by itself. After the ECU connection is fully seated, press the "T" the rest of the way in to lock the connection in place.
You're welcome, and be prepared to use a little bit of force to get the "T" fully extended. There have been a few times where I've had to slip a screwdriver into the "T" to get enough leverage for it to extend fully.
I too had to resort to screwdrivers because there wasn't enough space for my fingers to get enough leverage.
Having resolved that problem it now seems I need to remove the bottom of the airbox before I can remove the firewall. That means removing the housing around the ECU because they are all one unit. The obvious connections are the bolt that hold the airbox leg down in front of the fusebox and the battery terminal cables which hook into slots on the left side of the airbox. However, it feels as if the bottom is somehow attached and yet there are no connections visible. Any suggestions?
Also, when the bottom of the airbox is removed does the ECU housing lift off and leave the ECU in place or does the ECU have to be removed first?
Having resolved that problem it now seems I need to remove the bottom of the airbox before I can remove the firewall. That means removing the housing around the ECU because they are all one unit. The obvious connections are the bolt that hold the airbox leg down in front of the fusebox and the battery terminal cables which hook into slots on the left side of the airbox. However, it feels as if the bottom is somehow attached and yet there are no connections visible. Any suggestions?
Also, when the bottom of the airbox is removed does the ECU housing lift off and leave the ECU in place or does the ECU have to be removed first?
You have to take out the ECU and set it aside - its enclosure comes out with the airbox bottom, if I recall correctly.
As for getting the airbox bottom out, unfasten the bolt you've already found on the airbox leg, and get the battery terminal cables out of the way. Then, pull the airbox bottom firmly toward the front of the car. There are some rubber knobbies that engage the underside of the bottom/rear of the airbox base. Pulling the airbox toward the front of the car will disengage it from the knobbies.
(This will make more sense once you've actually done it, I promise).
As for getting the airbox bottom out, unfasten the bolt you've already found on the airbox leg, and get the battery terminal cables out of the way. Then, pull the airbox bottom firmly toward the front of the car. There are some rubber knobbies that engage the underside of the bottom/rear of the airbox base. Pulling the airbox toward the front of the car will disengage it from the knobbies.
(This will make more sense once you've actually done it, I promise).
That makes perfect sense.
To remove the ECU, do I just lift it out once I've removed the 2 terminals from the top?
To remove the ECU, do I just lift it out once I've removed the 2 terminals from the top?
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Update: Scott - All your suggestions worked perfectly.
FYI: I'm installing an M7 intake and am somewhat disappointed with the fact it doesn't create a complete barrier to prevent hot air transfer from the engine compartment into the intake enclosure under the drivers side cowl vent. Behind the fuse box there's a large gaping hole and there are other gaps and spaces. The stock plastic shield that had to be romoved to make way for the M7 created a complete barrier.
To resolve the problem I'm in the procerss of modifying the stock barrier so I can install it behind the M7 to plug up the holes.
I don't know if other after market CAI's have the same problem but to me this is a big issue. I've read a lot of comments on the forums about which material is best for a CAI to minimize heat transfer and even heard comments that lighter colors are better because they reflect the heat, but all these issues are somewhat mute if there are gaping holes as described above.
FYI: I'm installing an M7 intake and am somewhat disappointed with the fact it doesn't create a complete barrier to prevent hot air transfer from the engine compartment into the intake enclosure under the drivers side cowl vent. Behind the fuse box there's a large gaping hole and there are other gaps and spaces. The stock plastic shield that had to be romoved to make way for the M7 created a complete barrier.
To resolve the problem I'm in the procerss of modifying the stock barrier so I can install it behind the M7 to plug up the holes.
I don't know if other after market CAI's have the same problem but to me this is a big issue. I've read a lot of comments on the forums about which material is best for a CAI to minimize heat transfer and even heard comments that lighter colors are better because they reflect the heat, but all these issues are somewhat mute if there are gaping holes as described above.
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