My car is currently at Helix getting a Clutchmasters FX300 and flywheel done and they have a flat labor rate of 850 i believe for a clutch job.. not too sure tho as I'm also getting a Quaife installed at the same time so my labor time will be a little longer.. I heard the dealer charge is outrageous so I didnt even consider it

 

Let us know about your impressions with the new FX300.

 

I am looking at a new clutch in the near term as well. But, it sounds like there is a lot to be removed to replace it. Does this sound like the correct line up starting from the engine?
1-flywheel
2-clutch
3-tranny
4-diff
In essence, the flywheel will be easily accessible once the clutch is pulled and I can do both at the same time, right?

One question, with ClutchMasters aluminum flywheel, does anyone notice more difficulty starting from a stop due to lower mass? I have the early '03 tranny with what feels like a really tall 1st gear.

dan

 

Here is a link for the clutch install

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...ml#post1451152

and here is a vid I made of stock flywheel vs. lightweigh (12lb) flywheel...mine does happen to be the CM. And no, I have no difficulty from a stop.

 

Maybe it is just me but it doesnt seem like it revs that much faster than stock. Is that the case? It doesnt seem like it would be such but that is what it looks like.

 

It wasn't as dramatic as I was expecting/hoping. But yes it is quite noticeable. Part of the reason is the way I made the video, if you just watch the reving of both skipping the accel demo you can see the effect more easily.

Part of the issue is the elec. throttle body too. If it would react faster then 1 second it would be much better.

 

Throw a Sprint Booster on there and see if the reaction time is any faster since that's what they claim to do.

 

So I was asking for advice on my other local forum about the clutchmasters Fx200 and clutchmasters flywheel kit. and I got this response:
"I have a Spec Stage 3 clutch and UUC lightweight flywheel in my Cooper. I would not recommend something like that in a daily driver.

The clutch does not like being slipped. It can be done, but it makes nasty sounds when you do it. It much prefers to just be dumped (and at around 3k rpm). Not fun at all in traffic.

I did get some performance gains on the track, though. I now get wheelspin in places I didn't used to.

I also found that my heel / toe shifting improved with this setup. Since the clutch grabs more than slips, when you let out the clutch during heel / toe, it just grabs - this forces you to get the throttle blip right instead of letting you mess it up.

But, umm... for a street car? Keep it stock."

Is it really that much of a concern for the Fx2oo + flywheel?

 

Looking at their websites, the Spec Stage 3 clutch would be most similar to the Clutchmaster FX-400, not the 200 or even the 300.
Given you (MrCooperS) are considering the CM FX-200, I'm not sure how valid or helpful the advice you got in the post above is.

 

BTW MZero, how's your clutch now? I remember you mentioning something about the life span or something wrong with your Fx2oo clutch...

 

The Spec Stage 3 is a puck design clutch. That is if you look at the clutch friction disc itself you'll notice that it is segmented and not a full circle. This makes the clutch grab harder and is much like what the guy mentioned about it prefers to be dumped rather than slipped.

The FX200 is not like that at all, the friction disc is a full surface, or that full surface. So when slipping it the entire surface is slipping/grabbing. This is how your stock clutch is also. Honestly, no it is not a concern with the FX200 or 100, or any other non puck clutch for that matter. Although certain friction materials can/do change the engagement feel, they don't change it anywhere near a puck clutch.

As for my clutch, yes, its still holding up fine. I think my issue is just a little air in the lines somewhere. AZMCS still hasn't gotten back to me on his secrets. But basically my issue is related to the slipping feel and pedal travel. More of an annoyance then anything...although about a month ago it did sound like the throw out bearing slipped once on a 1-2 shift during some hard driving. The clutch itself feels fine. But if you wanted I'd sell it at ~1/2 price :D and get myself an ACT...I'd just need to buy another vehicle to get me around while I pulled my tranny.

As for the sprint booster...I don't want to spend that much money on that mod...to much other more important stuff.

 

Thanks for that [above]. The photos are very helpful in visualizing what is going on after the engine. Looks like I'll be shopping for a pro to do any installs!

dan

 

Thanks for the offer! But a clutch/flywheel is one of those parts I feel hesitant about buying used. Either way, my parts are already ordered. I just want reassurance it's the right step for me. Double reassurance for doing my clutch instead of dropping the money on wheel+tires. <my clutch has been making a rusty/creaky feeling when depressed for almost a year now, figure it'll go anytime now *65K+*> Probably wasn't treated very well from the previous owner.

 

I agree, clutches are an iffy thing to buy used...I never have and probably never will, as its so important to break them in correctly and how they are treated has a huge impact on how they will last. I just want an ACT because I so miss that direct feel.

Anyway, good luck with your new clutch...let us know how you like it.

 

I run the FX300 and the CM Aluminum Flywheel... I had the same idea and installed a Quaife at the same time... Love it, was the best decision Havent had any problems...

 

Despite NAM members advice and through financial reasons went with the LuK oem clutch. I didnt have any extra $$ for the clutchmasters so I had to. Just got it back today and it was $750 with labor. Feels great so far. I will give an update eventually on how it does over time. My mechanic seemed to love LuK clutches so im willing to give it a chance. Well see what happens, hopefully i dont need a new clutch again for a loong time.

 

Did you get the LuK OEM clutch with a new flywheel or the old flywheel? I think it's been said that the dual mass flywheel can't be resurfaced/reused. How much did the parts run you?

 

My mechanic resurfaced the flywheel no problem. Mini admits they had a problem with the original flywheel but i could not afford a new flywheel. The paperwork doesnt say pricing for parts just says what was replaced, the clutch kit and resurfacing of the flywheel. I was just just glad it was only $750 not $1300 which is what everyone else was quoting around town. I assume the kit was $280 or less which is what MINI charges for one.

 

Wow that isn't a bad price at all. My mechanic quoted me 750 for a 10 hour job. It's a banging deal and great price from a great and reliable mechanic. Glad it worked out for you.

 

Anyone out there with CM FX200 & ALUM flywheel getting any increased trans clatter in neutral over oem setup? Mine clatters a little with oem at 65K miles.Clutch is starting to go south, hard getting in gear at time, hard to push pedal etc! Will be upgrading soon!
Thanks for any input, Jeff

 

Yes there's chatter Jeffreyevens. If you want a refined sound(no noise at all) like stock the FX200 won't be for you.

Jeremy

 

Yep...chatter chatter chatter, its a normal occurrence when you get rid of the dual mass. I had no chatter at all when I was stock, but then I also only had 30k miles on the stock parts.

 

Just got through putting in a FX200 kit and Quaife in a buddy's '03 MCS last night. Sitting in the car at idle, we didn't notice any chatter. But it was noticeable when you stepped out of the car. It disappeared though once the rpms went above 1500.

 

Hey MZero. What's the proper procedure for breaking in the new clutch? The instruction says no "compression braking;" what's compression breaking? It also says to break in for only 500 miles...I've seen people say 1000, what's adequate?

 

Compression braking? Hmmm...sounds like engine braking, ie. braking that is the result of engine compression.

As for break-in procedure, I was told to simply drive really easy on it for the first 500 miles. No launching, no long slipping, no wide open throttle, just drive it like a grandma. I, in turn decided that I would drive it like a grandma for 1000 miles just to make sure that it was 100% broken in before I started abusing it. I wasn't told anything about not using engine braking, but then, over that entire 1000 miles my car stayed below 3000 rpm. But I DID have a track day on my clutch at ~ 1200 miles on it. Because I knew the track day was coming up, I wanted to make sure I didn't mess it up ahead of time.

They say 500 miles is adequate...so it should be. If you are extra cautious like I am, just baby it for the first 500, drive like normal for the second 500...and then after that it should be ready for the track.