So has anybody out there had to deal with changing their plugs then the subsequent ejaculation of them out of their seat? Just trying to see whats the best method to avoid this BESIDES the standard 21 ft lbs of torque needed to seat them right.
Time for the change and don't wanna go into the shop for big time repairs!

 

My advice:

- Engine should be absolutely cold before removing plugs. Alloy is soft when hot.
- Compare old plugs with new plugs to ensure you've got the correct parts
- Apply anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs before installing
- Without using the ratchet, use your fingers with the socket extension to screw in the new plug. If there's resistance, you might be cross-threading so unscrew and try again
- After all plugs are finger-tight, use the torque wrench to finally tighten to spec

Some people also advise to re-check the torque on the plugs after driving a few days. Just be sure engine is cold if you do this.

 

Don't change plugs unless the head is stone cold. Not warm. Cold. Anti-seize on the threads and 21 ft/lbs of torque with a quality torque wrench.

I check mine every 5000 miles when I change the oil. In 30,000 miles none of them have been loose at all.

Rich

 

Great advise already given. cold, torque, antiseize. Also make sure you use good plugs like these: http://www.waymotorworks.com/product...cat=274&page=1
Some other aftermarket plugs are more prone to come out with the threads.
Don't stress it won't be too hard.

 

Another good point is based on the fact the MINI uses crush washer seats for its spark plugs. This means with fresh plugs you have to literally crush the gasket washer that seals the plug between the combustion chamber and the outside world. Most new plugs will NOT fully crush that washer if you simply torque to 21 lb/ft after snugging the plug up. You need to feel the crush washer collapse before paying attention to the torque wrench. This is very similar to tightening a cylinder head bolt by stretch, not just torque.

I hope that helps provide good insight. When you understand how the system works you're much more likely to built it and maintain it correctly. Torque values by themselves mean virtually nothing.

Cheers,
Ryan

 

Wow! Thanks for all the feedback from everybody on here! It's much appreciated thats for sure.....I'll let everybody know what how the project goes!

 

This makes no sense. If it takes more than 21 to compress the crush washer, then how can you torque it to 21 after it compresses?

No need to overthink this. Just torque it to 21. It will compress the crush washer fine.

- Mark

 

It makes no sense if you've never experienced it. The torque needed to crush the washer may exceed the final torque spec. The moral of the story is; if you can't feel the washer crush on a fresh plug, then you should remove it and inspect the washer to ensure it's fully crushed. If the washer isn't crushed, you haven't finished installing the spark plug. This is far more important than a simple blind torque specification on what is essentially a torque-to-yield system.