I need a new clutch to get rid of the creaky sound. It makes it almost unbearable to drive and is getting worse. I plan on getting a new clutch within 2 weeks and would appreciate any advice on what new clutch I should get.

 

Clutch Masters

 

+1

 

Clutchmasters.

 

I have a clutchmasters and I say don't get it. I don't like mine at all honestly. I have the FX200 and really if it didn't cost 1k in labor to replace, and or if I had a separate vehicle that I could drive while I personally replaced the clutch I'd do it tomorrow. The pedal is pretty vague and inconsistent...I did just get the clutch slave cyl. replaced to see if that was the issue. I placebo'd that it was fixed for about a week...but nope...still have the problem :( I'll probably try the master cyl. as well and hope that it isn't the actual clutch, but I think it is. No I'm not leaking a drop of fluid, yes it acts different with temperature. Sometimes it grabs 1cm off the floor, sometimes it grabs right in the middle. Sometimes the clutch wont fully disengage when I push it in and I get stuck in gear so I have to pump the clutch a bit to get out of gear. It really is a pain, and I NEVER had an issue with the stocker...I just figured I'd replace it when I got my Quaife in.

Also, unlike most people I do like my clutch pedal to be a LITTLE heavy. The clutch master clutch is feather light, and while that would be nice for most people I'd rather it be a little heavier and have a better feel to the clutch as to where it grabs and how much travel the clutch is grabbing.

I know everyone says to stay away from Spec, and I have no experience with them...but I have seen some of them all torn up and would not recommend one.

If I were to do it over again, I would go ACT. I had an ACT clutch in my S2000 and it was the BEST clutch I have EVER driven. I was even complimented on the clutch feel by nearly everybody that drove the car. It was a little heavier then the stock S2k clutch but the feel was just perfect. Some people say their pressure plates are to heavy and put stress on the crankshaft...well I actually did end up pulling the engine out of that car and the main bearings all looked brand new after 70k miles and 30k on the ACT clutch. Thus my personal experience tells me the ACT HD pressure plate is fine.

Take it for what its worth...but my personal experiences will shy me away from the greater leverage/lighter pedal clutches in the future (I also had a competetion clutch in the S2k...and an ACT in an Eclipse I had before that)

BTW I only have 5k miles on my cluthmasters.

 

When I (finally) need to do mine I'm going OEM. 90k hard miles and still going strong.

 

The clutchmaster's FX200 dual mass flywheel is 8-9 pounds lighter than the LuK stock flywheel. If the pedal is lighter to the touch, doesn't mean there is anything wrong with it. It is just your personal preference to have a heavier feeling pedal, more like a race clutch.

In such case, stick to stock or get something else.

Me, I prefer a lighter feeling clutch pedal for everyday use.

 

Good luck to ya

 

The flywheel has nothing to do with the lighter pedal...stock is 27lbs CM is 12...so its actually 15lbs lighter. But that has NOTHING to do with the pedal feel. Lighter flywheel = faster unloaded reving (better for rev matching)

I don't think you actually read my post...I said that the heavier clutch was my personal preference: "Also, unlike most people I do like my clutch pedal to be a LITTLE heavy"

And that a lot of people probably would like a light pedal: "The clutch master clutch is feather light, and while that would be nice for most people"

Here is why I don't like it...again: "The pedal is pretty vague and inconsistent; it acts different with temperature; Sometimes it grabs 1cm off the floor, sometimes it grabs right in the middle. Sometimes the clutch wont fully disengage when I push it in and I get stuck in gear so I have to pump the clutch a bit to get out of gear"

I DO NOT want a race clutch. A puck clutch design is very ON/OFF and that is how they are designed to be. They are also very grippy and can handle a lot of torque, but with the specific friction material used they also wear faster. I never said I wanted this. The ACT clutch I had in my S2000, and my Eclipse prior were excellent clutches. Pedal effort was ~ 20-30% more then stock but you could feel exactly where in the travel the pedal would grab and you could feel as you slipped how the clutch was grabbing and the amount of the travel that it continued to be slipped until it was fully engaged. And it was always the same...it never grabbed in a different location. Thats why I liked my ACT, NOT because I prefer a "race" clutch...because I don't.


The reason the pedal feel is light with the clutchmasters is because (again if you read my post) the pressure plate uses longer lever arms for greater leverage, thus you have more torque with your pedal effort so even though the pressure plate is producing more pressure against the friction material you can't tell. This is the second clutch I've had of this design...and like I said, I don't care for them. And yes the CM is about 50% lighter then stock! Great for the person stuck in traffic all day. Until they get stuck in second gear and can't get out and are idling towards the car in front of them until they either A. brake and stall the car then pump the clutch to get out of gear and restart or B. pump the clutch and get out of gear then brake before hitting the car in front of you...

Please respond with the real reasons why I don't like it instead of making up your own.

 

I think id be fine with the oem clutch but ive heard they have defects and such. If that were true wouldnt they have fixed the problem by now. I do need it a little lighter one they one now is stiff as hell.

 

and I want one that will last awhile

 

So Clutchmasters is your best bet.

 

Their is no way the clutch is supposed to be acting like that. Are you sure you dont have air in your clutch lines?

 

//MZero I feel for your clutch issues. I would bleed bleed bleed your clutch system(I even check for crap in the lines; perhaps it is your master cylinder/air issues). Did you follow 500+ mile break-in procedure? Those break in miles were ohhhh so boring for me but all surfaces seem to be mated up.

My FX200 pedal pressure is heavier than stock and precise to boot. All in all I'm happy with CM's offering.

Jeremy

 

Okay. Having just gone through replacing the clutch myself, for the second time in my car here's my input:
1-I think //MZero has a slave or bleed problem. If your clutch is not engaging properly, you will have your symptoms. Somewhere insufficient pressure is being placed on the system and the pressure plate is not being lifted completely. This is exactly why my FX600 was not working. I bled and bled and bled that sucker and it still wasn't right. I tried pressure bleeding, I tried the OEM tool, I tried pedal bleeding. Still wasn't right. Ultimately replaced the slave, as you did, and carefully bled it and it is fixed. One trick is the slave is very finicky with deflection of the piston from straight. Even a new one, if you bled it, and go to re-install it on the bell housing and deflect it ever so slightly, will leak air into the system. PM me if you want the pointers on fixing this sucker.

Otherwise I would say it again, Clutchmasters. Stay away from Spec. Know SO MANY that have just imploded on cars as varied as imports to 500whp VW's to MINIs, etc, etc, etc...

 

Just so I don't clutter up this thread, I'll take my issues to PM with AZMCS.

But yes, system has been bleed twice and has not had air, replaced clutch slave...and well the old one looked fine but had the new one thrown on there anyway (I didn't do the slave install...I had Custom Mini in Fresno do it for me). But I planned to try the master next in hopes its not the clutch...I've just never had issues like these before and it is quite frustrating. Hopefully AZMCS has the fix for me. As for the break-in...I didn't follow the 500 mile break in, I followed the 1200 mile break-in I wanted to be EXTRA sure it was fine and never got the car above 3000 rpm during that time. The I did a spirited drive one weekend, followed by the track the next and at that point everything was dandy.

 

My car is a daily driver...is it necessary for me to get the Fx200 (as recommended by most) or is a Fx100 adequate?

My mechanic already quoted me a job of 750. So I guess I just have to research the right clutch and flywheel. I'm thinking Fx100 and Fidanza flywheel. Thoughts?

 

If you are going clutchmasters, why not mate their clutch with the their flywheel? It only makes sense as they were made to work together.

Regarding FX100 vs FX200, well the biggest, most important difference between the two is that the 100's friction disc is an organic material, the 200's is a carbon kevlar.

The kevlar can handle more heat, handle more torque, and will laster longer. The downside to kevlar is that if you overheat it and glaze it, there is virtually no recovery. This is why the break-in period is so important on the FX200. Organic clutches can recover from an overheat sometimes...depending on how bad you cooked it, and how many times it was cooked previously.

If you wore through an OEM clutch in 30k miles, then you are a clutch killer and probably do things like hold your car on a hill for long periods of time with the clutch. In that case, you'd need the 100 as the 200 would be destroyed in a matter of weeks. But if you were able to get 70k+ out of your OEM clutch then I'd say get the 200. The benefits are worth it, and the clutch is not easy to overheat...just something to be concious of when driving it hard. First sign of smell...start driving slow and keep moving to cool it down.

BTW - AZMCS, PM me back

 

MZero, thanks for the great response. Is there a difference between the two flywheels?

Also what else is a difference between the fx200 and fx100 besides wear and tear? Does the fx200 perform better? Is it smoother than the fx100? I'm not a "clutch killer" based on your description. But I am on a budget.

 

I have heard more people badmouth SPEC on this forum than in my life!!

I had SPEC on 3 of my past 4 cars over the past 6 years without issue. Stg 3/AF on 03 Stang GT, Stg. 2+ on 01 VW Jetta 1.8t, same on my 04 MCS. I would put it in my Marauder if it was a manual. I know of people that can say good and bad about all brands. Hell, people badmouth stock!! Personal experience? 3 of 4 cars without an issue. That is fact, not fiction. I don't work for SPEC, but I have never been disappointed, so I figure why not share my personal experience?

 

I'm don't remember the differences between the two flywheels as it was almost 6 months ago when I was doing this research...but at that time I believe both flywheels were similarly priced and weighed pretty close to the same, so why not go with the one made by the people who made your clutch as they are made to work together. Not that the Fidanza wouldn't work...just that CM with CM is like eggs and bacon.

Yes the Fx200 does perform better as far as performance driving...it can handle more of everything then the 100. Like I mentioned, more torque (allowing you to mod more heavily in the future if you ever choose to), more heat - it won't die on the track as quickly, and longer life when used properly. As for smoothness, I haven't had a 100 in my car but based on reputable shops opinions they feel basically the same. My FX200 is lighter then my stock pedal was...when engagement isn't all over the place (mentioned in earlier posts and possible not the clutch itself) the engagement is crisp, not on/off but a definite point in the pedal where it starts to grab...its easier to drive in traffic then a stock clutch. The only reason not to get the 200 over the 100 IMO is if you are accustomed to smelling clutch, otherwise the 200 will serve you better.

BTW, my car is a daily driver as well.

 

I think based on your information. I'm probably going to go with a Fx100. I don't have heavy mods so I don't need the extra torque. I don't track or autocross. That kind of crosses out the reasons for a Fx200.

 

My brother has a 2003 MINI COOP S, He said his clutch is going bad-
Would we have to go to a Mini Dealership to replace the clutch or can we do it ourselves. I wonder How much DAN at grassroots garage charges.. hmmmm

How much typically does a clutch job cost in a mini coop s

 

The dealer chargers 2600 I think, but you cn get it done for much less at an independent shop.

 

Just picked up our 03' from Dan this past weekend and the clutch/fw replacement from him ran around $1400. That price included the SPEC Stg2 & Fidanza flywheel costs. Give him a call to double check, but I know he can do it for a lot less than the dealer and does absolutely great work!