CVT Transmission Repair/Rebuilding
#1
CVT Transmission Repair/Rebuilding
As a lot of you know the CVT style automatic transmission in the first generation minis is problematic. I own two minis that have both had transmission issues. I also own an auto repair shop and am now intimately familiar with the rebuilding and repair of these CVT transmissions. The first car that I had transmission issues with was previously at a dealership and the former owner was told that it needed a transmission replacement for about $7000. I pulled the transmission pan off, found a broken wire to the solenoid, repaired the wire and fixed the car for about $150.00. I highly recommend that you take your car for an inspection before you replace the transmission. We have all the equipment etc to perform diagnostics and if neccessary a complete transmission overhaul.
Igor Stolper
Advance Auto Repair
2435 16th St
San Francisco, Ca 94103
(415) 552-1831
Igor Stolper
Advance Auto Repair
2435 16th St
San Francisco, Ca 94103
(415) 552-1831
Last edited by Igor Stolper; 03-19-2008 at 12:15 PM.
#4
#6
I called Igor about my "EP" light coming on very intermittently (once every few months), and he was helpful in suggesting what it might be. To really pinpoint it though, a diagnostic tool would have been needed to get a code from the transmission.
Let us know how things turn out!
#7
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#8
http://www.automaticchoice.com/Catalogue/zfvt1-27t.pdf
That one's pretty good. Minimania also has some diagrams and parts listings for the CVT.
What's your reason for lowering the valve body? Repairing something else in the transmission?
#10
#11
#12
Also, if you haven't changed the fluid recently, that would definitely be something to do. It's one of the few things I'd actually recommend going to the dealer for since they have the right fluid and the computers to reset the adaptations. It should cost about $200-250 for the fluid change and adaptation re-learn procedure, at least as of a few years ago.
#14
I spoke to Igor and he recommended a rebuild, he would do for $5,000 plus I would have to ship the car across the country and back. I just can't justify this...I wish I had done some research before buying this. Car is in great shape but I can't believe it is like a no win no matter how many people I talk to. Igor told me that if I put a used transmission in and have to take it to Mini dealer and they say there is a problem then what are you going to do. The same even with a rebuild if I installed myself. I think I am just screwed. I have never ran into this before on a vehicle and it blows! I guess I have no choice but to sell it or make a couch out of it.
#16
Looks like this is for a second gen (R56), so it will be different than the CVT in the first gen base Coopers, which is what this thread is covering.
Based on what I found, the factory fluid for your transmission is JWS3309, and the Febi fluid they put in looks like it is the correct fluid.
Based on what I found, the factory fluid for your transmission is JWS3309, and the Febi fluid they put in looks like it is the correct fluid.
#18
#19
Gknorr:
My friend has a 2006 mini cooper base model. CVT transmission. It has 82,000 miles, never change fluid and does not have issues. I was going to change it with Redline synthetic fluid. What is your experience?
I was told that if a transmission fluid has never been change, the old fluid will hold particles in place, changing new fluid will dislodge particles, therefore it can cause issues?
Thanks
Frank
My friend has a 2006 mini cooper base model. CVT transmission. It has 82,000 miles, never change fluid and does not have issues. I was going to change it with Redline synthetic fluid. What is your experience?
I was told that if a transmission fluid has never been change, the old fluid will hold particles in place, changing new fluid will dislodge particles, therefore it can cause issues?
Thanks
Frank
#20
Gknorr:
My friend has a 2006 mini cooper base model. CVT transmission. It has 82,000 miles, never change fluid and does not have issues. I was going to change it with Redline synthetic fluid. What is your experience?
I was told that if a transmission fluid has never been change, the old fluid will hold particles in place, changing new fluid will dislodge particles, therefore it can cause issues?
Thanks
Frank
My friend has a 2006 mini cooper base model. CVT transmission. It has 82,000 miles, never change fluid and does not have issues. I was going to change it with Redline synthetic fluid. What is your experience?
I was told that if a transmission fluid has never been change, the old fluid will hold particles in place, changing new fluid will dislodge particles, therefore it can cause issues?
Thanks
Frank
When I had the Redline fluid in mine, the shifts were smooth, and it seemed to work fine. My transmission ended up dying about a 1000 miles after the fluid change though. At 120k miles, I don't think it'd be fair to blame the fluid. However, I did not do the adaptation re-learn procedure after that fluid change, and that very well could have been the culprit that finally made it die. But again, many people have had it fail before that mileage, so it's hard to really pinpoint what the true cause was in my case.
All that to say, the Redline fluid should be fine, but I'd say if you want to be really safe, use the factory ESSO fluid. If you do change the fluid, you MUST reset the adaptations and do the proper adaptation and clutch re-learn procedure. Don't take a chance not doing it like I did. You need to have the BMW software (INPA) to reset the adaptations.
Given my own experiences, the CVT fluid change is one of the few things I recommend just having the dealer do. I had my dealer do it once, and the cost was around $200, including the Esso fluid (which was probably a little less than half that amount) and labor. You get the factory fluid and they take care of the adaptation relearn procedure, and fluid level checking, which requires the fluid to be at a high enough temperature, and loosening the top fill plug. It's not has straight forward as on many more conventional auto transmissions.
#21
gknorr:
Since my last post regarding my 05 mini cooper s Aisin automatic transmission.
1. when it is cold, transmission shifts fine.
2. After warm up, slips 1-2, and 2-3.
3. Have changed oil multiple times and adaptation.
4. Research that it might be valve body issue?
5. ordered a re-manufactured valve body from Revmax.
6. installed by Brracing in Palo alto. (great shop)
7. with new vale body, even when it is cold, slips 1-2 and 2-3, If slowly accelerate, able to shift, but not smooth?
8. EP code on dash on re-mauf. valve body. I did not have that code before.
9. Called Revmax, (Frank from Revmax said it happens, they only test the valve body and not re-build?) He said he would send solenoid to test, never received. He blamed it on the torque converter?
10. Car is sitting in the garage, seems like my re-manuf. valve body is worst than my original? wasted 700 + 1000 for the job?
11. I am thinking about re-building my original valve body and replace all the solenoids, Brracing recommend this approach, since he has success with this method.
12. Wanted to get some input before i make a decision. any comment would be appreciated, My wife like to keep the car, it is in great shape, 70,000 miles.
Thanks
Frank Sheng
Since my last post regarding my 05 mini cooper s Aisin automatic transmission.
1. when it is cold, transmission shifts fine.
2. After warm up, slips 1-2, and 2-3.
3. Have changed oil multiple times and adaptation.
4. Research that it might be valve body issue?
5. ordered a re-manufactured valve body from Revmax.
6. installed by Brracing in Palo alto. (great shop)
7. with new vale body, even when it is cold, slips 1-2 and 2-3, If slowly accelerate, able to shift, but not smooth?
8. EP code on dash on re-mauf. valve body. I did not have that code before.
9. Called Revmax, (Frank from Revmax said it happens, they only test the valve body and not re-build?) He said he would send solenoid to test, never received. He blamed it on the torque converter?
10. Car is sitting in the garage, seems like my re-manuf. valve body is worst than my original? wasted 700 + 1000 for the job?
11. I am thinking about re-building my original valve body and replace all the solenoids, Brracing recommend this approach, since he has success with this method.
12. Wanted to get some input before i make a decision. any comment would be appreciated, My wife like to keep the car, it is in great shape, 70,000 miles.
Thanks
Frank Sheng
#22
gknorr:
Since my last post regarding my 05 mini cooper s Aisin automatic transmission.
1. when it is cold, transmission shifts fine.
2. After warm up, slips 1-2, and 2-3.
3. Have changed oil multiple times and adaptation.
4. Research that it might be valve body issue?
5. ordered a re-manufactured valve body from Revmax.
6. installed by Brracing in Palo alto. (great shop)
7. with new vale body, even when it is cold, slips 1-2 and 2-3, If slowly accelerate, able to shift, but not smooth?
8. EP code on dash on re-mauf. valve body. I did not have that code before.
9. Called Revmax, (Frank from Revmax said it happens, they only test the valve body and not re-build?) He said he would send solenoid to test, never received. He blamed it on the torque converter?
10. Car is sitting in the garage, seems like my re-manuf. valve body is worst than my original? wasted 700 + 1000 for the job?
11. I am thinking about re-building my original valve body and replace all the solenoids, Brracing recommend this approach, since he has success with this method.
12. Wanted to get some input before i make a decision. any comment would be appreciated, My wife like to keep the car, it is in great shape, 70,000 miles.
Thanks
Frank Sheng
Since my last post regarding my 05 mini cooper s Aisin automatic transmission.
1. when it is cold, transmission shifts fine.
2. After warm up, slips 1-2, and 2-3.
3. Have changed oil multiple times and adaptation.
4. Research that it might be valve body issue?
5. ordered a re-manufactured valve body from Revmax.
6. installed by Brracing in Palo alto. (great shop)
7. with new vale body, even when it is cold, slips 1-2 and 2-3, If slowly accelerate, able to shift, but not smooth?
8. EP code on dash on re-mauf. valve body. I did not have that code before.
9. Called Revmax, (Frank from Revmax said it happens, they only test the valve body and not re-build?) He said he would send solenoid to test, never received. He blamed it on the torque converter?
10. Car is sitting in the garage, seems like my re-manuf. valve body is worst than my original? wasted 700 + 1000 for the job?
11. I am thinking about re-building my original valve body and replace all the solenoids, Brracing recommend this approach, since he has success with this method.
12. Wanted to get some input before i make a decision. any comment would be appreciated, My wife like to keep the car, it is in great shape, 70,000 miles.
Thanks
Frank Sheng
I think Revmax may be correct in suggesting that another possible culprit is the torque converter. Have you discussed the problem with a shop that specializes in transmission repair? If not, I'd definitely recommend calling a few shops to see what they think.
The Aisin box is a more traditional automatic transmission and transmission shops should be more adequately trained to diagnose and fix individual parts on that one. In contrast, the CVT in the base Coopers is fixable, but no shops will touch the internals because they don't have the training for it. That's why people end up having to put an entire new transmission in when that one has problems.
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